Duracoat and similar questions
- Thread starter xandi
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
Today's best "paint" type gun coating is Cerakote.
It's good enough that some guns are now Cerakoted by the factory.
Custom gunsmiths are using it as a coating option for people who don't want hard chrome or bluing.
Cerakote says that their ceramic-epoxy based coating is tougher and more durable then bluing or parkerizing.
With any of the coatings prep and application are critical.
As example Cerakote's process is very exacting about what bead blast media needs to be used, how the metal has to be degreased, and how the coating needs to be applied.
Lauer Duracoat and Cerakote as well as others can match the FDE color, since that's a US specification color and they make the paint to that specification.
For an idea of how Cerakote needs to be processed, they have a tutorial on their site:
https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com...=01 Brand&utm_term=cerakote&utm_content=Brand
This is a high standard, but any of the gun coatings can only work well if treated the same way.
Where all the coatings can fail is when the applicator tries to do a rush job with improper equipment and fails to get the bead blasting and degreasing right.
Done wrong, the coating looks bad and fails to adhere or wear well.
It's good enough that some guns are now Cerakoted by the factory.
Custom gunsmiths are using it as a coating option for people who don't want hard chrome or bluing.
Cerakote says that their ceramic-epoxy based coating is tougher and more durable then bluing or parkerizing.
With any of the coatings prep and application are critical.
As example Cerakote's process is very exacting about what bead blast media needs to be used, how the metal has to be degreased, and how the coating needs to be applied.
Lauer Duracoat and Cerakote as well as others can match the FDE color, since that's a US specification color and they make the paint to that specification.
For an idea of how Cerakote needs to be processed, they have a tutorial on their site:
https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com...=01 Brand&utm_term=cerakote&utm_content=Brand
This is a high standard, but any of the gun coatings can only work well if treated the same way.
Where all the coatings can fail is when the applicator tries to do a rush job with improper equipment and fails to get the bead blasting and degreasing right.
Done wrong, the coating looks bad and fails to adhere or wear well.
redlightrich
New member
It is very similar to painting, with exact prep details and curing after.
For most people, it would be best to hand it off to someone who does this for a living. They already made the investment in equipment.
If you have the proper spray equipment, glass bead tank, compressor, and oven, you can accomplish this, assuming you know how to apply paint, and can follow their directions.
You are correct, best leave it for the guys that do it for a living.
Good luck which ever way you choose
Rich
For most people, it would be best to hand it off to someone who does this for a living. They already made the investment in equipment.
If you have the proper spray equipment, glass bead tank, compressor, and oven, you can accomplish this, assuming you know how to apply paint, and can follow their directions.
You are correct, best leave it for the guys that do it for a living.
Good luck which ever way you choose
Rich
The other DIY finishes , not ceracoat , are simply paints of one type or another. The heat cured ones are better than the air dried.
But all coatings still require proper metal prepation, and that's what makes a good looking finish good looking.
If your not a handy DIY'er I would pay a pro and have a nice and proper job done. They have all the equipment .
But all coatings still require proper metal prepation, and that's what makes a good looking finish good looking.
If your not a handy DIY'er I would pay a pro and have a nice and proper job done. They have all the equipment .
Aguila Blanca
Staff
If anyone has first-hand experience applying Duracoat -- how do you coat the interior areas on something like a 1911 frame and slide to get coverage without glopping up a lot of excess around the perimeter of whatever recesses you're trying to spray into?
Bill DeShivs
New member
If you are going to pay someone to paint your gun, look into upgraded finishes-like hard chrome or nitriding. The cost is about the same, and those are lifetime finishes. Paint isn't.
Onward Allusion
New member
^^^
Agreed
3rd Party = Blue, Chrome . . . etc
DIY = Paint or some form of it. I just painted an old holster worn Glock slide with cheap Rustoleum Enamel in Flat Black. Had it air dried then baked at 175 for 20 minutes in a toaster oven specifically for that purpose.
