Does Anyone Know How To Remove The Bolt On An Ithaca/SKB XL900?

Armed_Chicagoan

New member
Thread title says it all. I've had this 12ga for nearly 30 years, bought it used for $100. It's still in fantastic shape, wood is nearly flawless, one very light scratch on the receiver game bird etchings, no rust whatsoever. I use it to shoot clays, after 200 rounds or so it starts to get dirty and will occasionally stovepipe. Removing the barrel is easy enough, but I have never been able to figure out how to remove the bolt on this thing! So I poke around behind it as best I can, but it would be a lot easier to clean if I could get the bolt out of the way. I'm sure there's nooks and crannies in there I have never been able to get to. The manual at the SKB site only shows how to remove the barrel, not the bolt. Internet searches have proved futile.

It's a gas operated, 2 3/4" only model. Not to be confused with the recoil operated 900 or the 3" version that has the screw adjustment to switch between 3" and 2 3/4" shells. Nor does it have the magazine cut-off system.

I can provide close-up pics if needed, but possibly not until Saturday as I have work tomorrow (not sure how long this job will take) and and plans for tomorrow night. In the mean time here's a pic of the shotgun, hopefully someone here has this exact model and can tell me the secret of bolt removal!

Ithaca%20xl900.jpg
 

PetahW

New member
.

A pal bought a Deerslayer version (new), many years ago - so I can only partially remember how it was done.

IIRC, he first drifted out the two trigger group retainer pins (ala Rem 1100) & dropped out the trigger group after removing the forend & bbl.

He then did something with the bolt to remove the handle and then slide it out of the front of the receiver via pulling the operating rod/slide, etc.


Sorry I couldn't be more specific, but it wasn't my gun.



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Armed_Chicagoan

New member
Thanks Petah, I saw a post on Shotgun World (my antivirus goes nuts on that site!) about how some versions of this you had to remove the trigger group, and then you can access a hole in the bottom of the bolt. Inserting a punch into this hole releases the bolt handle, does that sound right?

I'm guessing those 2 pins above the trigger are what needs to be drifted out to remove the trigger group? I'll try that tomorrow.
 

BigD_in_FL

Moderator
After all those years, you might also need a new spring. Since you are planning to to a major take-down, you might want to get a new one and install it at the same time.
 

PetahW

New member
Armed Chicagoan said:
Inserting a punch into this hole releases the bolt handle, does that sound right?

I'm guessing those 2 pins above the trigger are what needs to be drifted out to remove the trigger group?


Yes & Yes.

BTW - Take care not to scratch through that painted-on stock grain/finish.
I can guarantee you won't like what the wood undeneath looks like. (peanut butter)




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drcook

New member
hard drives die, if it was me, I would turn it into a paper copy or put it on some other kind of backup media
 

Armed_Chicagoan

New member
As I suspected there was lots of crud in there, all nice and clean now. Action is now as smooth as new, this should cure the stovepipe issue. I think I can shoot this all day now with no issues.

Thanks to all who replied!

Oh and drcook, I learned my lesson about hard drive failure long ago. I build all my computers now (I've never bought an assembled computer) with a redundant RAID array, as well as a 3rd hard drive I back up all my documents in. So long as the house doesn't burn down I'll be OK, and if that happens I'll have far worse issues!
 

drcook

New member
me also, I probably have 10 machines running here all networked together. i copy my documents, email repositories, favorites, anything I can't stand to be without onto multiple machines

I have a couple SCSI boxes still. even those have issues. I had a couple 15K rpm drives go south on me.

it is about time I do another migration. this helps remind me (talking about it)

glad I could help out with the document
 
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