First time carrying ALL summer: Sweat=RUST! - Advice?

[MikeGoob]

I guess I thought a new modern gun like a Sig365 would be more rust resistant, or of course I underestimated how bad sweat can be. My magazine has bad rust, spots around slide release and pin are showing. Barrel seems fine and slide mostly, but Im asking about 2 things mainly

• How much of a "Deep Clean" is needed when seeing signs of rust/neglect -- Full slide disassembly?
  
• How can I future proof my gun from getting so affected by sweat? Constantly oiling it?

 

[TunnelRat]

Can you post pictures when you get a chance?

Light surface rust can be removed easily enough by covering the spot with a coat of gun oil and using a brass brush to remove the rust.


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[Mulebuk Mojo]

Mike, the Biggest factor in rust is if you leave your gun holster especially in leather. Deep clean is not necessary, just your basic field strip. Even if you don't shoot regularly give it a wipe down at lease once a year.

If you're in a high humidity area that plays a roll as well and the another key point most of the metal today comes out of China, sadly. And who knows how much pot mental they got in the mix right.

When you get home every day give the gun some air, keep it out of the holster even if it's Kydex.

 

[MikeGoob]

Pic attached-- I did wipe it down and worked in some oil but the magazine has the most damage, the rust got into the surface pretty good.

Also the mag release was ringed all around the edges with rust and pin in the back.

 

[MikeGoob]

The holster is kydex, and the screws got pretty rusty. If I oil them, wont they back out?

 

[Mulebuk Mojo]

Don't sweat the small stuff Mike. (no pun intended) That's barely surface. You'll get use it.


Carry on ..


Screws, try not to over think or over complicate. Find the right tension and blue tight them.

 

[MikeGoob]

Ok thank you!

 

[TunnelRat]

The holster is kydex, and the screws got pretty rusty. If I oil them, wont they back out?

Personally I would clean the surface rust as best as I can using oil and a brush, wipe them off, then reinstall. I wouldn’t leave them oiled. If you ever have issues with screws backing out blue Loctite or Vibratite can help.

As was mentioned if you find you get a lot of moisture then wiping the firearm off regularly can be an easy preventative, as is giving it a chance to dry off by removing it from the holster and wiping that as well.


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[Lima Oscar 7]

In no certain order:

Field strip your pistol. Disassemble the mags. Lay the components on an old towel. Spray them down with a good oil like Breakfree CLP and leave them lay until the lubricant starts to dry. Wipe down. Repeat the process for two or three days. Some use gun wax. I have only used BF CLP for 30 years. I was a Duck Hunting Guide for 7 years. I used this approach to keep rust-prone Remington 870 Express Shotguns from rusting and it worked. The Express finish would soak up oil. I will just keep re-applying it over a three day period. These shotguns bead up water like a freshly waxed car.

Use Kydex holsters not leather. Leather harbors moisture.

Wipe the pistol down with a light oil coating during summer months.

My Walther PPS M2 mags are prone to rust. I wipe them down monthly.

 

[Jim Watson]

Cops used to apply Turtle Wax to their blue steel .38s.

 

[MikeGoob]

Thanks for sharing what you learned!

 

[Lima Oscar 7]

The holster is kydex, and the screws got pretty rusty. If I oil them, wont they back out?

I don’t have an issue but I periodically check torque/fit on my carry holsters. Some may use Loctite. I was involved in a program where we developed a system to seal 5.56/7.62 case heads and primers with a Loctite variant impregnated with UV photo-initatora for Defense applications. Loctite aka anaerobic sealant residuals can stress craze/crack some plastics.

 

[Carl the Floor Walker]

I guess I thought a new modern gun like a Sig365 would be more rust resistant, or of course I underestimated how bad sweat can be. My magazine has bad rust, spots around slide release and pin are showing. Barrel seems fine and slide mostly, but Im asking about 2 things mainly

• How much of a "Deep Clean" is needed when seeing signs of rust/neglect -- Full slide disassembly?
  
• How can I future proof my gun from getting so affected by sweat? Constantly oiling it?

Thanks for the Info. I live in the Hot Humid South and never have seen rust on my mags (or EDC guns). I do not know if it is because they are stainless steel or I just wipe them down and clean often. I did just get a used Sig 365 and noticed one of the mags did have rust. I will check the Slide release as pin closely. Not sure why that is getting rust.
Will try and clean it off today. I will most likely just use Ballistol and a steel wool. Thanks for the heads up.

PS You might want to check the inside of the mags and springs as well. At least give them a good Cleaning. I use Ballistol Milk. 90% water and 10% Ballistol. Leaves a very fine coating of oil and makes them super slick. And dirt and gun powder to not attach to it.)Ballistol does not resinify

 

[MikeGoob]

So I should probably clarify--I really stress tested this gun. I sometimes had it against my skin under a T Shirt while camping, walking around in the heat. I think my biggest mistake was leaving it in the kydex holster the whole time. Perhaps also removing the mag would have revealed them to be wet with sweat.

 

[FITASC]

My spare mag in my nightstand got some rust spots on it; very humid where I live and even with the AC running, "stuff" happens. Wiped it down with some RemOil for now

 

[Forte S+W]

In the future, be sure to oil your firearm regularly, especially after it has been drenched in sweat. Some folks will disagree with me here, but I actually lubricate the slide of my carry guns regularly inside and out, yet so far have literally never had any rust on any of my carry guns, nor have they ever failed to function as some claim that firearms will if you "over-lubricate" them, which pretty much means putting anything more than a couple drops on the slide rails as certain owners manuals suggest, despite the fact that they were most likely written by folks who tested the firearms under laboratory perfect conditions, in which a couple drops on the slide rails is all that's needed for function, and corrosion-prevention is never considered.

 

[Carl the Floor Walker]

If you could post a pic before you try and remove the rust would be nice. Thanks

 

[MikeGoob]

Sorry Carl. I panicked as soon as I saw it and oiled it. Now Im thinking I have to take everything apart and reclean. :/

 

[Carl the Floor Walker]

Sorry Carl. I panicked as soon as I saw it and oiled it. Now Im thinking I have to take everything apart and reclean. :/

No Problem. Actually good. If if do take apart let us know what you find. If you break down the receiver you can inspect all the parts and check for wear and tear if any and replace small parts. Always nice to keep a gun in top shape.
If you do not want to break down the trigger components, which I do not believe you do, Just spray down with the Ballitol milk and blow out with a can of compressed air. I would not worry too much about this. Seems you caught it early and the gun has solid parts etc. How many rounds of ammo do you estimate you have shot through he gun? Have you ever cleaned out the striker channel yet?
Note: I will take my Sonic cleaner with Ballistol Milk and toss in a half dozen mags at a time. Super clean, and slick. Blow out and dry with compressed air. Saves a lot of time and keeps them in top shape.

 

[MikeGoob]

I've probably only shot 300 or so through this gun. I have switched the frame back and forth from the XL version, so I can do that again and take pics. I'm most hesitant about taking apart the slide.. --PS--regarding the ballistol milk... is adding water necessary? I can just shoot ballistol through it..?