wachtelhund1
New member
Hi, Recently there have been a few post mentioning the Winchester model 100 as alternative to modern semi-auto hunting rifles. I have used several Win 100's for deer hunting for many decades. These are my go to deer hunt rifles, and I have many guns. The one most often carried is a 100 carbine.
Some have knock them for not being the most accurate rifle. Glass bedding the Win 100 will reduce its groups to half their size. Many years ago I found some instructions, written by another individual, on how to glass bed Win 100. The bedding process is not like a bolt action rifles, in that it must be glass bedded in a five step process. Over the years I've posted this info here twice. For those new individuals new to the Win 100, I'm going to post it again.
The bedding procedure takes time and is done in a five step process. The original poster of this procedure is tbailey.
Bedding the Winchester Model 100 is a real project because of its unusual action. If you need to identify the "exact" parts I'm referring to, you can look them up on a Exploded Drawing drawing diagram.
- Win model 100 Bedding Process
1.) The first step is to bed the recoil block in place - in a separate operation. This is done with the recoil block screw loose. This screw just has to be there to locate its permanent location in a way that won't allow the recoil block to flex the action when your finished.
2.) Bed the front tip of the stock (for about 1"). This will locate the front of the barrel, so that you'll know exactly where it will end up when you're finished. This step just provides a temporary saddle that will be ground away later.
3.) Bed the trigger guard in place (only necessary on the ends) around the screws.
4.) Cut away about 1/8" of wood from the stock under the barrel (just in front of the gas tube) and bed the barrel to the stock for the next 4". After it cures, separate the barrel from the stock, and grind away the temporary saddle made in step #2.
5.) The receiver needs to be bedded on both sides, along the bottom rear 2.5" along its lower edge, and about 3/8" up each side. Also, skin bed the small contact surface of the barreled action (only around the take down screw).
6.) Be sure that the operating rod guide assembly is absolutely free from any binds, or you will wind up creating a real jammer that will drive you crazy. The operating rod guide assembly should also be deburred along the outer surfaces and lightly oiled.
7.) You can then experiment with "tension bedding" by a adding paper shim to the metal-to-metal contact surface of the recoil block. This "flashback" will get you into shooting the best groups that you've ever seen from any Winchester Model 100. Good luck ....
Well, that's it. If you're looking for your groups to tighten up with the Winchester Model 100, that's how it's done.
I have one other tip to eliminate jamming. I've replaced the factory extractor spring with a slightly stronger spring. This spring is very small, I went through my gunsmiths spring box to find one with the right diameter, but stronger (stiffer). Cut it a few hundredths longer and stuffed it into the extractor. The stronger spring causes the extractor to provide a firmer hold on the case during extraction. The ejector will then throw the case further and with more force from the gun. Keep your Win 100 clean and you will never have a jam!
Some have knock them for not being the most accurate rifle. Glass bedding the Win 100 will reduce its groups to half their size. Many years ago I found some instructions, written by another individual, on how to glass bed Win 100. The bedding process is not like a bolt action rifles, in that it must be glass bedded in a five step process. Over the years I've posted this info here twice. For those new individuals new to the Win 100, I'm going to post it again.
The bedding procedure takes time and is done in a five step process. The original poster of this procedure is tbailey.
Bedding the Winchester Model 100 is a real project because of its unusual action. If you need to identify the "exact" parts I'm referring to, you can look them up on a Exploded Drawing drawing diagram.
- Win model 100 Bedding Process
1.) The first step is to bed the recoil block in place - in a separate operation. This is done with the recoil block screw loose. This screw just has to be there to locate its permanent location in a way that won't allow the recoil block to flex the action when your finished.
2.) Bed the front tip of the stock (for about 1"). This will locate the front of the barrel, so that you'll know exactly where it will end up when you're finished. This step just provides a temporary saddle that will be ground away later.
3.) Bed the trigger guard in place (only necessary on the ends) around the screws.
4.) Cut away about 1/8" of wood from the stock under the barrel (just in front of the gas tube) and bed the barrel to the stock for the next 4". After it cures, separate the barrel from the stock, and grind away the temporary saddle made in step #2.
5.) The receiver needs to be bedded on both sides, along the bottom rear 2.5" along its lower edge, and about 3/8" up each side. Also, skin bed the small contact surface of the barreled action (only around the take down screw).
6.) Be sure that the operating rod guide assembly is absolutely free from any binds, or you will wind up creating a real jammer that will drive you crazy. The operating rod guide assembly should also be deburred along the outer surfaces and lightly oiled.
7.) You can then experiment with "tension bedding" by a adding paper shim to the metal-to-metal contact surface of the recoil block. This "flashback" will get you into shooting the best groups that you've ever seen from any Winchester Model 100. Good luck ....
Well, that's it. If you're looking for your groups to tighten up with the Winchester Model 100, that's how it's done.
I have one other tip to eliminate jamming. I've replaced the factory extractor spring with a slightly stronger spring. This spring is very small, I went through my gunsmiths spring box to find one with the right diameter, but stronger (stiffer). Cut it a few hundredths longer and stuffed it into the extractor. The stronger spring causes the extractor to provide a firmer hold on the case during extraction. The ejector will then throw the case further and with more force from the gun. Keep your Win 100 clean and you will never have a jam!