Finally a .308

PolarFBear

New member
I've loaded for hand guns, from .32 up to 50AE, for 25 years. But, FINALLY got a rifle I've always wanted: Springfield M1A1 Scout in .308. I do load for a Moisin Nagant and 303 British but I could use guidance on high performance rifle loading. Yes, I do have manuals and will research them. Just inquiring of more experienced contributors.
 

Shadow9mm

New member
For a semi auto rifle I would recommend small base dies to help ensure feeding and reliability. RCBS makes a standard and an x-die set.

from what I have read the M1A1 is not the most accurate of rifles, so don't expect match grade accuracy.

the X-die is intended to eliminate trimming and you can use it like a regular full length die as well. if you want to use the x-feature after the first firing trim your brass to 0.010 below recommended trim length. then shoot like normal. After that size your first casing like normal, then lower the seating stem down until it touches firmly. then resize the rest of your brass and you will still have consistent neck lengths without trimming . same process after that for each batch. size the first normally, then lower the seating stem and size the rest. in all, you should only have to trim your brass 1 time.

I have found BL-c(2) powder to work well in testing and be reasonably available, but it needs a magnum primer to burn consistently.

Congrats on the new gun!
 

PolarFBear

New member
Thanks SHADOWMAN. I was not looking for a "target" rifle, just something that USN made me shoot. Heck, I'm now to old to shoot better than "minute of barn door" anyway. I hate trimming brass. Hand gun cartridges are easy. Rifle brass (.223/5.56) swage primer pocket, size, measure, trim, chamfer, bevel. That tip on the X-die will be heeded. Since I am only shooting in a single rifle can I get away with just neck sizing as I do in Moisin and .303?
 

Shadow9mm

New member
For semi auto guns my understanding had always been that full length is mandatory for it to feed reliably, and small base is recommended.

Also for semi auto guns I crimp firmly to avoid bullet set back. I highly recommend the lee factory crimp die as an addition to whichever dies you end up getting. they are inexpensive (like $13) and give a great crimp.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016833587?pid=448813

I looked into neck sizing when I got a bolt gun. However after watching Eric Cortina's videos on neck sizing and what the high end competition guys do, I left it alone.

Title: "STOP NECK SIZING YOUR BRASS!!!!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLG2kSrD40g

Title: "How do the best shooters in the World resize their brass for maximum accuracy?"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaqg4sJvg24
 
Neck sizing for a semi-auto risks having an out-of-battery firing event that can do serious damage. You want the cartridges to slip into the chamber easily. Whether or not that requires a small base die depends on how generous the chamber diameter is, so it needs to be tested.

Like a lot of service rifle match shooter's, I used an accurized M1A in matches for a number of years before giving in to the AR trend. It would hold about 0.7 MOA at 100 yards shooting the 168-grain Sierra MatchKings over any of several stick powders. You can do worse than the old Federal match load of 43.5 grains of IMR 4064 for that bullet, but I would use the CCI #34 primer to limit the odds of a Slamfire. Start with it down a couple of grains for the warmer primer and work up.
 

Bart B.

New member
Best scores and accuracy with both 30 caliber service rifles were with new cases.

Their bolt face was never squared up so fired cases had out of square heads. A sure detriment to accuracy.
 

Butzbach

New member
Slamfire warning

Not sure if you bought your M1A Scout new or used. In either case do yourself a favor and heed the single direct loaded round prohibition slam fire safety warning. It is well described in the documentation that comes with a new rifle.

You may also want to avail yourself of the knowledge an expertise on the M14 Battle Rifle forum https://www.m14br.com.

Basic accuracy improvements including shimming or unitizing the gas block, reaming your flash hider, and smoothing and lubing the front stock ferrule are inexpensive and worthwhile.

You’ll enjoy the national match sights that came with your rifle. Congratulations on your purchase and good shooting!
 

GeauxTide

New member
RCBS Small Based dies, 150 to 165gr Bullets, Varget, H4895, IMR4064, or your favorite medium powder, and CCI 41 Primers. Hornady X has separate loading data for the M1a, so be very careful with heavy loading. I have an M1a and the weak link is the long action rod.
 

44 AMP

Staff
My advice is going to run in a different direction than most here.

Its NOT a match rifle. Don't expect it to be, and I think its a waste of money trying to make it into one.

Forget all the advanced loading tips to get the nth degree of accuracy, and enjoy it for what it is.

I've been enjoying my "rack grade" M1A since he mid 80s, shooting only handloads duplicating GI ball, with no special tips, tricks or techniques. I'm not a match shooter, don't compete so all the "stuff" you're being told you "need" to do to increase accuracy if of little or no interest to me, though only you can decide for yourself what is, and isn't worth doing.

I load my .308s with the a Lyman die set I bought in the early 70s. Standard dies. I full length resize my brass and don't exceed max spec length. Other than separating brass by headstamp, that's all I do.

My rifle fits me well, and shoots better than I do, these days. With the shorter "scout" length barrel, you're going to get less than the standard 22" tube, but a good semi shooting .300 Savage speeds is nothing to sneer at.

Ball C2, W748, and any but the slowest IMR powder all work well. Shoot the GI 150/147s at approx 2750fps +/- (22" barrel speed) this is the GI load.

If you want to shoot the heavier slugs, the gun will manage that well enough with suitable loads.

I will repeat the warning DO NOT, DO NOT put a single round in the chamber and let the bolt slam shut on it!!

The M14/M1A has a floating firing pin, and it DOES bounce off the primer when the bolt closes. The extra speed of the bolt closing on a chambered round could fire it!

some folks will tell you to use the CCI 41 primer (I think that the number) that primer is milspec cup thickness, and its not a bad idea if you can get them. I've been shooting my loads for decades using CCI 200s and never had a problem though there is a visible dimple in the primer if you eject an unfired round, none has ever gone off. Your gun, your call.

Expect the gun to perform well, for what it is, and don't expect it to be something it wasn't made to be.

simply put, if you want a match grade gun, buy a match grade gun. If you want a decent M14 pattern rifle with a short barrel, you got one.
Good luck. I've enjoyed mine and while I had a lot of "battle rifles" come ang do, I've hung on to that one for good reasons.

The fact that I was in the last class at the USAOC&S trained on the M14 rifle (and graduated second in my class, might have something to do with my fondness for the M1A. :D
 

PolarFBear

New member
44AMP. Thanks for the input. I am in YOUR camp. Wanted one since I "qualified" way back in '75 (Navy). Sold my polished stainless, never fired, DE 50, 50th birthday present for the Springfield funding. I'm 70 now! Can't shoot very well and am not a hunter. But paper targets had best beware at 100 yards.
 

std7mag

New member
PolarFbear,

Congratulations on your picking up your newest toy!

I should have bought one in the 80's!

My latest is a new M1 Carbine Paratrooper. Just starting to learn to load for it.

I did load & shoot a bit with my ex father inlaw's M1 Garrand.
What a hoot! Till the "TIINGGGG" of the clip flying out! Lol

Enjoy your new friend & be safe!

Std7mag
 

Bart B.

New member
I've seen several dozen slam fired cases from all three 30 caliber semiauto rifles.

All had fully dented primers. Proof the hammer drove the firing pin full forward into the primer as the rounds fired.

Increasing cocked hammer hook engagement fixed the problem. So did convincing owners to keep their trigger finger full back until the bolt chambered the next round.
 
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