Agreed
3rd Party = Blue, Chrome . . . etc
DIY = Paint or some form of it. I just painted an old holster worn Glock slide with cheap Rustoleum Enamel in Flat Black. Had it air dried then baked at 175 for 20 minutes in a toaster oven specifically for that purpose.
JeepHammer
Moderator
Depends if the coating is true heat cured, or it's UV cured.
Everything, every trace of silicone, oil, wax, carbon etc has to be removed.
UV usually uses xylene (a paint thinner) at minimum.
Some even use acid dipping to remove contaminants.
Surface texture is an issue with some coatings, blasting or chemical etching required to leave behind a surface the coating will stick to.
Then keep in mind you have to block, cover or coat the areas you don't want coated, without screwing up the ones you do want coated.
DuraCoat in particular is a little fussy about prep. I use a serious soak in something like xylene, then mask/plug the areas I don't want coated, then flush again with the DuraCoat brand cleaner.
If you want to do build-ups, leave those for last and use an airbrush.
It's hard to keep track of where this stuff is going once everything has a coat, airbrushes let you do that.
I suggest a bake and/or full cure time. It will skin over and leave soft spots underneath that will smear.
Just 'No Touch' until it dries FULLY.
Everything, every trace of silicone, oil, wax, carbon etc has to be removed.
UV usually uses xylene (a paint thinner) at minimum.
Some even use acid dipping to remove contaminants.
Surface texture is an issue with some coatings, blasting or chemical etching required to leave behind a surface the coating will stick to.
Then keep in mind you have to block, cover or coat the areas you don't want coated, without screwing up the ones you do want coated.
DuraCoat in particular is a little fussy about prep. I use a serious soak in something like xylene, then mask/plug the areas I don't want coated, then flush again with the DuraCoat brand cleaner.
If you want to do build-ups, leave those for last and use an airbrush.
It's hard to keep track of where this stuff is going once everything has a coat, airbrushes let you do that.
I suggest a bake and/or full cure time. It will skin over and leave soft spots underneath that will smear.
Just 'No Touch' until it dries FULLY.
This is an AR barrel that had previously been Duracoated, and the finish had chipped badly. Being prepped for Cerakote- part of the process is an hour long soak in a tank of degreaser (I use acetone).
This is what it looked like when it came out...
When cured, Cerakote is completely solvent proof. No cleaning solvents, brake cleaners, acetone, etc. will touch it.
This is what it looked like when it came out...
When cured, Cerakote is completely solvent proof. No cleaning solvents, brake cleaners, acetone, etc. will touch it.
I had two Rugers both 44 Mags Coated two years ago . The first a Ruger Three screw was my first to be coated sadly I had no idea what it would look like . It was done with Duracoat it was ok but less then I had hoped . The second also a Ruger but a new Model Super Blackhawk was done by a different local shop . It was also Duracoated same color but totally different it looks great . The second Ruger is shot a lot and looks as new but the first one looks like crap about half the coating gone . Point is how it is done makes a big difference .
Hunter Customs
New member
I agree with Bill DeShivs on painting guns, there's much better choices for real durable finishes then paint. If one feels they must paint their guns you might as well use what the Marines use. After the experience the FBI had with Cerakote it would be last on my list for guns with moving parts.
I've used KG Gunkote on a number of rifles and parts. It's some tough stuff, it's not coming off with any solvents or oils I've tried. I was very methodical in the surface prep, and uncharacteristically of myself read and followed the instructions. I blasted the parts with aluminium oxide media, used clean grit each time and didn't reuse it. Degreased everything with acetone and didn't touch it unless I was wear gloves. It all turned out well. Not as classic as a rust or hot blue but for the guns i used it on it's been a good tough finish.
Hunter Customs
New member
You won't find a link to the FBI problems with Cerakote because the FBI considers that an advertising endorsement. I believe H S Precision built the FBI guns I was referring to, maybe you should contact them. The information I had was on my computer unfortunately it crashed.