CVA Hawken Pistol Kit

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Prof Young

New member
I got a good buy on a CVA Hawken Pitsol Kit, model KA770 at an auction. But it does not have the insturctions or manual. I've inquired of Deer Creek and am waiting for a reply. I've searched elsewhere on the internet to no avail.

Help?

Prof Young
 
P

Prof Young

New member
You are on . . .

I bought it. Is there anything I should know before I start assembly. Otherwise I'll begin and holler when I get lost or stuck or dumfounded.

One question I already have . . . it's fifty cal, can I shoot regular fifty cal sabots or do I need to get some balls? (I mean for the gun . . . :)

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
Is it a Traditions kit?

I could not assemble mine based on what Trinidad College was trying to teach me. I had to use a lot of my knowledge from the NMLRA gunbuilding workshop at Bowling Green, classes at Conner Prairie and a class at the Log Cabin Shop.

Worse thing was having to relieve the bottom of the drum so the barrel/drum would fit the lock. Also had to bend the hammer so it would time with the nipple. Then I also drilled the ramrod hole just so the rod would enter straight.

First thing is to inlet the lock. Where the lock goes determines where the tang and barrel goes.

ETA: OK, found the kit. It's similar and possibly made by the same Spaniards. The grips are different as is the rear sight and the face of the lockplate is plainer (no faux engraving).

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?307805-CVA-Hawken-pistol-50

Watch the video but do not follow those instructions. Post pictures so I can walk you through the assembly. Re: mystery spring. That forward lock screw is pushed partially in and then goes through the spring. The spring provides tension against the ramrod to keep it from falling out.

Especially do not follow his example of loading from the flask. Always use a powder measure. An ember can cause a premature ignition and you don't want to be holding a hand grenade.
 
P

Pahoo

New member
Be patient with the project and yourself.

Is it a Traditions kit?
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It's the CVA kit and about 15yrs. ago, put two of these kits together and then, last year, sold them. Each one was sold with the instructions that came with the kits. Compared to other kits, the printed instructions were not all that great. The posted videos provide better support. This kit is similar to the Colonial pistol kit. Fairly straight forward. The usual advise that I give, is to be patient with the project and yourself. Assemble to a functional state and then go back and do the finish work. ......... ;)

Be Safe !!!!
 
P

Prof Young

New member
Have found lots of good info but . . .

I've found lots of good info and am on the verge of actually putting this thing together. I have not found the specific instructions fo this kit, even after inquiring with CVA. But after multiple videos and reading other instructions I think I have the idea.

I plant to a complete assembly for fit before I finish the wood. About the wood I'm still trying to decide if I want to be traditional or do something different. At the very least I'll figure out a way to inscribe my name and date of assembly on it somewhere.

In the mean time, I'm looking for loading info. I'm getting the idea that about 30grains of Pyrodex is a place to start. Talk to me.

Important query, do I need to get some 50 cal balls, or can I shoot the same sabot slugs that go in the in-line muzzle loading rifle? Talk to me.

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
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Schlitz 45

New member
The old trapper rule of thumb was to put the ball in hand, cover it with powder, & that was your load. I'm guessing you have a .50" bore? 30gr of XX or pistol powder is a light load & should be fine to start with.
I built a .54 Lyman Plains Pistol a couple years back as a companion to my .54 Hawken & generally load 60gr Pyrodex P with a patched .53 ball & it shoots well.
Take your time & don't be afraid to make it your own. I got tired of seeing the same old stuff from kits so I always try to put a little extra in the carving/shaping, & on this one I used both blue & plumb brown metal finishes for some contrast. Above all-have fun!
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HU1GmO9l.jpg
 
P

Prof Young

New member
Progress report . . . and help needed . . .

Muzzle Loaders:

Below is a pic of the pistol prefit assembled. I wanted to get it all together before I finished the wood. Take a look. You'll note that I have not drifted in the sights yet. I haven't put the brass butt cap on either.

The other two pics are a left over part and I can't figure out where it goes. I also have two left over screws that don't seem to go anywhere. It occurs to me that maybe these are parts for a different model. If you recognize the part, please let me know.

Looking forward to finishing this and shooting it. Still have not yet decided how to make the handle/wood parts unique.

Life is good.

Prof Young
 

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S

Schlitz 45

New member
No ideas about the extra parts, good looking pistol that should finish out nicely & be a fun shooter. I wanted to do some inlays on mine but there's not a lot of flat areas to work much into. Track of The Wolf has a bunch of small brass inlays that could be added.
All the inlays I had were a bit to big for a pistol so I had to wait for another project to use them on.
Hnyl5jTl.jpg
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
Sorry but I don't know what those screws are for.

They don't go in front for the brass nose cap, do they?
You've got the lockplate screws in right (they look like they're in).
Trigger plate screws can't be that long either.

The stock needs scuplting to make it more graceful and less blocky. Check out images of earlier flintlocks/percussion pistols.
 
P

Pahoo

New member
Interesting

I also have two left over screws that don't seem to go anywhere.
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Wish you had posted pictures of the screws. Some kits do come with duplicate screws. One set is usually plated steel for assembly and the second set are brass and used on the finished product. as far as that other part, don't have a clue and wish you could show, more pictures. .... :confused:

Enjoy and;
Be Safe !!!
 
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Prof Young

New member
Screws are for brass butt plate . . .

Yeah, the screws are for the brass butt plate that is not yet installed. Duh!

I'm thinking that the extra part must be for a different kit. I don't think these kits are the most precision thing.

Like I just realized that the picture on the box is not the same as the gun inside the box. The trigger guard is different as is the brass end cap under the barrel.

I love the skull and cross bones idea. I think I'll figure out away to carve that into the handle some where.

Will post a final pic and give a range report when I get there.

Still wondering if it's okay to shoot 50 cal sabots out of this thing or if I should stick to balls.

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
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Pahoo

New member
PRB's are very forgiving

Still wondering if it's okay to shoot 50 cal sabots out of this thing or if I should stick to balls.
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You can but being a conservative, which makes me cheap, I would settle in on the PRB. Also depends on the sabots. some will shoot like crap if you push them too hard. ..... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
No to sabots. Plastic fouling is hard to remove from a non-inline muzzle loader. With inlines you can pull the plug and use a brass brush to push/scrub out the plastic residue. Stuff comes out in sheets. Use patched round balls.
 
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Prof Young

New member
I forgot to ask . . .

Hey! How do I figure out what size caps to use with thing thing? They come in size 10 and 11 . . . right? How do I know which one or does it not matter?

Life is good.

Prof Young
 
P

Pahoo

New member
#11 to start

Hey! How do I figure out what size caps to use with thing.
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My kits, came with #11 and that is where "I" would start. They should fit snug and not rattle around. If it does, then go to a #10. Now then, there is dimensional data out there but even for what "they" might call a #11, there are inconsistencies. You can always use the 11's, later ...... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
R

Ricklin

New member
Nice

I'm with Gary, what I can see looks pretty well fitted, now work on those stock contours. It's yours, make it yours with sandpaper and time. No, not finger grooves, perish the thought! Just size and shape for your hand.
 
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