Pietro Beretta
New member
Do you segregate your fired brass by maker?
Do you segregate your brass?
- Thread starter Pietro Beretta
- Start date
Rangerrich99
New member
I voted yes, but only in couple ways. I separate my rifle brass my headstamp because I found that rifle brass can vary quite a bit from maker to maker, and I'm usually trying to coax the most consistency from my rifle handloads as I can.
I also separate any Blazer brass from the rest of my .45 auto cases, as they seem to be all small primer pockets.
I don't really bother to separate any of my other handgun brass.
I also separate any Blazer brass from the rest of my .45 auto cases, as they seem to be all small primer pockets.
I don't really bother to separate any of my other handgun brass.
Need a "sometimes" choice
Pistol: There are some headstamps that I will cull out. I will segregate the nickel from the brass and load the nickel cases with HP. Other than that the rest get grouped together.
Rifle: all sorted and trimmed at the same time. I typically load 50 round lots with any excess brass going back into the "ready to load" tray. For rifle I also weigh and sort the bullets so I have very consistent ammo.
Pistol: There are some headstamps that I will cull out. I will segregate the nickel from the brass and load the nickel cases with HP. Other than that the rest get grouped together.
Rifle: all sorted and trimmed at the same time. I typically load 50 round lots with any excess brass going back into the "ready to load" tray. For rifle I also weigh and sort the bullets so I have very consistent ammo.
nemesiss45
New member
When I load for best accuracy i do. Otherwise, i just sort military brass from civilian, separate nickle, and cull a few headstamps i dont like.
condor bravo
New member
Well yes since after firing a box of 20 whatevers, you end up with the same box of 20 so segregating just comes naturally. And after retrieving multiple boxes with different brands from the tumbler, they are of course segregated. Obtaining various variaties of range brass is rarely if ever done but certainly would be segregated. Only exception might be that if ending up with 19 Rems, would add one more Win if extras were available.
brasscollector
New member
I segregate all rifle and some pistol depending on what type of load.
madmo44mag
New member
When I load for best accuracy I do. Otherwise, i just sort military brass from civilian, separate nickle, and cull a few head stamps I don't like.
I have figure out what head stamp has the smallest volume and use that volume to work up a load for a given rifle caliber.
Range ammo is loaded in volume in a progressive press so I don't load to max pressures and keep it simple and cost effective.
I have figure out what head stamp has the smallest volume and use that volume to work up a load for a given rifle caliber.
Range ammo is loaded in volume in a progressive press so I don't load to max pressures and keep it simple and cost effective.
Onward Allusion
New member
No, but I only load to plink and they're powder-puff rounds.
I sort brass, when I tumble cases I want the same 20 cases back in the same box. That is not difficult to manage when a reloader has cases with different head stamps. Many reloaders require therapy because of bad habits. A reloader forms a bad habit when mixing brass with different head stamps and mixing brass that has been fire a different number of times.
I hear it over and over and etc., it is necessary to full length size a case after 4 firings because the case, after 4 firings, is full grown. And then the rational; full length sizing allows the reloader to start over. I have never figured that one out; the case has been fired 4 times. How is it possible to start over, the case had been fired 4 times+.
Think about it; there are 20 cases to the box; I can not imagine a reloader with a box of cases that require a different sizing process because none of the cases are on the same number if firings.
I guess if a reloader had boxes that held one case at a time managing the ‘start over with full length sizing’ would be manageable.
When I dump 100 or 200 up to 500 cases into a tumbler I want to be able to sort the cases with different head stamps. A reloader is not restricted to sorting in groups of 10 or 20, plastic ammo boxes some in all different colors and sizes.
F. Guffey
I hear it over and over and etc., it is necessary to full length size a case after 4 firings because the case, after 4 firings, is full grown. And then the rational; full length sizing allows the reloader to start over. I have never figured that one out; the case has been fired 4 times. How is it possible to start over, the case had been fired 4 times+.
Think about it; there are 20 cases to the box; I can not imagine a reloader with a box of cases that require a different sizing process because none of the cases are on the same number if firings.
