Photon Guy
New member
If I want to exchange barrels on a Ruger revolver, lets say I want to put on a longer barrel, how would I do it? Would I need to take it to a gunsmith? Is it hard to do? Also, anybody know where I can get just Ruger barrels?
Exchanging barrels on a Ruger
- Thread starter Photon Guy
- Start date
If it's a Single action the work is quite easy using any good blank.
Douglas, Green Mountain, Pac-Nor and so on.
If it is a DA revolver you will need to get the barrel from Ruger, or maybe from Numrich if Ruger won't sell you one.
So you should tell us all what gun you want to know about.
Saying "Ruger" is like saying "Ford" or "Dodge". Ruger has made a lot of different revolver barrels since the 50s
Douglas, Green Mountain, Pac-Nor and so on.
If it is a DA revolver you will need to get the barrel from Ruger, or maybe from Numrich if Ruger won't sell you one.
So you should tell us all what gun you want to know about.
Saying "Ruger" is like saying "Ford" or "Dodge". Ruger has made a lot of different revolver barrels since the 50s
Bob Wright
New member
If the gun is a Single Action, i.e. Blackhawk, Super Blackhawk, Bisley or Single Six, swapping barrels is easy. Just unscrew the old one and screw a new one in place.
Doin it right is another matter, and best left to a qualified 'smith.
And, if the barrel is not original manufacturer's, make sure barrel threads are compatible.
Bob Wright
Doin it right is another matter, and best left to a qualified 'smith.
And, if the barrel is not original manufacturer's, make sure barrel threads are compatible.
Bob Wright
g.willikers
New member
Sounds like another if you gotta' ask, don't.
Photon Guy
New member
The specific gun Im talking about is a Ruger SP 101 in DOA. Now I know the regular SP 101 they make with different barrel lengths but if its in DOA from what I've seen they don't make it with a 4 inch barrel. It only comes with a 2.25 inch barrel from what I've seen and so I want to get a 4 inch barrel and change the barrels on it.
May not seem like much, just a barrel swap but if it was really that simple, wouldn't more ppl be doing it and bragging about it? 
There's more than a few gunsmiths that specialize in the Rugers. I'd be looking for one of them for the work and to see which of them may have a take-of barrel. It's not something Ruger will simply sell.
There's more than a few gunsmiths that specialize in the Rugers. I'd be looking for one of them for the work and to see which of them may have a take-of barrel. It's not something Ruger will simply sell.Check the Ruger website for the specific model's manual, download the manual. It wiil tel you in the parts list via *, usually part #1 if it can be purchased from Ruger or must be matched fit by Ruger. Just saw that this morn on my New
Blackhawk within their website.
Also, have only heard good things about Ruger's service. I'd feel confident letting them doing it and knowing most likely it will be returned in better condition and prolly damn reasonable $$.
Blackhawk within their website.
Also, have only heard good things about Ruger's service. I'd feel confident letting them doing it and knowing most likely it will be returned in better condition and prolly damn reasonable $$.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
I had a Ruger DAO revolver and wanted it converted to DA/SA. Ruger was wiling to do the work. My guess is they would also be willing to switch your barrel.
Bbls and other "key" parts are factory fitted parts only. Ruger also isn't a custom shop and thus won't alter any model to a configuration which isn't a cataloged variation.
Larger isn't always a no-go. Think...Plenty conceal much larger firearms with ease and comfort. Use a GOOD holster and belt and even those full size 1911's disappear.
Photon Guy
New member
I don't like snub nose revolvers I think they're ugly. And people do carry guns with 4 inch barrels or longer for CCW. Its not that hard if you know how to do it.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
I think the modification to make the hammer DAO is quite simple, bobbed or otherwise.
Most, myself included, believe barrel length actually has very little affect on conceal-ability for most common carry positions.
Most, myself included, believe barrel length actually has very little affect on conceal-ability for most common carry positions.
