Dry Moly Disulphide...

BigG

New member
OK, I re-read the post about lubing the 1911 and want to get my hands on some of this... I thought it would be a commercial product and as such, looked for it at NAPA auto parts to no avail. They just looked at me dumbly and tried to give me WD40, CRC, Graphite, etc. etc.

All right! So where do I get the fershlugginer stuff? What is its brand name? Is in not available in a generic form under the commercial market, ie, auto parts or electrical supply houses? :)

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Be mentally deliberate but muscularly fast. Aim for just above the belt buckle Wyatt Earp
45 ACP: Give 'em a new navel! BigG
 
One note about this stuff before you buy a Moly lubricant. Don't get it into the barrel. Once it's in, almost impossible to remove. In order to keep the barrel clear, continuous applications are necessary. Guys that use them on bullets, have to use this stuff all the time or it will become one big fouling mess. It is awesome stuff and that is the only drawback I am aware of.

http://www.kgproducts.net/

Robert
 

slickpuppy

New member
I use moly paste on all my firearms - slides, bolts, and barrels. One brand is Neco Molyslide. Available from Lock, Stock, and Barrel http://www.lockstock.com

Hoppes also makes it too.
Neco stuff is about $7.00/tube

If I don't always shoot moly bullets in my rifles there is enough moly in the barrel to prevent copper fouling from regular bullets. It makes for super easy cleanup. You never want to completely remove the moly from the bore, but you want to insure you don't get buildup just forward of the chamber.

In pistols I don't use moly bullets, but do treat the bore of the barrel LIGHTLY with molyslide. Again, it makes cleaning the barrel a 2 minute job.

[This message has been edited by slickpuppy (edited December 01, 1999).]
 

OTIS

New member
I couldn't locate any moly grease in my local gunshops but I did find some at the Big A auto parts under the label of Sta-Lube synthetic grease designed for brake calipers.$6.50 for 2.5 oz.Works very well on my Bushmater trigger assy. Haven't tried it on anything else yet. The label says it contains molydisufide, graphite and teflon.
 

WalterGAII

Moderator
I use Brownell's moly-based, synthetic, Action Lube Plus. Works great on my Bushmaster sear engagement area. (Doesn't take much)
 
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faiello5

Guest
Otis, I have been using the Sta-Lube brake caliper grease for about a year now on all of my handguns and I think it is good stuff. A little on the rails and a little on the slide/hammer interface and away you go. It give great lubrication, it stays where you put it and a little goes a long way. Besides, anything with moly, teflon and graphite has to be good, right?

Frank
 

John Lawson

New member
Robert the .41 mag fan: The admonition to "keep moly disulphide out of the barrel" is a misquote from an article I wrote in Gunsport in the late 60's. What I actually said was "Keep moly disulphide out of the CHAMBER because it has a molecular affinity for steel." I was shooting a number of blowback pistols at the time and I noticed that the brass, being lubricated by contact with moly in the chamber, extracted at an alarming speed that was harmful to the pistols in some cases. So, the admonition only holds for blowback and delayed blowback designs. (I was introduced to moly disulphide by a friend who was an engineer.)
There are no problems with a locked breech pistol that I have been able to discern. Don't be afraid of moly; it is a marvelous lubricant. Steel parts roll on it as if there were a million microscopic ball bearings on the surface. If you have not tried it, Birchwood Casey makes a version of dry moly lube that is sold by Brownells.
As the respondents above have stated, it makes barrel cleaning a breeze.
One caveat: I use moly in the barrel of my .44 magnums, but NOT IN THE CYLINDER CHAMBERS because of the fragility of a revolver having a side swing cylinder and the possibility of increased thrust. This possibility is quite remote, but why take the chance?
 
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faiello5

Guest
John, what is better and easier to use to coat the bore with moly, a moly paste or a moly aerosol or a moly dry lube? Thanks.