I guess if a reloader had boxes that held one case at a time managing the ‘start over with full length sizing’ would be manageable.
When I dump 100 or 200 up to 500 cases into a tumbler I want to be able to sort the cases with different head stamps. A reloader is not restricted to sorting in groups of 10 or 20, plastic ammo boxes some in all different colors and sizes.
F. Guffey
No ....
and while I reload primarily for handguns ...or in handgun rifle calibers ( .357 Mag, .44 Mag...) and I shoot the same load in .357 mag for my revolvers and my Henry lever action.
I don't see any point to it ...and it doesn't affect accuracy - at least out to 25 yds in my handguns / I have a couple of semi-autos and revolvers that will give me 1" groups at 25 yds ( from a rest - not off hand with my skill 0 with mixed head stamp ammo that I've reloaded.
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After I clean my brass in one caliber ...like 9mm..../ I sort to remove AMERC and S&B and a variety of odd ball head stamps with no marking reflecting eitiher "9mm luger" or "9 X 19"...on them...( and anything with bad dents or that just looks generally old or beat up ).
But to sort again by head stamp...no...
and while I reload primarily for handguns ...or in handgun rifle calibers ( .357 Mag, .44 Mag...) and I shoot the same load in .357 mag for my revolvers and my Henry lever action.
I don't see any point to it ...and it doesn't affect accuracy - at least out to 25 yds in my handguns / I have a couple of semi-autos and revolvers that will give me 1" groups at 25 yds ( from a rest - not off hand with my skill 0 with mixed head stamp ammo that I've reloaded.
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After I clean my brass in one caliber ...like 9mm..../ I sort to remove AMERC and S&B and a variety of odd ball head stamps with no marking reflecting eitiher "9mm luger" or "9 X 19"...on them...( and anything with bad dents or that just looks generally old or beat up ).
But to sort again by head stamp...no...
For me also, it depends. For my rifles, yes I sort and my 30-06 brass gets reloadings counted too. For my .44 Magnum, yes. Very easy to take empties from the cylinder and drop them back into the box to keep separate. For 45 ACP, 9mm. 38 Spec. nope. For .357 Mag. sometimes.
But last Saturday I was in my shop with nuttin' to do, as I already had 1/4 metric ton of reloads waiting to be tested, I cleaned (polished, 'cuz shiny brass is easier to find in the dirt) and sorted by headstamp, approx. 500, 9mm cases
But last Saturday I was in my shop with nuttin' to do, as I already had 1/4 metric ton of reloads waiting to be tested, I cleaned (polished, 'cuz shiny brass is easier to find in the dirt) and sorted by headstamp, approx. 500, 9mm cases
I had a weak moment, I forgot how thankless posting pictures can be; I got over it.
http://www.spectra-associates.com/microfilmcabinets/microfilmcabinets.html
I have 5 of these cabinets, I like the shallow drawers.
F. Guffey
http://www.spectra-associates.com/microfilmcabinets/microfilmcabinets.html
I have 5 of these cabinets, I like the shallow drawers.
F. Guffey
Pietro Beretta
New member
Looks like I have five years of collected brass to go through, 90% mine 10% pickups from the range.
I would have never guessed at the time to separate headstamps!
(I just Finished ABC's of reloading.)
Magnum Wheel Man
New member
in fact I typically designate a brand of brass for specific guns, not just calibers, that way I know the Winchester 30-30 brass goes into the Wincester lever action, & the R-P 30-30 brass goes into the Contender ( for example ) this way I can load the 30-30 differently for each specific gun, & I'm less likely to put the wrong cartridge into the wrong gun...
the only brass I mix headstamps on, & don't keep specific records of how many times it's been loaded, as my CAS cartridges, & this is because I don't often get my same cases back ( though that number has increased, since I started wet tumbling, & my brass is so shiny, that those picking them up at the matches have an easier time finding them )
the only brass I mix headstamps on, & don't keep specific records of how many times it's been loaded, as my CAS cartridges, & this is because I don't often get my same cases back ( though that number has increased, since I started wet tumbling, & my brass is so shiny, that those picking them up at the matches have an easier time finding them )