Favorite threaded barrel for 10/22?

[taylorce1]

So I've bought a Silencer Co Sparrow and while it is being held hostage I need to get a couple of my rimfire rifles threaded. Looking at the price to thread a barrel I'm thinking buying a replacement for my 10/22 might be the answer. I've rebarreled a few Savage rifles and the 10/22 looks pretty straight forward, so I don't think it'll be much of a challenge.

So I'm thinking 16.5" heavy barrel since I have a target model 10/22, and so far the ER Shaw and Kidd barrels are winning. Anyone else have a recommendation? I really don't want to get over $250 in this or I'm better off cutting down and threading my current barrel.

 

[smee78]

I would go with a replacement barrel VS threading the factory unit. Are you going open sights or an optic?

 

[Mobuck]

One of the most consistent 10-22 barrels I own is a factory threaded sporter taper (skinny) take off. Considering the nature of the barrel/receiver interface, using a heavy profile barrel and then adding the weight of a suppressor is putting a lot of strain on the connection.
Unless you have some lofty expectations, spending a pile of money on a fancy barrel is throwing away $$.

 

[Sharkbite]

10/22’s are one of the easiest barrels to change. Ive had good luck with green mtn barrels

 

[Pahoo]

There are a number of smiths, doing this work

So I've bought a Silencer Co Sparrow and while it is being held hostage I need to get a couple of my rimfire rifles threaded

At a recent GS, there was a dealer/smith that will threads barrels for $99.95. I looked at his work and he guarantees it. Next time I run into him, I'll get his card. Threaded barrels are more than just a fad. There are a lot of ranges that are leaning toward them. …..


Be Safe !!!

 

[taylorce1]

Considering the nature of the barrel/receiver interface, using a heavy profile barrel and then adding the weight of a suppressor is putting a lot of strain on the connection. 

Well considering it has a 20" factory heavy barrel on the rifle already, I don't see how cutting off nearly 4" of barrel and adding a 6.5 oz suppressor is going add anymore stress on the rifle. The reason I'm considering buying a barrel is it costs $100+ to thread my existing barrel, and it's about $140 delivered for a new ER Shaw barrel the Kidd barrel is more expensive but it's sleeved aluminum and fluted.

 

[bbqncigars]

The black Kidd threaded Ultra Lightweight barrel on my 10/22 is a real tack driver with CCI Blazer, Standard Velocity, and Aguila Super ammo. The MiniMag doesn't group quite as well, but still pretty good even at 1.5 MOA. I've been happy with both of my Kidd products: barrel and exquisite single stage trigger.

 

[Mobuck]

"Well considering it has a 20" factory heavy barrel on the rifle already, I don't see how cutting off nearly 4" of barrel and adding a 6.5 oz suppressor is going add anymore stress on the rifle."
You fail to recognize that the "heavy barrel" wasn't part of the original design even though it's "factory". Does the HB already max the support strength of a "slip fit" interface? Is 4" of barrel 6.5 ounces? Why would one feel the need to construct a 22 with so much muzzle weight anyway? Heavy barrels on 22's are either a crutch to offset poor trigger control or a misunderstanding of the need for a thick barrel profile.

 

[jpx2rk]

I've got 2 10/22 with Feddersen barrels, both are pretty accurate with el cheapo ammo in the break in stage. A range buddy has a 10/22 with Feddersen barrel, and capable of cutting playing cards in half with Federal match ammo IIRC.

He cut one card almost completely in half (80% cut), and I finished it off the first time I ever shot his rifle. I just have not spent the time to find the ammo my 2 like as he has done.

 

[timpierce]

I have a Fedderson heavy, tapered barrel on my rifle. A 10/22 with kidd receiver, bolt, and trigger. I use a Gemtech suppressor. Very accurate shooting barrel.

 

[taylorce1]

You fail to recognize that the "heavy barrel" wasn't part of the original design even though it's "factory". Does the HB already max the support strength of a "slip fit" interface? Is 4" of barrel 6.5 ounces? Why would one feel the need to construct a 22 with so much muzzle weight anyway? Heavy barrels on 22's are either a crutch to offset poor trigger control or a misunderstanding of the need for a thick barrel profile.

I'm not going to worry about the barrel to receiver interface and how badly my HB stresses it. I'm not an engineer and I have no where near the understanding to calculate that, but removing 3.5" of barrel would lose around 13 ounces according to online calculators. A .920" diameter barrel fits my stock and that is what I'm going to put back in, it's just that simple.

I didn't use either of your reasons for buying a HB .22 rifle. I bought this rifle because it came with the upgraded BX trigger, the stock has a better design for scoping the rifle since it has less drop, the stock just feels better in the hand and on the shoulder than the traditional 10/22 stock, and the weight is closer to that of my hunting rifles than the regular 10/22. I didn't buy this rifle to carry afield hunting small game, it's strictly a range rifle to practice shooting from field positions and teach my daughter the same.

Now you have your reasons dmfor not wanting a HB 10/22, and I have mine for buying one.

 

[Mobuck]

" but removing 3.5" of barrel would lose around 13 ounces according to online calculators. A .920" diameter barrel fits my stock and that is what I'm going to put back in, it's just that simple."
Sounds like you're pretty much set on that. I will point out that if 3.5" of barrel weighs 13 ounces, the original 20" barrel weighs 4.64 pounds. Is it really that heavy?

 

[taylorce1]

You're right my math was off as I started with a 1.20" cylinder barrel and must have fat fingered a number, and I did add in too much weight loss for the threads. I pulled pulled apart my rifle and my barrel weighs 3.5 lbs and that puts me at 9.8 oz loss for 3.5" and roughly another .63 oz for threads. Still nearly a net loss of 4 oz buy using a 16.5" CM barrel if the Shaw is of similar weight. The Kidd barrel I like only weighs 30 oz so after adding in the suppressor I'd have a net loss of around 20 oz.

However, this tangent we're on was never the reason I wanted a 16.5" barrel. I didn't want to add 4.5 of length onto a 20" barrel with a suppressor. If I could I'd cut it back shorter to get back to a 20 overall length with suppressor, but that would require even more money and wait time and it isn't worth it to me.