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Curing hammer bite. For me anyhow.
- Thread starter Lavan
- Start date
It never occurred to me a fatter grip might solve that problem. Jeff Cooper had us focused on reducing frame width, as he thought it was too fat for the best trigger finger location and for fast and sure control changing magazines or making a fast presentation, so beavertail grip safeties are what I've always used. But it sounds like, depending on your hand size, you may want to go the other way.
I wear an XL,or preferably a 2XXL glove. Work history from skidding fenceposts out of the woods,7 years busting tires and 30 years machinist, I have fairly meaty hands.
I take a high grip on a handgun.
On guns like a short spur 1911,a BHP,a PPK, the hide of the web of my hand just WILL roll up over the spur. I've found no grip or technique to avoid it.
Looking at the web of my hand shows a series of scars,like rungs of a ladder.
I hate bleeding on guns. It makes them rust.
I do appreciate the problem you are solving is real.
Beavertails work,of course, but I built a 1911 I wanted to appear in military trim.
A purist would notice,but I used a military long spur grip safety,lightly dehorned,and a slightly bobbed and dehorned GI type hammer.Not much, It does not bite me,and,IMO,it "looks right"
It still will properly disengage the grip safety when one handed de-cocking
(Think a Cavalry Troop,reins in one hand,lowering hammer to half cock. No,I'm not advocating carrying with the hammer on half cock. Perhaps from a military requirement,JMB designed the gun so thumbing the hammer fully back,the hammer spur against the grip safety spur would permit trigger pull to lower the hammer.)
I take a high grip on a handgun.
On guns like a short spur 1911,a BHP,a PPK, the hide of the web of my hand just WILL roll up over the spur. I've found no grip or technique to avoid it.
Looking at the web of my hand shows a series of scars,like rungs of a ladder.
I hate bleeding on guns. It makes them rust.
I do appreciate the problem you are solving is real.
Beavertails work,of course, but I built a 1911 I wanted to appear in military trim.
A purist would notice,but I used a military long spur grip safety,lightly dehorned,and a slightly bobbed and dehorned GI type hammer.Not much, It does not bite me,and,IMO,it "looks right"
It still will properly disengage the grip safety when one handed de-cocking
(Think a Cavalry Troop,reins in one hand,lowering hammer to half cock. No,I'm not advocating carrying with the hammer on half cock. Perhaps from a military requirement,JMB designed the gun so thumbing the hammer fully back,the hammer spur against the grip safety spur would permit trigger pull to lower the hammer.)
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I never had hammer bite problem when I was young and trimmed. Now fat (not much) and floppy skin start giving me problem. Normal beaver tail can't "dam" the "over flowing" skin out of trouble anymore. I despise those pimpy-looking oversized beaver tails. The only option is glove. A single sailing glove on my right hand will do.
Thick grips may work. But they are just not always a viable options. I like old milsurp guns. They don't make grips for those. Besides thick grips induce other problems. I just save the dough to buy another pair of gloves.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Thick grips may work. But they are just not always a viable options. I like old milsurp guns. They don't make grips for those. Besides thick grips induce other problems. I just save the dough to buy another pair of gloves.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk