Dealing with a stripped screw hole.
- Thread starter SIGSHR
- Start date
Wood putty won't hold. The down and dirty, old carpenter method is to whittle a slightly tapered wood plug slightly larger than the hole. Apply some wood glue (Elmer's works) and tap it into place. After the glue dries, trim it and drill a pilot hole the diameter of the screw shank, not the treads. A little wood glue on the screw won't hurt either, kinda like using Loctite
Easy peasy.
Easy peasy.
Wood-plugs and tooth-picks
More often, I have an alternate method and because the contour of a wood screw. I clean out any saw dust, left in the hole, fill in with TiteBond-III or equal and insert round tooth-picks, pointed tips down and break off flush. Usually takes no more than three tips. This way, there is enough voids/room to accommodate the screw. Even has a self-centering effect.
Be Safe !!!
This is basically my approach and can't trust wood putty. I have had to make tapered plugs and you can also buy them in a hardware store.
More often, I have an alternate method and because the contour of a wood screw. I clean out any saw dust, left in the hole, fill in with TiteBond-III or equal and insert round tooth-picks, pointed tips down and break off flush. Usually takes no more than three tips. This way, there is enough voids/room to accommodate the screw. Even has a self-centering effect.
Be Safe !!!
Last edited:
stinkeypete
New member
As said above, the proper solution is to plug with a hardwood dowel and redrill.
Since you know that is a problem area, retap the hole the chase the hole with it’s screw a few times... then wax the screw with auto wax (better than Vaseline) because I’m suggesting painting the inside threaded region of your repair with just enough cyanoacrilate glue (CA) to harden your new threads. Obviously, wait long enough before assembly that you don’t glue your screw in to the stock with that CA glue!
That brings to mind another solution- since you can’t match the grain unless you are one of the master repair guys who can... maybe a tasteful delrin dowel (available in white or black) could be made to look like it was built that way... it’s a material that will be more difficult to strip out again in the future.
Use auto wax, not Vaseline. Use quality epoxy with a bit of filler like phenolic beads, not wood putty. Use a plug per above is probably best!
I will just mention that when using a bolt to mold a threaded hole in to an epoxy casting, they make “Oversize” bolts- just a bit larger than the assembly bolt- so when the casting bolt is removed, the resulting threaded hole is “just right” and the mechanical bolt screws right in without cutting or stretching the cast threaded hole. For repairs, simply chasing a cast hole with a tap does the same thing. I was stunned to learn about “Oversize” bolts 30 years ago.
Since you know that is a problem area, retap the hole the chase the hole with it’s screw a few times... then wax the screw with auto wax (better than Vaseline) because I’m suggesting painting the inside threaded region of your repair with just enough cyanoacrilate glue (CA) to harden your new threads. Obviously, wait long enough before assembly that you don’t glue your screw in to the stock with that CA glue!
That brings to mind another solution- since you can’t match the grain unless you are one of the master repair guys who can... maybe a tasteful delrin dowel (available in white or black) could be made to look like it was built that way... it’s a material that will be more difficult to strip out again in the future.
Use auto wax, not Vaseline. Use quality epoxy with a bit of filler like phenolic beads, not wood putty. Use a plug per above is probably best!
I will just mention that when using a bolt to mold a threaded hole in to an epoxy casting, they make “Oversize” bolts- just a bit larger than the assembly bolt- so when the casting bolt is removed, the resulting threaded hole is “just right” and the mechanical bolt screws right in without cutting or stretching the cast threaded hole. For repairs, simply chasing a cast hole with a tap does the same thing. I was stunned to learn about “Oversize” bolts 30 years ago.
Last edited:
Doing one's best, in their own best way !!
"The proper solution". "Most" of the time, tooth-picks and moisture resistant glue works well on wood but not always or on resin or composite stocks.
Caution;
One word of caution When working with wood laminate stocks; some of the adhesives used are not the strongest part of the stock and will separate if not worked properly. Even over-tightening an existing threaded fastener "may" separate the bond. May not even be noticeable until after you shoot. .....
Be Safe !!!
There is more than one way, to skin this cat. I let the project dictate what is,
"The proper solution". "Most" of the time, tooth-picks and moisture resistant glue works well on wood but not always or on resin or composite stocks.
Caution;
One word of caution When working with wood laminate stocks; some of the adhesives used are not the strongest part of the stock and will separate if not worked properly. Even over-tightening an existing threaded fastener "may" separate the bond. May not even be noticeable until after you shoot. .....
Be Safe !!!
Last edited: