First AR Advice

[LloydXmas250]

Well I made a deal with my fiance that I wouldn't buy another gun this year. But we never said anything about parts. I've been wanting to build an AR really badly and with my budget, buying pieces over the months of this year would work out really well.
I've been looking at all different types but I keep waffling. I really like Stag Arms. I've been referred to them by a few friends and gunshops locally. But I'm also not against buy different uppers and lowers from different companies. Any suggestions on companies and whether to stick with one or a couple? Also, I've seen people complain that company X's upper has a different color and finish to company Y's. Does that happen often?
My main question is on what type of AR to get. This is where I waffle the most. At first I wanted a 20" flat-top. Good accuracy and I can place on my own sights that I like. I figured I could turn it into a plinking, target, and varmint gun. But then I started looking at the 16"ers thinking it would be nice as a SHTF gun plus accuracy would still be good enough for target shooting and hunting. And now I'm kinda at a stage where a basic AR with all the regular accessories such as a carry handle and the basic front sight, in either 20" or 16". I really kinda like the look to it and I also base it off the fact that I really already have a varmint gun and probably don't need another.
If I were to get a basic AR, can the front sight be removed so I could put a different sight on it? Some that I've seen look like they're permanently attached. Also that plastic hand guard. Can it be removed to put on a rail? Or are these types of changes just basically a reason to get a new one? Lot's of questions, I know, but I really want to make sure about everything before I take the plunge. Thanks

 

[RT]

Uppers here:
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/AR15-Upper-Receiver-Groups-s/1.htm

 

[Brandy]

Buy a DPMS and

put a PACT gold trigger in it. You will be happy.

 

[d sage]

Just bought a S&W MP15 flat top used for under $800. It is perfectly reliable so far at 250 rounds and first time out the accuracy was good with .223 and a cheap scope, 3" groups at 100 yds and 12" groups at 250 yds. The iron sights are surprising accurate.

Assuming I have my facts straight (I 'm sure others will add to this if not) here are a few points you might want to consider:

Get a 5.56 gun. It can shoot .223, too. A .223 cannot normally shoot 5.56.

The front sight shares a frame with the front gas block. It's on with 3 pins. One for the gas tube and the other two to the barrel. The two to the barrel I understand can be very difficult to remove. You have to add another low profile gas block with either a flip up sight or a mount your sight on a new rail.

The front handguard can be replaced with a rail system, some are two piece and are direct replacement while others "float" and require the delta ring to be removed. Both are expensive.

A carry handle can be added, too. Also expensive but if you need it you need it. Seems like it puts any add on sight pretty far up in the air if that matters.

You can find tons of info on the web.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

My advice is to think about the features you want in great detail. Once you have your list of features, buy from whoever has those features at the best price/service point.

It sounds like you are still trying to figure out the "features" part of the equation though.

I am personally big fan of the 16" rifles. They are nice and handy and lighter as well. The only issue they have is less velocity, which means some adjustments (compared to a 20") if you are hunting larger animals or shooting past 300yds.

I also like flattops. You can always put a carry handle on a flattop. Going the other way isn't so easy. The only reason I've got an A2 upper at all is because I had one in the mid-90s when I was an "iron-sights only" kind of guy and I can't get rid of it without giving it away.

If I were to get a basic AR, can the front sight be removed so I could put a different sight on it?

You would have to replace the front sight base, which is also the gas block. There are several options for this (a railed gas block or a low-profile gas block that a rail system can fit over) but few of the options are as cheap and as reliable as the standard pinned front sight base.

Also that plastic hand guard. Can it be removed to put on a rail?

Yes.

I really want to make sure about everything before I take the plunge.

A good idea to be sure; but ARs are very research intensive. I've often thought about writing a "I want to buy an AR" basic guide; but the enormity of all the options and all the stuff you'd have to explain to make an informed decision...

 

[Dave R]

I would agree with your analysis that a 16" AR is a better SHTF rifle, for the reasons Mr. Roberts described so well.

I believe a 20" would be better as a varmit gun. The extra velocity will come in handy on the longer shots. And if you're shooting Paririe Dogs or Whistle Pigs, you might want a bull barrel. It will maintain a more constant temperature when you're shooting lots of rounds. A bull barrel will be heavier, but will hold zero better as it warms.

Also, give some thought to what twist rate you want your barrel to have. That's a function of what bullets you'll shoot more. For really heavy bullets (62gr +) you want a 1:7 twist. For lighter varmit bullets and general purpose bullets (40gr-62gr.) you'll want a 1:9 twist.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Thanks for all the quick comments. Like I said, I already have a varmint bolt gun so getting it in 20" or bull barrel, while I'm not ruling it out, is probably not likely. As for twist ratio that's another thing I've wondered about. Most .223 I shot is 55 gr. That's simply because I have my scope on that gun sighted in for that round and it's the easiest and cheapest for me to find. I would still be able to shoot the light stuff out of the 1:7 right? I assume the wouldn't be as accurate as 62 gr. but I'll be honest and until I start reloading I'm not too interested in the heavy expensive stuff.
From the looks of the comments I'm thinking a flat-top with a carry handle, I really like the looks of those. If need be I could take it off and put on a red dot or scope. Another question about the carry handle sight. Will any other front sight work with it or does it have to be a specific kind of front sight? Thanks

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

Most .223 I shot is 55 gr. That's simply because I have my scope on that gun sighted in for that round and it's the easiest and cheapest for me to find. I would still be able to shoot the light stuff out of the 1:7 right? I assume the wouldn't be as accurate as 62 gr. but I'll be honest and until I start reloading I'm not too interested in the heavy expensive stuff.