Frank
 

John Lawson

New member
I can't answer that question with certainty. I have used the dry moly lubes (the carrier evaporates, leaving a dry coating,)with excellent results. Birchwood Casey's is easy to obtain. I have used moly greases and found that they will stain clothing, in warm weather especially.
The moly greases are good for certain applications where the lube can be replaced at intervals, such as zamak and steel lathe change gears.
Another superior use of dry moly is in lubing a sticky primer feed system, such as on the Dillon 550 press.
I have another excellent bore treatment that I picked up at the NRA show: Gun Juice, by Microlon, Inc. of Bellingham, WA. It protects the bore and (slightly) increases velocity.
 
John, you are absolutely correct, Moly is a great lubricant. You talk to a bench shooter or other competitive shooter and they would be willing to trade their first born for the stuff. But, these are also the same group of guys that are saying, if you are going to use Moly, you have got to be committed to using it. My interest in Moly comes from using it as a bullet coating and not as a lubricant, but I am assuming that they are both the same base chemical and the effects are about the same. To get Moly into the barrel is not a bad thing, but according to those using Moly in bullets, once it is in the barrel, there has to be a commitment to continue the use of the product. It is very difficult to remove Moly from the inside of the barrel. If only trace amounts of Moly are left in the barrel, it will increase copper fouling and the combination of both is almost impossible to remove. A continuous application of Moly is necessary in order to avoid barrel damage.

Here is a site that talks about Moly coated bullets. Look at their Q&A under drawbacks. Again, I am making a BIG assumption here, you are talking lubricants, I'm talking bullets, but it is the same chemical. It can cause the same problems. I have heard this from many users of this product.

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/4263/molly.htm

Am I making sense or am I assuming (making a ass of myself) too much?

Robert
 
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faiello5

Guest
John, given Roberts post and link regarding not shooting jacketed bullets out of a moly coated bore, what has your experience been? Have you only shot moly coated bullets out of the moly coated bore? Have you shot jacketed bullets out of a moly coated bore? Any problems cleaning?

Robert, when you say one must be vigilant in applying the moly regularly, am I correct in assuming that application after each range visit would be sufficient?

The idea of making the bore easier to clean appeals to me. However, if it will make it more difficul to clean when using jacketed bullets, I surely don't need the extra work.

Frank
 

John Lawson

New member
I have never fired moly coated bullets. I have fired jacketed, cast lead (hard, like foundry type) and copper plated bullets through moly coated and Gun Juice treated pistol and revolver barrels only.
It is a habit I have made automatic over the last 30 years or more to clean a barrel and finish with a patch saturated with dry moly lube. Long ago, I used RIG or Vaseline. The moly took the place of the final coating of grease.
No problem in cleaning over the usual that I have ever been able to determine. I have used Pro Tec Nitro powder and Bore Cleaner Solvent with excellent results.
In my experience, you need to keep replacing ANYTHING you use in a barrel after cleaning. I shoot up to 200 rounds in a range session.
Some of the grade 2 barrels are going to collect fouling no matter what you do to them. I have one Chinese barrel that has an excellent bore and another similar one that is a magnet for fouling.
 

OkieGentleman

New member
If you are looking for dry moly in a spray can go to most any industial supply house and check with them. I have never thought to ask if they have in in a powder. I got my last 16 oz can for about $4. I started using Moly about 20 years ago and used to freely spray my barrel interior and even on the exterior of my blued gun. I felt it would help protect the finish. A wipe rag with brake cleaner took off the excess. I started doing this because the spray got all over the gun anyway and there seemed to be a difference in the finish (it looked deeper and darker).
I also sprayed the interior parts of the gun that did not have any wear(under the grips)as it left a film that would inhibit rust. I sprayed the interior of the barrel and then ran a patch to remove the excess. After shooting lead reloads I could hold the end of the barrel and hit it against a rag laid over a board (usually the bench rest)and the lead fell out of the barrel onto the rag. I showed this to a gunsmith I knew and he almost came unglued and wanted to know how I did that. Don't get this stuff on your hands and clothing. Your hand will look like you dipped them in black shoe dye and your clothes will not come clean. Moly has the property of filling the pores of the steel and permanently bonding with the steel. It also gets slicker under pressure and heat so it is perfect for the inside of the barrel. The moly spray I use (I think without getting the can from my work truck) has a rating up to about 80,000 psi. I looked at some of the info about having to keep using moly after using it once, I don't doubt their word, but it doesn't make sense to me. I do not know it all and admit it so maybe there is some draw backs to using moly that I am not aware of. My two cents worth.
 

