This topic comes up now and again, but I want to describe an easy way to clean cylinders and barrels in a fraction of the time it takes using conventional methods. What used to take ½ hr now takes me 10 minutes. Please be aware that this is limited to Stainless Steel parts and surfaces and NOT blued weapons.
The key is using Lead Away pads (about $4 each if bought in a gun store, or $2 a piece over the internet). I cut the pad into multiple strips measuring about 1.5” by 2” and wind up with enough patches to clean a dozen guns or more.
First step (after making sure the gun is unloaded) is to follow conventional wisdom and wet a clean cotton patch with your favorite oil or CLP fluid. Swab the barrel or cylinders to remove loose debris. Then take a Lead Away patch and roll it on to a brass or bronze cleaning brush that is approximately 2 sizes smaller than the caliber you want to clean. E.g., to clean a .40 or .45 caliber barrel use a .32 brush (or an old worn down .38 brush). You want the wrapped barrel brush to fit snug in the barrel or cylinder.
Pass the wrapped brush down the barrel – back and forth – about 5 or 6 times. Remove it (the Lead away patch will be filthy black) and then remove the patch and wrap it around the brush again so that the clean side of the patch is up. Repeat swabbing the barrel as above.
Remove and discard the dirty patch and then, starting with a new Lead Away patch, repeat the above cleaning process. The barrel will usually be spotless after the second patch. If there was a lot of lead fouling to start with, you may need a third application. Finally, discard the dirty Lead Away patch and use a clean cotton patch (over the brass barrel brush) that has a light coating of your favorite gun oil and wipe the barrel once or twice. That’s it.
Other cleaners (such as Flitz polish) work too, but I’ve found Lead Away patches work the best for me. If you want to use Flitz, etc., wrap a clean cotton patch around a brass cylinder/barrel brush and then apply the cleaner/polish to the outside of the patch and proceed as above. The patches can also be used to clean any Stainless Steel surface of your gun. Just be aware that this method can ruin a nice blued finish.
The key is using Lead Away pads (about $4 each if bought in a gun store, or $2 a piece over the internet). I cut the pad into multiple strips measuring about 1.5” by 2” and wind up with enough patches to clean a dozen guns or more.
First step (after making sure the gun is unloaded) is to follow conventional wisdom and wet a clean cotton patch with your favorite oil or CLP fluid. Swab the barrel or cylinders to remove loose debris. Then take a Lead Away patch and roll it on to a brass or bronze cleaning brush that is approximately 2 sizes smaller than the caliber you want to clean. E.g., to clean a .40 or .45 caliber barrel use a .32 brush (or an old worn down .38 brush). You want the wrapped barrel brush to fit snug in the barrel or cylinder.
Pass the wrapped brush down the barrel – back and forth – about 5 or 6 times. Remove it (the Lead away patch will be filthy black) and then remove the patch and wrap it around the brush again so that the clean side of the patch is up. Repeat swabbing the barrel as above.
Remove and discard the dirty patch and then, starting with a new Lead Away patch, repeat the above cleaning process. The barrel will usually be spotless after the second patch. If there was a lot of lead fouling to start with, you may need a third application. Finally, discard the dirty Lead Away patch and use a clean cotton patch (over the brass barrel brush) that has a light coating of your favorite gun oil and wipe the barrel once or twice. That’s it.
Other cleaners (such as Flitz polish) work too, but I’ve found Lead Away patches work the best for me. If you want to use Flitz, etc., wrap a clean cotton patch around a brass cylinder/barrel brush and then apply the cleaner/polish to the outside of the patch and proceed as above. The patches can also be used to clean any Stainless Steel surface of your gun. Just be aware that this method can ruin a nice blued finish.
and if it works for them, great. If ya'll are happy doing what ya'll are doing, God Bless. No need to change on this good ol' boy's account. Also no need to knock my method before you try it. For those of ya'll looking for a better way to get a really clean gun in less time, give my method a try. I won't charge ya'll a dime.