Cold blue paste cure time?
- Thread starter Venom1956
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
There is no cure time. Cold bluing stinks. It will always stink.
Oh I did not know that...
I had to cover up some raw steel on saiga conversion I am doing by the trigger. Hmmm so even if it smells I don't need to worry about it being in contact with skin or after contact with it getting acid on myself or other stuff? Or should I remove it and use something else?
First time I've used this stuff. Didn't see any info about a smell or skin contact after use. I've gotten some not fun chemicals on my hands before. Just wanna be cautious and do it that right.
Looks pretty great all things considered.
From what Im reading the vapors it puts off isnt great for the rest of the gun and anything else in an enclosed space...
I am wondering If I should remove it or maybe cover it with some engine enamel or something? I know whatever the Saiga is finished it its some sort of paint... I just know eezox tends to dissolve paints. Kinda of a bummer.
I had to cover up some raw steel on saiga conversion I am doing by the trigger. Hmmm so even if it smells I don't need to worry about it being in contact with skin or after contact with it getting acid on myself or other stuff? Or should I remove it and use something else?First time I've used this stuff. Didn't see any info about a smell or skin contact after use. I've gotten some not fun chemicals on my hands before. Just wanna be cautious and do it that right.
Looks pretty great all things considered.
From what Im reading the vapors it puts off isnt great for the rest of the gun and anything else in an enclosed space...
I am wondering If I should remove it or maybe cover it with some engine enamel or something? I know whatever the Saiga is finished it its some sort of paint... I just know eezox tends to dissolve paints. Kinda of a bummer.
Last edited:
Bill DeShivs
New member
Most cold blues use copper sulphate to color the steel.
arquebus357
New member
I've never noticed an odor while using Oxpho Blue,
Bill DeShivs
New member
This thread has nothing to do with Oxpho blue. He used a paste cold blue.
OP- the best thing you can do is oil it.
OP- the best thing you can do is oil it.
Dfariswheel
New member
Oil is not only your friend, it's absolutely necessary.
Due to the acid in cold blues, the cold blue can actually CAUSE rusting.
You have to thoroughly flush the surface with hot water, dry, then apply an oil to prevent the rusting.
Even then, don't trust it, watch the surface for a week or so to be sure you catch it if it starts to rust.
Due to the acid in cold blues, the cold blue can actually CAUSE rusting.
You have to thoroughly flush the surface with hot water, dry, then apply an oil to prevent the rusting.
Even then, don't trust it, watch the surface for a week or so to be sure you catch it if it starts to rust.
Buzzard Bait
New member
Read the instructions
It wood seem that the manufacturer of the bluing your using would have instructions on how to use it
bb
It wood seem that the manufacturer of the bluing your using would have instructions on how to use it
bb
Dfaris, thanks man kinda the vibe I got from the stuff. Currently I am soaking it in oil in the shop I think I will just remove it and spray with engine paint. Bake that on. Any suggestions on removing and neutralizing the acids? I kinda regret using it at this point. Product seems quite counter productive to just leaving the steel bare. I've washed it three times under hot water air dry then eezox and let sit. Each time it's currently submerged in motor oil for several days as suggested on another forum we will see how that does. If it doesn't make a noticeable difference I'll have to strip it and redo it.
Buzzard I've read the instructions. But I appreciate the insight.
Buzzard I've read the instructions. But I appreciate the insight.
Last edited:
Gunplummer
New member
I never saw a cold, paste blue that was worth anything. It is a little expensive, but a bake on coating might be the way to go.
arquebus357
New member
I would still like to know exactly what cold blue paste was used. Oxpho Blue is available in paste form and It doesn't STINK.
The OP has decided to use engine block paint anyway.
The OP has decided to use engine block paint anyway.
Cold blue paste from Birchwood Casey
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Perma-Blue®-Liquid-Paste-Gun-Blue.aspx
It was supposed to work better then liquid stuff
So I ordered that. I tried two 'treatments' recommend on other forums neither worked. I plan to using bluing remover and engine paint tonight
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Perma-Blue®-Liquid-Paste-Gun-Blue.aspx
It was supposed to work better then liquid stuff
So I ordered that. I tried two 'treatments' recommend on other forums neither worked. I plan to using bluing remover and engine paint tonight
I'm working on an old 12 ga shotgun and all I used was Birchwood Casey cold blue and cold blue paste.
1. Cleaned/scrubbed/removed old bluing (wasn't much left) with BC blue remover, rinsed in water, blew the water off with an air hose, towel dried then dried with a heat gun.
2. Rubbed parts in cold blue, warm up the part with a heat gun (don't cook it, just warm it up), let sit for 10 min or so then rinse in cold water, dry, lightly rub down with 000 steel wool, blow off the part with compressed air.
3. Repeat step 2 about 8 to 10 times. (This could take hours so clear your schedule.)
4. After you feel you have blued the part enough, coat it liberally in gun oil and let sit.
5. Come back the next day and coat the parts in gun oil again. I do this about 4 or 5 times.
6. When you are ready to assemble, wipe the parts down as well as you can so they aren't sloppy wet with oil but are still oiled.
*Note: You should be wearing gloves for every step of this process, until you get to the oiling, so that you do not transfer oils from your skin to the steel.
1. Cleaned/scrubbed/removed old bluing (wasn't much left) with BC blue remover, rinsed in water, blew the water off with an air hose, towel dried then dried with a heat gun.
2. Rubbed parts in cold blue, warm up the part with a heat gun (don't cook it, just warm it up), let sit for 10 min or so then rinse in cold water, dry, lightly rub down with 000 steel wool, blow off the part with compressed air.
3. Repeat step 2 about 8 to 10 times. (This could take hours so clear your schedule.)
4. After you feel you have blued the part enough, coat it liberally in gun oil and let sit.
5. Come back the next day and coat the parts in gun oil again. I do this about 4 or 5 times.
6. When you are ready to assemble, wipe the parts down as well as you can so they aren't sloppy wet with oil but are still oiled.
*Note: You should be wearing gloves for every step of this process, until you get to the oiling, so that you do not transfer oils from your skin to the steel.
Attachments
Last edited:
Bill DeShivs
New member
The odor is not acid, it's copper sulphate.
No matter how you apply it, how many times you apply it, whether you heat it, or whatever "secret" you use-it's still cold bluing. It will wear off quickly, probably stink, and quite possibly promote rusting.
Cold bluing is not the same as real bluing (either hot process or rust process.) Cold bluing is for touch ups, not for bluing large pieces (regardless of WHAT the package says.)
You are actually better off spraying your gun with Krylon spray paint than using any cold bluing solution to refinish large parts.
No matter how you apply it, how many times you apply it, whether you heat it, or whatever "secret" you use-it's still cold bluing. It will wear off quickly, probably stink, and quite possibly promote rusting.
Cold bluing is not the same as real bluing (either hot process or rust process.) Cold bluing is for touch ups, not for bluing large pieces (regardless of WHAT the package says.)
You are actually better off spraying your gun with Krylon spray paint than using any cold bluing solution to refinish large parts.
It just has an acidic smell is what am referring
Yeah i am super disappointed in cold blue after using it this one time. Never again. Im trying to do as much damage control as possible then sending to get cerakoted to hopefully seal it in. If that doesn't work just ditch it at a loss lesson learned. I don't mess around with rust Causing things and my guns. I've got to much that i cant replace.
Yeah i am super disappointed in cold blue after using it this one time. Never again. Im trying to do as much damage control as possible then sending to get cerakoted to hopefully seal it in. If that doesn't work just ditch it at a loss lesson learned. I don't mess around with rust Causing things and my guns. I've got to much that i cant replace.