I did a search, but I just didnt get what I was looking for. Anway, I wanted to ask for some opinions/guidance on forcing cones and cylinder gaps on my revolver. I have a Taurus M44 (44 mag). Ya, I know its no high dollar gun, but it is mine and I like it. It shoots ok. My forcing cone is well....pretty rough to say the least. And I could have done a better job at the finish on it (if I had the tools etc.). So, is reworking the forcing cone something that I can do, or is that better left to the gunsmith? If so, whats the going rate? And whats the opinions on what degree to cut? Ive seen 5 and 11 degrees. I also looked at the cylinder gap, and it was .011. I dont think this is a big thing. I thought I read where the SAAMI max gap was .012. One last question...The throat dia in all six was .429. Is this too tight? I mainly use hardcast .430 (w/ gas check) and hardcast .431, sometimes jacketed .430. I cant measure the groove dia due to the last two inches are compensator. I am hoping someone can give me some opinions/guidance/education on these topics. Any past magazine articles? I did manage to find and Handloader issue from '02, but was looking for me. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
forcing cone and cyl gap ?s
- Thread starter whiplash
- Start date
Pathfinder45
New member
Try Brownell's....
Brownell's sells a kit for your barrels forcing cone. It's easy to use yourself. I'm sure you could slug your barrel somehow. Try using a round brass rod just a little smaller in diameter than your bore. tap a round lead ball, [get a box .430 or larger muzzle-loader balls], lightly lubed with re-sizing lube or STP-oil-treatment through the barrel. I've no doubt you could find a way to start it from the breech end if the compensator is really a problem. Neccesity is the mother of invention, you know..... If the groove diameter turns out to be larger than your cylinder throats you will want to ream the throats a little but you don't want them to be larger than your bullet diameter. Don't be afraid to ruin your gun; after all, it's only a Taurus.
You can look at it as a learning experience of what to do and not to do for when you buy an American gun.
I've done this myself to my Vaquero .45 with good results. And then there's plan B: Take it to the gunsmith.
Brownell's sells a kit for your barrels forcing cone. It's easy to use yourself. I'm sure you could slug your barrel somehow. Try using a round brass rod just a little smaller in diameter than your bore. tap a round lead ball, [get a box .430 or larger muzzle-loader balls], lightly lubed with re-sizing lube or STP-oil-treatment through the barrel. I've no doubt you could find a way to start it from the breech end if the compensator is really a problem. Neccesity is the mother of invention, you know..... If the groove diameter turns out to be larger than your cylinder throats you will want to ream the throats a little but you don't want them to be larger than your bullet diameter. Don't be afraid to ruin your gun; after all, it's only a Taurus.
You can look at it as a learning experience of what to do and not to do for when you buy an American gun. I've done this myself to my Vaquero .45 with good results. And then there's plan B: Take it to the gunsmith.
Dfariswheel
New member
If you decide to work on the forcing cone, FIRST, buy the Brownell's forcing cone plug gage and gage your barrels cone.
The critical dimension on a forcing cone is not the degree or "depth" it's the diameter of the outer mouth edge of the cone.
Some factory guns these days are already either very close or too large to start with.
In those cases, re-cutting only makes the problem worse.
Fair warning: You cannot "eyeball" the forcing cone, you have to actually gage it.
The difference between too small and too big is minuscule.
A possibly "safer" option is to just lap the cone with the Brownell's forcing cone lapping head and forget re-cutting it.
Also, the tooling COSTS.
A barrel/cylinder gap of .011" is right on the edge of too big.
Over the last years, even S&W has loosened up their specifications for gap. In the good old days, a gap over .008" to .009" was considered to be out of spec.
Over the years, most manufacturers have let it slide to the point where even S&W will say that .012" is Okay.
Here, the problem is closing a excessive gap.
WHERE NOTHING ELSE IS WRONG, this requires turning the barrel in a full turn and re-cutting both the barrel/cylinder gap and re-cutting the forcing cone.
On S&W type revolvers with a barrel latching lug, this may not be possible due to ejector rod issues.
Due to tooling costs and knowing exactly what to do and what not to do, I'd find a gunsmith I really trust.
The critical dimension on a forcing cone is not the degree or "depth" it's the diameter of the outer mouth edge of the cone.
Some factory guns these days are already either very close or too large to start with.
In those cases, re-cutting only makes the problem worse.
Fair warning: You cannot "eyeball" the forcing cone, you have to actually gage it.
The difference between too small and too big is minuscule.
A possibly "safer" option is to just lap the cone with the Brownell's forcing cone lapping head and forget re-cutting it.
Also, the tooling COSTS.
A barrel/cylinder gap of .011" is right on the edge of too big.
Over the last years, even S&W has loosened up their specifications for gap. In the good old days, a gap over .008" to .009" was considered to be out of spec.
Over the years, most manufacturers have let it slide to the point where even S&W will say that .012" is Okay.
Here, the problem is closing a excessive gap.
WHERE NOTHING ELSE IS WRONG, this requires turning the barrel in a full turn and re-cutting both the barrel/cylinder gap and re-cutting the forcing cone.
On S&W type revolvers with a barrel latching lug, this may not be possible due to ejector rod issues.
Due to tooling costs and knowing exactly what to do and what not to do, I'd find a gunsmith I really trust.
This might (is) be a silly question.......
Rather than turning in the barrel and machining....etc, etc....:barf: can you either (coz we are talking such a small difference) put a shim behind the wheel to reduce the gap (I heard you laughing!) or have a gunsmith weld on then machine down the back end of the cylinder? Or, just as stoopidly, can you order another wheel that is that teeny weeny bit longer? just a thort
Rather than turning in the barrel and machining....etc, etc....:barf: can you either (coz we are talking such a small difference) put a shim behind the wheel to reduce the gap (I heard you laughing!) or have a gunsmith weld on then machine down the back end of the cylinder? Or, just as stoopidly, can you order another wheel that is that teeny weeny bit longer?
just a thort Dfariswheel
New member
That doesn't work.
If you start trying to move the cylinder forward by any means, the head space of the gun is compromised.
Again, as long as nothing else is wrong with a revolver, the only way to correct excess barrel/cylinder gap is to set the barrel back one thread, which may not be possible with some revolvers with front locking lugs.
If you start trying to move the cylinder forward by any means, the head space of the gun is compromised.
Again, as long as nothing else is wrong with a revolver, the only way to correct excess barrel/cylinder gap is to set the barrel back one thread, which may not be possible with some revolvers with front locking lugs.