Photon Guy
New member
Bobbing the hammer is a good idea but aside from being better for concealed carry there are other advantages to having a DAO revolver. With an exposed hammer, if something gets stuck between the hammer and the primer it will render the gun non functional, that wouldn't happen with a revolver that doesn't have an exposed hammer.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Bobbing the hammer alone doesn't really make the gun DAO. DAO is an internal change to the hammer. I think it is grinding off a small nub on the SP101 hammer that is not externally visible. I'm not sure about that. Someone here probably knows for sure though.
I'd still call ruger and ask them. If it wasn't a part they had handy I don't think they would make the change. With it being a part they have on hand it would not surprise me if they do, especially if you indicate you want it DAO for some sort of safety reason.
I don't think the revolver I wanted them to modify would have ended up as a catalogued variant.
I'd still call ruger and ask them. If it wasn't a part they had handy I don't think they would make the change. With it being a part they have on hand it would not surprise me if they do, especially if you indicate you want it DAO for some sort of safety reason.
I don't think the revolver I wanted them to modify would have ended up as a catalogued variant.
From somebody who actually did it...
Doing barrel swaps on a stainless gun is trickier because your odds of ending up with damaged threads goes up. I bought a blued New Vaquero in 2005 brand new and picked blue because I knew it was going to be a major upgrade project over a period of years. (I didn't know the half of it at the time.)
Another key issue is "how tight do you screw it on" - too tight and you get a constriction right at the start of the barrel, too loose isn't good either. This can possibly be solved with "Taylor Throating":
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2008/08/does-taylor-throating-really-work/
http://rugerforum.net/ruger-single-action/51930-initial-testing-taylor-throat.html
I actually put a shorter barrel on, chambered in true 9mm Para (.355" instead of .357). I took a maximally weird take on it - I used a multi-part barrel in "Dan Wesson style". The core rifled barrel is fairly skinny and screws into the frame finger-tight. There's more threads at the barrel's end. A sleeve goes over the barrel (a section of seamless stainless 7/8ths inch motorcycle handlebar!) and then a nut goes onto the muzzle-end threads and compresses the outer sleeve against the frame, "stretching" the barrel. The barrel-to-cylinder gap is therefore easily adjustable and there's no possibility of a constriction at the start of the barrel.
I then added a groove into the muzzle nut and fitted a gas trap that can be spun by loosening some set screws that fit into the groove in the muzzle nut. The gas trap doubles as a front sight base and spinning it slightly is how I do windage adjustment.
The gas trap passes gas backwards through a copper line to act as the shell ejector power system.
Anyways. With this setup I avoided all the potential problems. It works great.
Doing barrel swaps on a stainless gun is trickier because your odds of ending up with damaged threads goes up. I bought a blued New Vaquero in 2005 brand new and picked blue because I knew it was going to be a major upgrade project over a period of years. (I didn't know the half of it at the time.)
Another key issue is "how tight do you screw it on" - too tight and you get a constriction right at the start of the barrel, too loose isn't good either. This can possibly be solved with "Taylor Throating":
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2008/08/does-taylor-throating-really-work/
http://rugerforum.net/ruger-single-action/51930-initial-testing-taylor-throat.html
I actually put a shorter barrel on, chambered in true 9mm Para (.355" instead of .357). I took a maximally weird take on it - I used a multi-part barrel in "Dan Wesson style". The core rifled barrel is fairly skinny and screws into the frame finger-tight. There's more threads at the barrel's end. A sleeve goes over the barrel (a section of seamless stainless 7/8ths inch motorcycle handlebar!) and then a nut goes onto the muzzle-end threads and compresses the outer sleeve against the frame, "stretching" the barrel. The barrel-to-cylinder gap is therefore easily adjustable and there's no possibility of a constriction at the start of the barrel.
I then added a groove into the muzzle nut and fitted a gas trap that can be spun by loosening some set screws that fit into the groove in the muzzle nut. The gas trap doubles as a front sight base and spinning it slightly is how I do windage adjustment.
The gas trap passes gas backwards through a copper line to act as the shell ejector power system
.Anyways. With this setup I avoided all the potential problems. It works great.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Why exactly? With fine threads there is always an issue, but I don't understand why the chance would be significantly higher with stainless than blued.