getting carbon deposits out of .357 chambers

stevieboy

New member
I'm like many of this Forum's members, I often fire .38 specials from my .357 magnum revolvers. That's fine, except that there's a tendency for rings of carbon to build up in the chambers at the point where the .38 shell casing ends and the bullet begins. And, that can cause a problem for subsequent chambering of .357 rounds due to the narrowing of the chambers and the resulting pressure increase brought about by that.

Cleaning the carbon out has been an ongoing issue for me ever since I started shooting. I've tried literally dozens of methods, many of them suggested by Forum members. Some of them worked, some didn't, and at least for me, none of them were easy and quick.

However, yesterday, I hit on a solution that was so mind-bendingly simple that I was stunned at my failure to think of it sooner. I was buying gun cleaning supplies and, as I selected a .38/.357 chamber brush the thought occurred to me, why not try a .40 caliber chamber brush instead? So, I bought a brush in .40, brought it home and proceeded to brush out the chambers of my carbon-fouled Model 66. The results were instant, brushing each chamber for only a few seconds with the larger diameter brush removed all of the carbon deposits. A quick, easy, and painless solution to a problem that I've wrestled with for years. Just thought I share this information.
 

aarondhgraham

New member
Now we must hate you a little stevieboy,,,

A quick, easy, and painless solution to a problem that I've wrestled with for years.

If you would have given me just one more day I would have come up with that solution as well. :rolleyes:

Nice idea my friend,,,
I'm gonna try it out myself.

.
 

Buzzcook

New member
I read a post about belling out a .357 case to scrape out the build up. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounded like a good idea.
 

"JJ"

New member
Thanks for sharing! I'll pick one up this week & give it a shot myself. It can't do any worse than the .38/.357 brush!:( I felt like I was boreing out a cylinder block!
 

Doogle

New member
Another easy way (for stainless revolvers) is to use Lead Away cloths...>

...or similar. Used as patches they clean out the fouling quickly.

Not for use on blued guns.
 

461

New member
Been doing that for years. Though I have to say that I've never really had an issue with chamber cleaning after firing .38 Spl, or .44Spl, or .32 Longs etc, etc. From the number of threads about this you'd think it was an issue of epic proportions.
 

"JJ"

New member
Oops, sorry Stevieboy, you don't get the reward money for coming up with the idea.
Sorry:(


Ok sarcasm off:

I don't think he was claiming to have re-invented the wheel here guys.
Or even being the first to try it.
Infact, he mentioned that is was so simple he should have thought of it before.

I would guess there are a bunch of folks on here who have developed methods to deal with the every day little snags that trip me up now & then.
And it is possible that in a few years, I may come up with the great solution on my own.
But it sure is nice when someone stumbles across a short cut & decides to share!;)
Thanks stevieboy
 

madmag

New member
Like others, I have used over-sized bore brushes for years to help clean .357 with the .38 spl. carbon ring. In fact, I use a low speed drill to turn my brush when it's wet with bore cleaner. The problem is that I find that even this does not get rid of all the carbon ring. It can be removed using more polishing like with lead out cloth etc.

But I guess the question is is it necessary to go past the point where .357 mags. will chamber OK? I doubt it's worth the effort. So as long as my chambers are clean enough to freely chamber .357 mags. ...then I am good to go.
 

roaddog28

New member
Hi,
I have had the same problem cleaning the carbon rings out of my Ruger Police Service Six. My solution is to used only 357s in all my revolvers including my Smith K frame magnums. But I will try Stevie Boys suggestion. I have a 40 S&W semi-auto and I will try a brush from the kit.

Regards,
roaddog28
 

SH007

New member
Add a bit of J-B Bore Paste from Brownell's and it really cuts down on the physical effort.

Clean cylinder chambers makes for a happy revolver

;)
 

mikejonestkd

New member
Like others have mentioned, I also use a .40 cal brush and a cordless drill, running SLOWLY with powder solvent and then let it sit for a few minutes. The fouling rings break up nicely and easily this way.
 

Snobal

New member
I've been using .40 caliber brushes for regular .357 cylinder cleaning for the past few years. It quickly removes the lead ring from shooting cast bullets from .357 cases. I quit using .38 cases for my target loads because I get excellent target accuracy with .357 cases.

Shooting either .38 or .357 cases and cast bullets leaves a ring which (in my humble opinion) should be removed prior to shooting factory loaded .357 ammo (or full charge home-loads).

When I come across a really .38-fouled .357 cylinder, I use the "belled .357 case" cleaning method.

I bell some old .357 cases, then lightly trim them to give them a nice sharp "burr" on the outer edge. I do not "de-burr" the cases.

It takes some adjustment of the belling to get them to exactly fit the inside of the cylinder walls, but when everything is "right," a push or two into each cylinder hole will remove the .38 Special lead ring instantly. Then the .40 brush works great to finish the job.:D

Our local gunsmith suggested the cordless drill to spin the .40 brush, but since just a few passes by hand works fine, I've not tried it.

A gunsmith friend suggested JB Bore Compound to me when I started shooting back in the 1960's. Been using it since with no problems. I have read where some shooters "freak" at the thought of using an abrasive in their bore, but I have not noticed any problems. But to keep this is perspective, I'm on my second container of JB Bore Compound since the 1960's. A little of that stuff goes a very long ways.;)

JMHO - YRMV
 
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Elvishead

Moderator
WARNING!

I tried that with a S&W Sigma (Semi) 9mm (.355") barrel using a 40cal brush, and a CZ75 9mm.

I swear I could feel the barrel bulge slightly as I was "white knuckling" it through the barrel.

I stopped using it ASAP.

What does that tell you?
 
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BillCA

New member
I guess no one here shoots an AR/M16 platform a lot.
There's a product called Slip 2000 that's a carbon remover. Works fine.
Let the cylinder soak in it or slather some on with a soaked patch and wait about 3 minutes. Most of the carbon flushes away.
 

Standing Wolf

Member in memoriam
On the theory it's easier to avoid a problem than solve it, I started loading .38 special loads in .357 magnum cartridge cases roughly 40 years ago. I've never encountered a problem.
 
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