Fair price on Smith 625 pre lock vs lock

Hunter2678

New member
Have a chance to see/hold a mint condition 625 (lock) version made in 2000 in 2 weeks & another chance at a pre lock 625 w 5' barrel that shows signs of more use however its out of state. This pre lock is said to have a small amt of sideplay and endshake by the owner but other than that is in great working order. The barrel end of the cylinder shows noticeable signs of endshake from the marks on it. I know the pre lock is the more desireable choice but I dont wanna have to rebuild it either in the near future.

Having a tough time figuring out which direction to go.
 
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Technosavant

New member
I'd go with the better condition one. If the pre-lock were a real collector's piece and in great shape, then no question, but the one in better condition is a better choice.

The lock seems to only present a functional issue in the superlight Scandium/Aluminum alloy frame guns firing really heavy loads (the 340 or maybe the 329 firing full house loads). It just doesn't present a problem for the steel frame guns at all. If it really bothers you, it's also easy enough to remove (I haven't bothered on my two guns with the lock, because it's not an issue with them). For a 625, the recoil impulse isn't that strong at all, and it isn't going to lock itself (I keep a lock key on my keychain anyway, but it's just never happened with my guns).

It sounds like you're looking for a shooter, so definitely get the one that isn't in bad shape.
 

Hunter2678

New member
Thanks for the input Techno,..yeah the only plus in my mind on the pre lock is it has a 5 inch barrel versus the 4 inch on the lock version, dont know if thats a real deal breaker over feel/balance/accuracy...The seller wants 50$ more for the prelock as well.
 

MrBorland

New member
I agree with Technosavant: Get the one in better condition. Don't sweat the lock. Shoot the beejeebers out of it. Then consider getting some accessories, and shooting matches with it. It'll put a smile on your face :)
 

Hunter2678

New member
Thats the grand plan MrBorland :)...do you think the difference between the 4 inch vs the 5 inch barrel is negligable? Miculek shoots a 4 incher right?

Getting back to my other question is $700-735 a fair price for the cleaner gun?
 
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stevieboy

New member
I used to own a 5-incher, now have a 4" JM. Both have locks, both are great guns. I was marginally more accurate with the 5 than with the 4 due to the longer sight radius, I suppose. But, both guns shot/shoot well for me.

My bottom line: I wouldn't be deterred for a moment by the presence of a lock. The 625 is simply a phenomenal handgun. As to price, I paid $650 for my JM, used, about 18 months ago, and thought that I'd gotten a very good deal. I'd say anything between $650 and $750 is market.
 

MrBorland

New member
do you think the difference between the 4 inch vs the 5 inch barrel is negligable?

Definitely "maybe" :rolleyes:. For general range use, I'd say the difference is negligible, for all practical purposes. When shooting in matches, though, the rules of the game may favor (or require) one or the other, but really not enough to not get the 4": IMO, a 4" 625 is the most versatile match revolver, and possibly most versatile match handgun there is.

Miculek shoots a 4 incher right?

Definitely "maybe":rolleyes:. A version of the 4" 625 carries his moniker, but JM's a pro competitor, and he'll use the ideal gun for whatever match he's shooting: He'd shoot a 4 incher in IDPA, but a 5" gun in USPSA. He'll also shoot 8-shot 627s in ICORE.

Getting back to my other question is $700-735 a fair price for the cleaner gun?

Yes, IMO. Even better if the seller can throw in some moonclips and possibly a de-mooner.
 

Technosavant

New member
$700ish for a 4" 625... I'd probably be on that one myself. IMO, the difference between a 4 and 5 inch barrel really isn't much at all; the N frame *looks* a little better with a 5", but that's it. Moon clips and a demooner are cheap enough, Brownells has them.

A new 625 will be a lot closer to $1000, and from the sounds of things, this one is pretty darn close to that.
 

5Wire

New member
Jerry Miculek's 4-in 625 has the IL, IIRC. I can't distinguish prices based on the presence or absence of the lock in my track and I doubt there is much of one, since it depends on how bad an individual buyer joneses for a pre lock model.

I do have a track on the the non JM 4-in 625, though, here it is:

Smith & Wesson 625 4-in Bbl Revolver in .45 ACP. Bluebook of Gun Values (32nd Edition) indicates between $480 in 95% condition and $725 in 100% condition for this gun. I have 48 recorded prices for this model gun from $400 to $789 over a period of 7 Yrs 8 Mos ending May 2, 2011. The average price as of that date was $551. No refurbs, no refinishes, regular sights. All represented as 95% or better. No distinction for import location or engineering revision, if any, no special editions, no distinctions for box, papers, tools. Current or last MSRP is $979. (NOTE this is a decrease in high end value from previous BBGV valuation. Only the 4-in JM model is evaluated and the absence of JM grips earns a 5% penalty.)

Note that the Average Price Trend is right about $680 as of May in the chart. Better examples would go for more, especially with box, papers, etc, (and without the IL?).

SW625201105.jpg
 

Hunter2678

New member
Ill check it out..primarily for range use, maybe even tune it up for competition..but the x factor is being able to police my brass w/out bustin my hide..
 
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shepsan

New member
Outdoor, your video review of the 625 is outstanding. I congratulate you for not only a clear and detailed commentary but a visually excellent presentation.

You have motivated me to obtain a 625.

Thanks.
 

PzGren

New member
The barrel end of the cylinder shows noticeable signs of endshake from the marks on it.

I do not fully understand this comment. I check endshake in a different way and cannot asses it by marks or the looks of it.
 

MLeake

New member
OP, in case you didn't realize, the comment in an earlier post about JM using the 4" for IDPA deals with 5" being above tue IDPA limit (off the top of my head, I think it's 4.25" for max barrel).

So the type of competitions you want to shoot may also impact your preference.
 

Smaug

New member
I don't think it'll need a tune-up for competition

If mine is any indication, the DA is very smooth and reasonably light. You'd want to have it tuned if you're going up against Ol' Jerry for speed records, but otherwise, it'll be fine.

The things for competition is the moon clips, which you have coming, a belt for holding them, and a holster. Get going on those things.

Not policing up brass is BRILLIANT. (I forgot if you handload, but if you do, it is even more of a great feature) There's nothing more annoying to me than shooting a 45 at the range, and having people walk all over the brass or sweep it into a corner or dump it into a bucket. It's also nice to have a whole load of clips loaded when you go to the range, and mooning & de-mooning can be done at home when you're not "on the clock". The only problem is I tend to burn through it faster, and the gun gets pretty hot, because it doesn't have as much time to cool down. Maybe that's why it has the full underlug; to dissipate the heat, hehehe.
 

MLeake

New member
Just bought a Colt 1917 recently; my first hands-on experience with moon clips. Two observations:

1) Half-moons are a pain; some don't line up as well with their opposite numbers as do others. I don't like them.

2) Full moons are great. However, with mine at least, I'd recommend a couple of tools. I used a socket screwdriver, without a head, inserted into the cartridge cases to pull them loose (the clips that came with the 1917 are TIGHT), and in hindsight it would have been nice to have some sort of dowel to hold the center of the clip while pulling off the empties. (Again, my clips are TIGHT.) My fingers were feeling abused after a range session.

And yes, it is very nice to not have to scramble around, picking out what is hopefully one's own brass.
 
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