Cost to replace trigger on s&w mod 60?

[Dr. Dave]

I have one of those 3" full lug adj site model 60s. It has this completely stupid target trigger that kills my finger when I try to rapid fire. Can anyone tell me how much it would cost to have the trigger replaced with a standard one? Would it be best to send it to the factory?

thanks

 

[Walosi]

Doc:

Is it the grooves or the width of the trigger that is giving you fits?

If you are hady with a Dremel Tool, you can hone down and polish the trigger face entirely, or just smooth the ridges until they no longer bother. This can also be done with silicon carbide paper in a fine grit, although it takes a while.

If the width is a problem, smoothing the grooves and then rounding the outer edges can allieviate much of this. Care must be taken to keep grit and metal dust out of the action (Tape, and wrapping with an old T-Shirt, perhaps) but if you are handy with this, it is cheaper than the alternatives and might suit you better than you think.

 

[Dr. Dave]

both

Both the width and grooves bother me. I've thought of doing it myself, but I'd hate to mess it up as it really is a nice gun.



thanks

 

[Walosi]

I understand that!! (I've never messed up, of course)

I've done two grooved narrow triggers and one wide target (leaving three smoothed over grooves down the center for "tactile reference") and I've touched up the ends and edges of all of my "combat" triggers. Using Cratex polishing tips in the Dremel (fine or med. grit) gives you a slow cut which you can monitor closely. I slip the tailof an old T-Shirt into the triggerguard to catch any overruns, and tape part of it over the frame opening. With the Dremel on a speed control, it is possible to take the metal down a thou at a time, and still have very good control. It's a case of slowly, slowly catchee monkey.

I use the same wrap and tape if I'm using carbide paper, but it is work in ten-thousandths, and takes more patience. ALL of my triggers out of the box try to bite me with the end of the trigger, and I've even had to smooth the end of a 686 from the Peformance Center.

I have seen replacement hammer and trigger sets from the factory that were supposedly "drop in", but this was several years ago, and , frankly, the idea seemed preposterous given that these parts are at the heart of the timing process.

 

[Mike Irwin]

Ah hell, dremel away, Dave!


Start with the face of the trigger first, though.

You might be very pleasantly surprised that with the grooves gone, you don't mind the width at all.

That's what happened with me on my Model 19. I was grinding the face smooth prior to reducing the width, and before starting in the sides I popped the gun back together to make certain that the grooves were gone and that the grinding was done in an arc.

Well guess what...

With the grooves gone, I didn't mind the width at all.

I've ground the triggers on 4 of my S&Ws.

I just can't bring myself to grind the triggers on my 4" 28 or my 4" 58, though.