How do some of you get that pretty, completely filled, smooth coverage on your glassing jobs? I have used the Brownells acra-glas in the past and mix with the wooden tongue deppresser and try to apply it evenly with voidless coverage and have only been able to get ugly, stringy, coverage with open voids throughout?
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Glass Bedding
- Thread starter publius
- Start date
hoghunting
New member
You might be mixing it too vigorously and getting too many air bubbles. Or you are just not using enough Acra-glas. I mostly use the Gel when bedding.
Sounds to me like you are trying to just barely fill the space to be bedded. There is often a lot of room in a factory stock that needs filling for the job to be done right.
I usually mask off any areas I don't want resin on with good quality masking tape, use paste wax as a release agent on all exposed areas and metal parts, add floc or fibers to the resin before I add hardener and tap it on the bench to release as many air bubbles as possible, then mix the hardener in as smoothly as possible. I position the action screws in place so that all I have to do is tighten them as needed. I pour the mixture into the stock where I want the resin to be when I am done, let it spread by itself, then slowly put the action in place, and slowly tighten the action screws, making sure to wipe up all the excess resin that gets squeezed out as I tighten the screws. There are usually some small voids caused by bubbles, but no gaping canyons if I have done my part.
I usually mask off any areas I don't want resin on with good quality masking tape, use paste wax as a release agent on all exposed areas and metal parts, add floc or fibers to the resin before I add hardener and tap it on the bench to release as many air bubbles as possible, then mix the hardener in as smoothly as possible. I position the action screws in place so that all I have to do is tighten them as needed. I pour the mixture into the stock where I want the resin to be when I am done, let it spread by itself, then slowly put the action in place, and slowly tighten the action screws, making sure to wipe up all the excess resin that gets squeezed out as I tighten the screws. There are usually some small voids caused by bubbles, but no gaping canyons if I have done my part.
Buzzard Bait
New member
yea
i use play dough for damming up where I don't want it to go and jb weld is my favorite bedding material but I have seen pics of some beautiful work that makes me wonder if they mill or somehow cut the edges smooth
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i use play dough for damming up where I don't want it to go and jb weld is my favorite bedding material but I have seen pics of some beautiful work that makes me wonder if they mill or somehow cut the edges smooth
bb
There are certain applications that Acurglass works well because it flows, such as filling cracks.
For most of my work I prefer two part epoxies that have the consistency of peanut butter.
Marine Tex works well. You can find this in Marine Boating stores.
AcuraGlass gel is good.
I have outstanding success with the Devcon Stainless Steel Putty and Aluminum putty. Once these harden you have to grind them out. Rock hard.
Bisonite works well in certain applications. During its exothermic stage it flows then it thickens. Bisonite is as rock hard as Devcon once it cures.
For most of my work I prefer two part epoxies that have the consistency of peanut butter.
Marine Tex works well. You can find this in Marine Boating stores.
AcuraGlass gel is good.
I have outstanding success with the Devcon Stainless Steel Putty and Aluminum putty. Once these harden you have to grind them out. Rock hard.
Bisonite works well in certain applications. During its exothermic stage it flows then it thickens. Bisonite is as rock hard as Devcon once it cures.
Last edited:
Quick Karl
Moderator
Try using Marine Tex - you can look it up on Google to see how many rifle builders use it.