Cleaning time...

[jg0001]

I'm curious as too how much time people take to clean their semiautos... I simply referring to a once every few hundred rounds cleaning on a basic breakdown, nothing requiring any tools.

Myself, I tend to shoot both my guns at the range and then clean them both at once. I find that I usually spend about 90 minutes doing so, and in the process, I use an entire small package of cleaning squares (patches), though mostly b/c I use 2 at once.

My usual process is as follows. I'd appreciate any commentary or suggestions as I'm still rather new to this:

-disassembly-
(1) remove any magazines, ensure gun is empty
(2) disassemble gun into main components (again, nothing requiring tools)
-cleaning-
(3) clean INSIDE of barrel with patches on a rod
(4) clean outside of barrel (usually not too dirty except near the entry point)
(5) clean lower frame with well damped patches, paying special attention to the magazine well and the 'ramp' (sorry for my lack of terminology here) -- i.e. usually the dirtiest spot is right where the bullet is ignited, no surprise... I go over this area 2-3x or more until clean
(6) clean trigger area)
(7) clean slide, with special care placed on the ejection port and the muzzle hole
(8) clean guide rod
(9) clean spring (lightly, I just hold a patch in my palm and zip the spring through it a few times)
--lubing--
(10) LIGHTLY lube inside of barrel with patches on a rod
(11) lightly lube outside of barrel, including any latches (sorry again, don't know the technical terms)
(12) lightly lube mag well and lower frame (with a tiny drop around the hammer spring)
(13) with spring over guide rod, lube both
(14) run a DRY patch through the barrel
(15) lube slide rails immediately prior to assembly
(16) re-assemble
(17) very lightly lube exterior metal (as in barely)
(18) with the gun empty, rack the slide numerous times to work in the lube on the slide
(19) wipe down entire gun with a soft cloth, cleaning any excess fluids

As I said, any comments are welcome. I don't go too nuts trying to lube every last part, and I do try not to overlube. If anything, I lube then 'dry' (though never completely) every part needing lube. I pay special attention not to leave anything more than the slightest sheen of lube inside the barrel.

[Question: what, if anything, should I be doing to the magazines? I have 5 per gun, so they only see about 2-3 full loads each during a session.]

 

[johnnypi45]

The only thing i can actually recommend at this point is to use an appropriately sized bore brush. This will most likely save you some patches, as it will loosen up the carbon in the barrel before you start in with patches. Check out http://theboxotruth.com/docs/edu47.htm. This is just one guys method, but i've been doing nearly the same for a long long time, and it's always worked out well for me.

 

[jg0001]

Something about rubbing a hard briseled brush into that delicate area bothers me... yeah, I know I should, but I don't... which is probably why I end up using a ton of patches on the barrel cleaning.

Also, I've heard numerous people talk about using a mini toothbrush (kids size) on other areas of the gun. I tried this once, but it seemed like more work than it was worth.

 

[jg0001]

http://theboxotruth.com/docs/edu47.htm

Cool stuff... at the end, he says the whole process should take about 5-10 minutes... I must be really slow or overly careful as I take a lot longer than that (excluding initial setup and cleanup (of my workspace afterwards), I'm still at 20-30 minutes per gun)).

 

[PetahW]

JMO, but that's waaaaay too much time to spend on a gun that has zilch wrong with it.

I've been giving my pistols & revolvers a dunk 'n swirl in a pail of clean kerosene once every 5-7 range sessions, after first removing any grips and/or mags. The mags get a bath, too.
The bores get a pass with a brush as req'd.

An exterior wipedown with an oily rag, reassembly, and they've been good to go w/o issues - since the late 1960's.

.

 

[johnnypi45]

I understand your hesitation with using a hard bristled brush; however, the composition of the metal of the brush is most often bronze whereas your barrel is one of many steel compositions. The brush is MUCH less hard than your barrel. It took me a long time to get over this fact too, but after just trying it a few times and closely inspecting the barrel for any signs of damages, I was swayed by the amount of time that this cuts off your cleaning. And after finding absolutely no damages, why not stick with this method? Either way, I would suggest you do what is comfortable with you. If you're not comfortable using a bore brush, then don't. It just may take you a little longer to get your firearm to the cleanliness that you are seeking. Happy shooting

Petey

 

[johnnypi45]

Oh and ps....theboxotruth is an amazing website. He really has a lot of knowledge to offer on a lot of different gun related subjects. A truly great resource.

Petey

 

[Magyar]

Ha..Ha..Ha..Who said WD-40 was obsolete? Nice link...I use WD-40 at the very first in the barrel, then on to Hoppes #9, and on to Lead Remover cloth, and then....Does it ever end?

 

[woad_yurt]

Having never met, and judging from the time you take to clean your weapons and the fastidious listing of steps in your post, you seem to be a meticulous person. Do you find that it's relaxing to sit down and clean them after shooting? Afriend of mine likes to detail clean his stuff a lot. He said it's the same as knitting was to his grandmother.

