First or second Plane scope adjustment?

I've mentioned that I will be using a Vortex Crossfire 2 in 6-18x44 BDC Dead Hold scope, and I've been watching videos on using 1st and 2nd focal plane and that one of them will actually pull the reticle's mil mark slightly off true target while changing power. Now I'm no genius, but I need it in layman's terms on how to set it up and/or leave it alone, or am I just overthinking it?
 
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tangolima

New member
Dead-hold reticle has tick mark every 2moa at max magnification of 18x.

https://vortexoptics.widen.net/view...C_MOA_RS_I_RI_ST.pdf?t.download=true&u=7n75lq

The tick mark value is inverse proportional to magnification.

18x 2moa
12x 3moa
9x 4moa
6x 6moa
4x 9moa

You see magnification times tick value is always 36.

I have a 3-9x with duplex reticle on my Rem 700 in .30-06. To use the simple reticle to hold over, that's the technique I use. Adjust magnification to have the needed moa of the thick post.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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jmr40

New member
I zero my scopes set on the highest magnification. I tend to hunt with them on the lowest magnification after verifying POI at that setting. I've never had any issues hitting a deer, or deer size target out to 200 yards with a scope set on 2X or 3X.

With a SFP scope like yours the aiming points will be different at different magnification settings, but at close range (200 or less)) on the lowest magnification not enough to cause you to miss.

Those aiming points are only calibrated if you have the scope set on the highest magnification. If I need to take a shot long enough to need the other aiming points I just go straight to the highest magnification on my scope. Where they are calibrated, and where my scope is zeroed.

I have NEVER used anything in between. I have never fired a shot through any of my rifles with a variable power scope unless it was either at the lowest magnification or the highest. For me that is the simplest way to do it.

If I'm hunting and the opportunity for a close shot comes up I want the least magnification and the widest field of view. If the shot is long enough to need the other aiming points there is no disadvantage to just going to max magnification.

The only place FFP scopes are needed is for target shooters with scopes with very high magnification. There may be times where 32X is too much and 8X isn't enough.
 

tangolima

New member
For normal hunting (<300yd), a "battle sight" setting is sufficient. No hold over or dialing in is necessary. Just put the center of the reticle on the target. That's why a lot of hunting rifles has simple cross hairs or duplex, and the scopes have closed turrets that are not meant for dialing in on the fly.

Going beyond that adjustment to the POA becomes necessary. Holding over is quick and could even be more accurate. I don't have hunting experience, but 18x on a target that could be moving may not work well. Going down to 9x or even 6x may be better. Tick value will then be doubled and tripled.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Nathan

New member
I feel like your original questions are not fully answered….

Graybeard Classic said:
I've mentioned that I will be using a Vortex Crossfire 2 in 6-18x44 BDC Dead Hold scope, and I've been watching videos on using 1st and 2nd focal plane and that one of them will actually pull the reticle's mil mark slightly off true target while changing power. Now I'm no genius, but I need it in layman's terms on how to set it up and/or leave it alone, or am I just overthinking it?

SFP = Target gets bigger/smaller, reticle size fixed as power turned up/down. Reticle measurements good at one magnification level. See manual.

FFP - Target and reticle get bigger/smaller by same ratio as power turned up/down. Reticle measurements good across power range.

…..one of them will actually pull the reticle's mil mark slightly off true target while changing power….
That is wrong or a poor description.

With SFP, the reticle usually works at max power 18x. So, it is best to carry and shoot max point blank range style….no adjustment, or use turrets to adjust except on 18x where reticle and or turrets can be used.

Often times lower priced optics turrets can sight in but not reliably move to a new adjustment. Often times turning 1 moa past the new adjustment and back, then adjust to the planned adjustment can help. Then again, sometimes cheaper turrets blow up when adjusting too much. Vortex has a good warranty. Crank on them and hold Vortex accountable to a perfect adjustment through warranty.

I find 18x too much magnification for deer under ~500 yards, so maybe on deer the bdc is not helpful. It would be great on varmints.

Does that help?
 
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