55gr will work just fine out of a 1:7. I think kraigwy has a chart of the dispersion difference at 275yds between 55gr in a 1:7 and 55gr in a 1:12. It was around 0, IIRC.

Another question about the carry handle sight. Will any other front sight work with it or does it have to be a specific kind of front sight?

You just need the sight to be the proper height. For a fixed, pinned front sight base, this means either an F-marked front sight base (designed for flattops) or a taller sight post in a rifle front sight base. Otherwise, you just get the proper height rail mounted sight (if you go that route - one height for railed gas blocks, a different height for rail handguards).

 

[LloydXmas250]

Is it simple to make sure both the carry handle sight will match up with a flip sight? Or should I just get the regular front sight? Also, I see some pics with some ARs that have that front sight and a scope or red dot. How does it not impede with the optics? The scope and red dot were both mounted low and looking right into the sight.

 

[Quentin2]

Is it simple to make sure both the carry handle sight will match up with a flip sight? Or should I just get the regular front sight? Also, I see some pics with some ARs that have that front sight and a scope or red dot. How does it not impede with the optics? The scope and red dot were both mounted low and looking right into the sight.

Well it's not simple but can be done easily if you are careful. As Bartholomew Roberts was saying, there are F-marked front sight bases and the shorter A2 style FSB. Something else to consider, there are two kinds of removeable carry handle, the Colt/milspec type and the shorter one Bushmaster/ArmaLite/DPMS and other sell. The F-marked front sight base is 0.04" taller than the A2 and the Colt carry handle is 0.04" taller than the "BAD"s (pun intended!). So go with the taller sights front and back or get the $5 taller (0.04" of course) Bushmaster front sight post if you end up with an A2 FSB with a tall carry handle.

Now for flip up front sights instead of those mentioned above, you have to make sure how tall they are and whether they mount on a railed gas block or railed handguards. The gas block is lower so needs a taller sight.

If you think you'll want to replace a fixed FSB then just buy an upper receiver that comes with a railed gas block or low profile (if you're going to rail mount). Sometimes these are called OR or optics ready. Personally, I'd recommend getting a standard F-marked FSB and a milspec removeable carry handle so they are the proper height. Then you're much more likely to be able to switch to third party replacements later. And if you use a 3x or more scope the front sight usually does not get in the way of the optic (because of the telephoto effect - like in a telephoto camera lens vs. wide-angle).

 

[WhyteP38]

B.R. is giving you a lot of good info. I would also add that you would be well-served by reading two books that discuss ARs in general and how to assemble them. Sadly, I cannot remember the titles, and my copies are buried in some packing boxes from a recent move. I remember the covers as having an AR standing vertically on a white background with a gridline pattern. I'm sure someone here will know the ones I'm talking about.

I'm not saying they are the best books on ARs, but they are a compact, quick-reading source that provides info on the parts and suggestions on what to consider for different purposes. In other words, good foundational info that should help you make an well-informed decision.

Also cruise m4carbine.net. LOTS of good info there. That's what I did before I built one of my ARs, and I am 100% pleased with the result.

 

[Quentin2]

I should have added in my post above that for a red dot and other optics with no magnification that you may see the front sight but that can be useful since you can cowitness with the optic and the iron sights. But with magnified optics (3x and above) the front sight will disappear from your field of view.

 

[LloydXmas250]

Again, thanks for the comments and advice. As I'm getting the advice I'm wondering new things. One in particular is pre-ban parts. On MidwayUSA.com, I saw a DPMS upper that is called pre-ban. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=999919. My question is what does that exactly entail? This can't be a part that was made before a ban right? I feel that those would be sold already. I'm in California so I need an upper without a flash hider. This is why I am asking. Also, does anyone know a place that specifically sells CA ready parts? Every company's site shows products with flash hiders and lowers without the bullet-buttons. Will these companies have CA legal AR parts?

 

[Sharkee]

I built mine by buying a Stag Arms bare lower then assemblying it with parts I aquired as I went along. I wanted a lefthanded gun so I bought a Stag Arms
2HTL ( Lefthanded flattop with Samson star quad rail and A.R.M 40L/front post sights)

 

[Palmetto-Pride]

One thing you could always do if you decided you wanted to get rid of the front sight is just to cut it off with a dremal tool or even a hack saw it wont hurt anything and is much easier than trying to replace the FSB. Then you could put a full lenth rail on it and have the choice with flip up iron sights.

 

[Quentin2]

Again, thanks for the comments and advice. As I'm getting the advice I'm wondering new things. One in particular is pre-ban parts. On MidwayUSA.com, I saw a DPMS upper that is called pre-ban. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=999919. My question is what does that exactly entail? This can't be a part that was made before a ban right? I feel that those would be sold already. I'm in California so I need an upper without a flash hider. This is why I am asking. Also, does anyone know a place that specifically sells CA ready parts? Every company's site shows products with flash hiders and lowers without the bullet-buttons. Will these companies have CA legal AR parts?

Preban just means the new parts/rifle are made like they were "preban", so they have features that were banned by federal law from 1994-2004. You'll also see "ban" or "post-ban" or "compliant" which should be the parts you'd need. I would expect you can find an upper that is CA compliant but haven't looked myself.