If not and if I'm way off base, then there are a few things to do that'll save you a lot of time. Using the aforementioned bore brush is one. The other is giving dry lube a shot. That teflon based stuff is great. It works just fine and it doesn't attract fouling, dirt, dust, etc. Particles don't stick to it like they do with oils. I have 2 Marlin 60s and their guts used to get filthy in no time; they're known for that. With the dry lube, it seems like I'm getting 4-5 times as many rounds fired before it needs a good strip down. The kerosene dunk & swirl is a real thorough time saver, too.

Note: Given enough usage, your steel barrel will wear down the bronze brush, not vice versa; it's much, much harder than the bronze.

 

[KCWebPlaza]

WD40? I was surprised to see theboxoftruth using this product for cleaning a pistol. I've read so many places how WD40 is NOT a good product to use on firearms. At least to lubricate and protect. I know the article uses oil and grease to lubricate after the WD40 cleaning ... but I'll stick to my WeaponShield and grease for the slides

 

[PointOneSeven]

Every once in a while I like to WD40 a gun until all the gunk hoses out. Then it's back to the regular cleaning schedule.

I don't care if a glock can take a dishwasher ride, I'm not trying it .

 

[BigJimP]

JG001

I like your approach / but I soak the inside of the barrel for a few minutes in solvent on the bench / then I brush the inside of the barrel - and it won't hurt a thing. Run a couple of patches thru - repeat until clean.

I will often take 2 or 3 guns to the range / and I probably averge 10 - 15 min per gun ( but I've been doing it awhile ...). I do take the grips off as well ( and use a bushing wrench on a 1911 ) - so a screwdriver and a bushing wrench ...

I use a toothbrush occasionally - but Q tips / patches / paper towels take care of most of it. I clean every gun that I shoot / when I get home from the range or the next morning.

 

[jg0001]

To yurt, yeah, I do kind of find the cleaning time a bit relaxing. I usually do it while watching some prime time television, usually something I've DVRd where guns are involved in some way (sets the mood).

I understand the metal hardness bit, but somehow could never get past my own irrational feelings about potentially scratching the gleamingly smooth interior of my barrels. I'll give it a go next time around.

Regarding 'dip' methods... I don't have enough cleaning solvent to do that, nor do I necessarily want to keep a vat of solvent (even if covered up) of any size lying around (I have a small child). Also, my two main handguns (actually the only ones I own until my new permits come in) both have Crimson Trace lasergrips and I don't want to constantly remove them. I know they supposedly don't require rezeroing, though I don't see how that's possible unless everything really screws down exactly the way it was before. Every now and then I'll change the batteries on them and have to remove them anyway.

Good to hear WD-40 is perhaps not the thing to use. I haven been using Hoppes stuff and wouldn't want to use something if even 5% of the population on here thought it was a bad idea.

 

[Smaug]

It depends on the guns.

I have just gotten into revolvers again. I had forgotten what a royal pain in the butt they are to clean compared to autos.

It took me at least an hour and a half to clean them.

Cleaning two autos would have taken half the time or less, especially combat autos. (22s tend to need more cleaning, due to the cheap ammo and powder used)

Cleaning my Glock only took about 15 minutes. The barrel stayed pretty clean. It only needed a wet patch and a dry patch most times. The action only needed cleaning with a dry brush. It didn't really need lube either. That was by far the easiest gun to clean.

Those who say revolvers are easy to clean are either not doing a good job of it, or they have not done it.

jg - It seems like you're doing way too much lubing. This will make the guns get dirtier when you shoot. Only lube parts that need to be lubed, unless you're storing them long term. Just lightly lube the slide rails and pivot points.

Magazines are especially important to keep clean, since the reliability of the pistol depends on the magazines operating smoothly. On most magazines, there's a hole in the bottom. Push the spring in with an allen wrench and slide the magazine cap off forward, being careful to catch the magazine spring and bottom as it shoots out the bottom of the mag. Then, clean the follower, the spring, and the inside of the magazine. Don't lube it, or if you must, use a dry lube.

 

[Smaug]

Oh, one other thing jg and others using Hoppe's #9.

Next time you buy solvent, try Hoppes Elite. It is just as strong, not as oily, and doesn't have fumes. It is well worth the extra buck or two. My wife used to dread when I would clean my guns. It would stink up the whole house and immediately gave her a headache. Those of you who are married know that a spouse with a headache isn't a good thing.

I stubbornly went forward. Eventually, I got a headache too eventually. We had to open the windows in the 35°F outdoor temperature just to air out the place. Inhaling fumes kills brain cells, which are irreplaceable. I could only imagine how many I killed during those Hoppes #9 years.

Spend the extra few bucks, it is worth it.

Another thing worth noting is that Elite works better on burnt-on carbon than #9 does. Says it is biodegradable too. Wow.

Side note: Anyone in my geographic area who wants to buy a full, big, unused bottle of Hoppes #9, still in the box for $5, let me know.

 

[jg0001]

Are you sure the Hoppes Elite doesn't have something even more potent, just less smelly? If you're right, I'll definitely look into it as I have the same open window issues as you.