First test with quality reloading .223

[LloydXmas250]

So I've reloaded .223 before but really more just plinking rounds. This was my first attempt to really figure out what my gun likes. First some notes on the gun. I'm using a 16" Stag AR. It's pretty stock, minus the Miculek brake I just installed and a YHM free-float forend. I have a Millet scope on top. Trigger is still the stock junk trigger.

Now I sighted in my rifle today with some Tula 55gr today, and like Tula is, it was pretty scattered. I just wanted to get sighted in so I could test groups. I shot with a bipod but I had an issue with it. My forend does not really set firmly into the curve where it's supposed to lay. When I tighten it to where it should be it actually loosens out of the stud. The only way it remains attached is if the bipod is very flimsy. I sandbagged the rear and shot prone. I was stable enough but when I replace the bipod (I would like to get some tips on a better kind for an AR, the Caldwell doesn't seem like it's going to cut it) it should get even better.

I was shooting Hornady 55 gr FMJ, not the most accurate loads but just what I have to start with. I loaded them over 22, 23, 24, and 25 grs of H335 on top of Winchester primers inside Lake City brass. While shooting I would wait 30-60 seconds between shots just to make sure the barrel was never ridiculously hot. I was concentrating hard on breathing and focusing on the crosshairs but I found that trigger is horrible. I purposely shot paper that I couldn't see my results on til after done shooting. I didn't want to see where I was hitting because sometimes it changes how I aim and I wanted this to be fairly unbiased. I truly felt like I really pulled some of the shots bad but as you'll see I didn't really pull as bad as I thought.

**I realize these groupings are not great but realize I'm at most an average shooter and these are my first attempts at accurate rounds through reloading. I'm sure I can get them even smaller with a bit more work and a new trigger**

It looks like I could see where I was hitting and was walking it up to the bullesye in these pics but I really wasn't seeing the holes, just shooting as best as I could. Although I got the best groupings with 23 grs, I feel like the 25 grs is the closest to being the best. Meaning, most were closer with just two the seemed to get away a smidge. Let me know what you guys think since I'm still pretty new at this. Thanks in advance.

 

[HiBC]

Tell me more about your YHM free float forend and how it does not fit right.Are you just talking about how the bipod fits the forend?
What barrel is on your rifle?Skinny M-4,Hbar,etc? Twist?

 

[Brian Pfleuger]

What distance are you shooting?

You probably want to wait a lot more than 30-60 seconds between shots for the best group. More like 5 minutes, minimum.

Your answer to a better bi-pod is Harris.

Also, when you get on to actual accuracy tests you'll want to use charges much closer together than a full grain. With a 25gr charge, you'll probably want to use .2 or .3 gr increments.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Sorry for the left out data. Shooting at 100 yds. It's not the forend that doesn't fit. It's that there's a rail underneath which doesn't allow the bipod to properly attach. I found this item http://www.impactguns.com/store/YHM-638.html which will give me the proper fit for the bipod.

As for the difference in charges I was just trying to get a real rough telling of what kind of grain amount shot best. Now that I see I shot 25 grains fairly well, I'll work up some really fine changes to further fine tune it.

23 grains was my best group, but looking at 25, it looks like I'm there and then just messed up on two.

 

[Doodlebugger45]

Do you have the capability of hanging 5 or 6 targets up at the same time where you are shooting? If you can, then this is how I would proceed. Load up 5 or 6 sets of 5 rounds using those same bullets and powder. Vary the powder charge in increments of 0.3 gr (that is approximately 1%). Start with 23.8 gr and do 24.1, 24.4, 24.7, 25.0 gr. Pin all 5 targets up side by side. Then shoot just one of the 23.8 rounds. Load up one of the 24.1 gr rounds and shoot it at the next target, and so on. Then go back and shoot your second 23.8 gr round at the first target, etc. This round robin method tends to equalize some variables such as barrel heating, shooting fatigue, weather changes, etc. But it does require a pretty big target stand of course. I use a couple old pallets that I prop up with a 2 x 4.

Those serious target shooters wait an incredibly long time in between shots for the barrel to cool. I don't have that kind of patience. I take 2 or 3 different rifles and maybe a revolver when I am shooting. I will take one rifle and shoot that first series of 5 rounds of different powder weights, then set it aside and do a different rifle, etc. I take my time in between shots, maybe a couple minutes at most I guess to load up each round individually, get set up for the shot and then actually squeeze it off. All told it typically takes about 3 hours for me to shoot 5 sets of 5 combos for 3 different rifles.

You have the makings of some good groups I think. You did right to start at very low powder weight and go up by 1 grain increments just to make sure they were all safe in your rifle. Now it's time to narrow it down to finer increments. For me, I tend to look at vertical separation of the shots more than the horizontal separation in terms of analyzing the accuracy of the load. I don't know this for a fact, but I think a lot of the horizontal variation is caused more by my shooting skills than the inherent accuracy of the load. When I see a combination that minimizes the vertical stringing, I tend to believe I am onto something good.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks Doodlebugger. That's some welcome advice. My next step was to get more incremental difference's in the powder and test that to see if I can hone in on the most accurate round I can get using these components. I had a large board and did hang all of these targets on at once but went through 5 of the 22 gr, then 5 of the next and so on. I'll mix it up next time. I'm shooting on open land so no worries of a cease fire or anything like that. I'll just have to come up with some more loads and find a nice day to go out again. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Snakedriver]

With 55gr Hornady bullets, H335 powder, LC Brass and standard Small Rifle Primer, my guns like 25.5 grains of H335 powder for the best accuracy and velocity. That load seems to closely replicate the performance of other similar factory ammo I've used.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Snakedriver, what gun do you have and what are your groupings like?

