Garand: Setting Battlesight Zero at 25 yards

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Bruegger

New member
I’ve got a “new” (1943 manufacture) Danish Garand that I need to zero. In the Corps, I zeroed my M16A2 at 36 yards for a 300 yard BZO. I’d like to do the same sort of thing for my M-1. I suspect the near-Zero would be pretty close to 25 yards for a 200 yard far-Zero.

Question #1: Using M2 Ball and with my rear sight set for “2” how many inches high or low should I be at 25 yards to make Point-Of-Aim and Point-Of-Impact coincident? I’m assuming this is with a center-of-mass, rather than 6 o’clock hold; if you are assuming a 6 o’clock hold, please state the size of the 25 yard bull that the answer is based on.

Question #2: if my rear sight is set to “2” – and assuming I’ve zeroed the sight – how many clicks down for a 100 yard zero?

Many thanks and semper fi.
Bruegger out.
 
A

Art Eatman

Staff in Memoriam
I ain't never done it thataway. I know that with a scope whose line of sight is roughly 1-1/2" above the centerline of the bore, dead-on at 25 yards for an '06 is about two inches high at 100 and near dead-on at 200. Give or take an inch.

For a Garand, then, dead-on at 25 yards would be pretty close to center at 100 yards. Roughly. That would then be low at 200.

On the standard sight, one click is one inch at 100 yards, IIRC. If you do a search here for "Garand Sights", you oughta find that particular item.

Dunno if this helps,

Art
 
B

Bruegger

New member
Art:

Many thanks. The search feature was down when I posted, but I'll try again this morning.

The Garand sights are as you said one click = one MOA and the 100 yard setting is two clicks (two MOA) less than the “2” setting (if it’s dead on at 200 and 2” high at 100).

Here’s what I got from the “Garand” email list on Yahoo:

Quote:
-------------------------------
“M2 [Ball] 2740 fps MV

300 yard zero (rotor set to 3)
@25 yards POI = 0.6" higher than POA (CoM)

POI @ 100= 4.9" above LOS
POI @ 200= 5.9" above LOS

Looks like you need 5 minutes and 6 minutes [Bruegger’s note: actually the 6” = 3 minutes at 200 yards] down respectively for these ranges.

I presume you're zeroing w/ the rotor set at 300. If set at 2 (200), Then you're complicating things a bit as I understand them. Better to zero using the desired 'zero range' indication on the drum. If you do so, I think the rotor will perform all necessary ballistic comps when you reduce range to 2 or 1.

1 minute drum = 5 clicks down for 200, and another click down for 100 (total of 6 from 'zero').” [Bruegger’s note: actually 3 minutes or three clicks down for 200 yards, and an additional 2 clicks down for 100]
-------------------------------

So it looks like I’d better zero for windage and elevation at 25 yards with the drum set at “3.” Then I’ll verify where that puts me at 100 and 200. I’ll report back when I’ve had the chance to verify in the “real world.”

Semper fi,
Bruegger out.
 
B

Bruegger

New member
"I'd rather go out and shoot it. ":D

Well, Mr. Weisenheimer, that's what I'm trying to do. ;)

The rear sights are seriously miscalibrated (there are like 20 clicks from bottoming out the sight to the "2" setting and the windage is all the way out to one side) and I have to set them for mechanical zero.

Semper fi,
Bruegger out.
 
B

Bear Flare

New member
I was taught to do it this way:

Set windage to mechanical zero and run the elevation all the way down. Now count up nine clicks on elevation. Loosen the elevation knob screw and turn it (carefully) to "2". This should be an approximate 200 yd zero. "Battle Range" is marked on older sights and is somewhat in excess of 275 yds if I remember.

When shooting for the first time, correct windage by adjusting the front sight. Loosen its set screw and slide it in the proper direction.

HTH!

Nick
 
U

usp40

New member
I think Bear Flare is on the right track.

My Garand is about 8 clicks up from bottom for battle zero.

Or at least you will hit the paper with the first shot
 
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