1917-1911M

New member
Came across your Forum and you seem to be discussing something I need some advice on. I recently purchased a Walther P-22, .22 cal pistol. I shot 40 gr. Federal Champion ammunition mostly. I lightly lubed with hoppes or remington, rem Oil w/teflon every 250 rounds and completely broke the pistol down for cleaning every 500 rounds. tetra gun grease was used on the slide and frame rails. Well, by 4 - 5000 rounds the slide was worn out, so much slide lift the hammer would no longer cock. By filing the hammer cock notch so the sear would engage earlier I managed to get her to go about 8,500 rounds when the slide was so worn even the slide stop catch wouldn't catch.

Posting at RimFireCentral.com there is a lot of discusssion re. this pistol and associated problems. One consensus from a number of users is that a dry lubricant should be used as these guns have a cast zinc slide and rail system. Operation of the pistol's slide is similar to my 1911's. The theory being that oil and grease catch dirt, debris and powder residue making an abrasive mixture that eats up the alloy slide.

I bought a secong gun as a test gun. It was washed of all oil, sprayed with Rem oil/teflon and blown dry with compressed air. My gunsmith gave me some black/silvery powder similar to graphite that he labeled moly/teflon. He doesn't know what this is only someone in the military dropped off some for him to try one day.

I applied this with a q-tip to the slide grooves, frame rails, hammer face, underside of the breech block that cocks and slides on the hammer and barrel sleeve and slide return spring and bar. I carefully measured all critical components, grooves, rails, etc with a digital caliper to nearest 1/10000"

Every 500 rounds the gun is broken down and cleaned. It stays really clean compared to the previous oil and grease cleaning procedure. The breech face, rear chamber, mag housing etc are sprayed with Birchwood Casey gunscrubber, compressed air, rem/oil/teflon, compressed air and the heavy wear areas with the black powder never cleaned just more black powder rubbed on. At appx. 4000 rounds there is no measurable wear anywhere.

Anyone know what this might be? Thanks, 1911M

278231.JPG
Test gun at 4000 rounds, note: absolutely no wear to frame rails and silvery color of powder lubricant. This picture taken after 500 rounds, no cleaning as of yet and no cleaning at all to rails, hammer sear etc since the gun was initially cleaned. I need to get more of this stuff.
 

gudel

New member
I couldn't locate any moly grease in my local gunshops but I did find some at the Big A auto parts under the label of Sta-Lube synthetic grease designed for brake calipers.$6.50 for 2.5 oz.Works very well on my Bushmater trigger assy. Haven't tried it on anything else yet. The label says it contains molydisufide, graphite and teflon.

i found synthetic high temp caliper grease similar to this. cost me $11, but it came in 8oz or so tub. it does have those 3 ingredients. it does say not for high speed moving parts. probably not ok for slide.

btw, this stuff doesn't work for anti squeal despite the suggestion on the label.
 

Zekewolf

New member
If you want dry moly powder, order it from Midway. It's industrial grade dry moly that's used for coating bullets.
 

brickeyee

New member
"it does say not for high speed moving parts. probably not ok for slide."

They are talking about bearings. The grease is most likely not the corect type.

You can also buy powdered moly from McMaster-Carr or MSC and mix it into Mobil 1 sythetic grease. The start up charges are higher than the small tubes of moly grease but the final cost is a lot less.
Morroso also has a very good moly grease that is used for engine assembly. It provides the extra protection needed for a new camshaft before the oil can start lubricating (it also clogs oil filters very quickly). Available at any place that sells high preformance camshafts and parts.
 

Sgt127

New member
http://www.russack.com/

This is a link to what appears to be the current manufacturer of Dri-Slide. This stuff was the hot item in Vietnam as I understand it. Its Moly mixed with an extremely thin carrier. It will penetrate everywhere and the carrier evaporates and leaves a film of Moly that does not attract dust or dirt. I used it for many years and will likely buy another bottle.
 
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