Duracoating question on a rifle

LloydXmas250

New member
I've been looking into this and am thinking about doing it, first to a $100 Marlin for practice and then for my .223 bolt gun. Couple of questions though. I've seen differing instructions regarding the process. One thing said to apply duracoat over blueing but another recommends lightly sanding the blueing then applying the duracoat. All of this of course after the degreasing prep. Which is truly the right way? Also for the synthetic stock, do I need to rough that up as well with sand paper before applying? Thanks.
 

bigbird34

New member
Hot Process

Duracoat, to the best of my knowledge is a Hot process .....I have had several guns duracoated by a gunsmith .....I believe your stock would be a puddle of gooo if placed in an oven :D

My 2 pennies,Jim
 

ndking1126

New member
The sanding is to give the duracoat something to grip too. I've never done it, but have always heard that's the right way to apply it.

It's been said proper prep is 90% of the battle. Actually applying the coating is the easy part.
 

LloydXmas250

New member
Hot Process
Duracoat, to the best of my knowledge is a Hot process .....I have had several guns duracoated by a gunsmith .....I believe your stock would be a puddle of gooo if placed in an oven

My 2 pennies,Jim

There is a Durabake process that uses heat that definitely wouldn't work with a synthetic stock. But the process I'm referring to is just a regular spray job that will dry at room temperature over night and cure within 3 weeks. I think that I would sand the blueing a tad to give it something to grip to. I'll keep up to date posts if I do decide to do this.
 

troy_mclure

New member
whatever you do dont use brownells gun-kote.

i prepped and applied as per instructions, and its already chipping, and scratches easily.

keep us updated on how well the duracoat holds up.
 

DMK

New member
I can't think of any paint, resin, or epoxy finish that would not benefit from scuffing or roughing up the underlying base.

Generally topcoats do not like slick surfaces unless they can etch or otherwise chemically bond with them (like paint applied over itself).

It's been said proper prep is 90% of the battle. Actually applying the coating is the easy part.
Absolutely. Proper prep or improper prep will make or ruin any finish.

Another thing to keep in mind is you can never get it too clean. After you think its clean, clean it again. Then handle it only with latex gloves on. Grease, oil or dust/dirt will also ruin a finish.
 

LloydXmas250

New member
Noted about the roughing up part. If/when I do this I will run some 600 grit over to at least give it something to grip on. The cleaning is where I would worry the most personally. I'll probably clean it a few times just to be sure. I've heard of the people who have the duracoat bubble because they missed a spot.
 

rjrivero

New member
I used Brake Cleaner that leaves no residue. It's the generic stuff from autozone with the green cap. The duracoat worked just fine on it as a cleaner.
 

Rebok87

New member
It can be tricky but once you’ve got the hang of it you’ll do fine. Most folks have their own process that works well for them. I think that brake cleaner would work well to degrease and that you could use sand paper on bluing (although it might not be even). I do the refinishing at Innovative Arms and have had success with Duracote using these steps.
For the metal parts: remove all the old finish (bead blast), degrease parts (M.E.K.) then apply the Duracote. Apply a sealant after the finish sets (3-4 weeks). For wood and plastic parts, lightly sand, blow clean with compresses air, wipe with a degreaser, and then apply Duracote. For camo patters the process is more involved and requires patience. Good Luck with your project.
mitch1.jpg

stevescamo.jpg
 
Top