 

[Snakedriver]

In .223 Rem. I have a Bushmaster AR with 16" Barrel and a Ruger Mini-14 with standard 16" barrel. I get 1" groups with my reloads at 100 yards out of the AR and 2" groups out of my Mini at the same distance using my reloads..

 

[LloydXmas250]

Well I'll have to shoot for 1" out of my AR as well. Thinking about trying some 69 gr SMK to see if I can do even better just for fun.

 

[m&p45acp10+1]

I like using H-335 for 55 grain bullets in my Savage bolt action. If I do my part correctly it will shoot one hole groups at 100 yards without fail. I use 25.0 grains. Also I use the Winchester 55 grain FMJBT. The only differance I have found between them, and Hornady are, Honady cost at least $2 more per 100, and Hornady comes in a box, Win comes in a zip pac bag. Accuracy wise I have not seen a noticable differance.

 

[highbrow]

The 55gr fmj is your biggest limitation. They are not known for accuracy.

 

[riverwalker76]

You are severely limiting yourself in using the 55 gr. bullet! When I plink with 55gr. ammo I have the worst results of ANY bullet I've fired from my rifles.

Depending on your twist rate you should try the following bullets ....

1-9" Twist

45 , 50, 62, 68, 69, & 75 gr. bullets.

Notice I skipped the 55 gr.

The 55 gr. bullet was designed for the military for use in the first Eugene Stoner AR rifles intended for military use in late 1959. At this time it was the best alternative for the maximum energy to weight ratio down range at center mass. Instead of retooling all of the machines at Lake City ... the military stuck with the 55 gr. bullet up until early 2001 which is when Olin/ATK took over operations there. It's a bad bullet weight all the way around.

1-8" or 1-7" Twist

All of the above weights PLUS 77 , 79, & 80 gr. are optimal for this twist rate.

I can get 3/8" groups out of my home built custom AR-15 using Sierra Match King 77 gr. bullets and Vihtavuori N140.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks for the replies on bullet weight. It's helpful. Here's really what I'm going for here. I'm just new to reloading and I had these bullets available. I'm just trying to figure out how to go about working up accurate rounds. When I'm varmint hunting I'll be using 55 gr vmax, which as you can see by my groups is good enough for hunting. I'll go on to mess around with 69 gr SMKs next to see what I can really get it down too. I'm just taking baby steps. Also, the SMKs are a bit more expensive to be reloading right off the bat. I'm poor haha. Not really an excuse but I'm just taking it slow. Anyone have any good data using H335 and 69 gr SMKs?

 

[amamnn]

Another useful thing to know is the twist rate of the barrel--it will make a difference in choosing the most likely bullet weight (length) for the best accuracy, thus saving some time and money. A more stable platform than a bipod, even a Harris, is a good idea when starting to work up loads, and it is a good idea to know what the wind is doing, especially when using the lighter bullets............a spotting scope helps you see what is happening out at the target...............and lots lots more--in fact many books have been written on the subject........

 

[LloydXmas250]

My barrel is a 1:9 twist. So I goes from about 50gr to 70gr. 55 shoots pretty well. I'm going to try out some 62 and 69 gr SMKs as well.

 

[riverwalker76]

Sounds good. Just don't go above 75 gr. in a 1-9" Twist barrel. If you can imagine a wobbly football being thrown without enough spin.... that's what the heavier bullets do in a 1-9" twist barrel. They never 'go to sleep' and most end up tumbling out around 50 to 75 yards.

Also, for this AR ... DO NOT get the Hornady 75gr. AMAX. They have to be seated shallower than the AR platform's magazines will allow. A big headache unless you are firing 'one offs'. Just a friendly piece of advice.

Good luck.

 

[jepp2]

Don't know what you intend on your trigger, but if you want the reliability of a single stage trigger, Bill Springfield does a great job and has quick turnaround.

Bill Springfield

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks for the tip. I modified the springs and I'm going to test that out. I'll probably end up sending it in or just buying a new trigger but I thought I'd play around with it. Lightened the pull, we'll see if it still fires on Sunday. Thanks.

 

[RNG]

Greetings,
If your AR isn't going to be used for tactical purposes you may want to consider the JP reduced power springs to lighten things up a bit. ( http://www.brownells.com/1/1/7048-a...ing-kit-ar-15-spring-kit-j-p-enterprises.html ) Using just these springs should put you around 4-4.5 pounds. Polish the sear(lightly) using a dremel w/felt wheel and some jewelers past will get rid of the "grittyness". (http://midwesthuntingsource.com/index.php?topic=1998.0[12/21/2010 6:49:33 PM]) It doesn't take much so go slow, take your time, and don't get aggressive.

If you're looking for a decent inexpensive 2-stage National Match give the RRA a try. ( http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=43949/pid=19696/Product/AR0093NMK__154__2_STAGE_NM_TRIGGER ) Pretty good buy at $120.00. I'm using the latter in my RRA 18" Varmint and the former in my carbine.

Regards,
Richard