cleaning the brass on 1858 revolver

DUNITALL

New member
I have an old b p revolver that the brass is very dirty. Cleaned the out side with brasso but the inter parts are dirty and was thinking of putting it my sonic cleaner but can't get the barrel off. any suggestions? Can I soak it in vinegar with the barrel on, will the vinegar discolor the barrel?
 

maillemaker

New member
OK I assume this is a brass-framed revolver because on a steel-framed revolver only the trigger guard is brass and it comes off with a single screw.

Vinegar will strip the bluing off of any blued parts.

Steve
 

Hawg

New member
If the insides are clean don't worry about the discoloration. It's just going to get that way again. Personally I don't like shiny brass.
 

Hawg

New member
If it's real residue then clean it. If it's just tarnish on the inside it's not going to hurt or affect anything.
 
Howdy

You did pull the wedge almost all the way out to free the barrel, right?

Try using the loading lever as a ram to pull the barrel off. Place the cylinder so the web between two chambers is under the ram and use the leverage of the loading lever to push the barrel off. Be gentle, don't overdo it. There are two pins set into the frame, and there are two holes in the barrel that fit over the pins. If the barrel is rusted onto those pins, it can be difficult removing the barrel. The last thing you want to do is to pull the pins out of the frame. If the barrel is still stubborn, try some penetrating fluid between the frame and the barrel.

Forget about vinegar, it will remove the blue on the steel.

Once you have the gun apart scrub everything with hot soap and water to remove the old BP fouling. When everything is clean and BONE DRY, coat everything with a light coating of Ballistol to prevent rust and put everything back together again.

Forget about trying to keep the brass frame shiny, it will just tarnish again, and you may overdo it with your polishing.
 

JACKlangrishe

New member
I believe he's referring to a brass '58 remmy clone.

From my, albeit limited, knowledge.. the 1858 barrel can be a challenge to disconnect from the frame, and most don't advice novices to take on the task.

..and be careful with the brass frame if you do try, as it can easily warp.
 
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Model12Win

Moderator
I wouldn't bother.

Them boys during the war or on the plains didn't usually bother to polish their brass. The dulling of brass was just accepted back then.

Today's generation feels the need to shine them damn things, but in truth, it's stupid and would be considered queer back then.
 

freedom475

New member
Today's generation feels the need to shine them damn things, but in truth, it's stupid and would be considered queer back then.

Can I get an Amen!...LOL too funny. You guys are brutal :D

You did pull the wedge almost all the way out to free the barrel, right?

Oh and good luck finding the wedge on your 58! :confused::p Nicely done DJ:D
 
No ammonia. If you want to polish the brass (and I wouldn't), tape the barrel up to protect it and have at it with a polisher like Brasso. I don't think it's worth the time.
 

drobs

New member
Model12Win said:
I wouldn't bother.

Them boys during the war or on the plains didn't usually bother to polish their brass. The dulling of brass was just accepted back then.

Today's generation feels the need to shine them damn things, but in truth, it's stupid and would be considered queer back then.

I'm curious which uniformed Army on the Plains didn't believe in weapons and gear maintenance? You really think an officer that went to West Point, Virginia Military Academy, or the Citadel would allow his troops to have tarnished brass on their weapons or accoutrements?

Highly doubtful. Polishing brass and shinning leather ain't anything new. It's been going on forever.

Doing a quick google search proves my point to be true:

"inspections must be thorough, the men appearing upon them with boots or shoes and belts properly blackened, brass cleaned and clothing in good order" - G.O. 12, Headquarters, 4th Brigade First Division, I Army Corps, April 8, 1863

"We were required to keep all the metal parts (except the butt-plate) as bright and shining as silver dollars. I have put in many an hour working on my gun [an Austrian rifle-musket] with an old rag and powdered dirt, and a corn cob, or pine stick, polishing the barrel, the bands, lockplate and trigger-guard until they were fit to pass inspection." - Leander Stillwell, 61st Illinois, Bolivar, Tennessee

"Our spare time is generally spent scrubbing up equipments. Rifles are atomized, screw drivers, emery paper, buckskin, oil, etc. brought into requisition as a mass [detail] got up on short notice comparable with house cleaning. Daubs of rust and dust get in your nose, and your hands become coal-colored when there is no water to wash [with]. In some circumstances, one feels as if he had been dipped in cobwebs" - Edward Wightman, 9th New York

"It is Sunday and . . . this morning we had inspection at nine o'clock. At these inspections, we are required to have our brass, iron, steels, and leather all brightly polished" - Frederick Pettit, 100th PA, Crab Orchard KY


http://www.cwreenactors.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-27135.html

And more reading on polishing brass can be seen here:
http://sykesregulars.org/school-of-instruction/108-polishing-brass-and-rifle-parts
 
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DUNITALL

New member
I think the barrel is on there to stay so I think I will use a lot of elbow grease to clean the inside area where the cylinder goes and try gun scrub on the places on the inside where all the parts go that have sticky residue. Thanks for your advice
 

foolzrushn

New member
drobs - I still use Brasso, never heard of it before the service. But your quotes remind me that we used what ever we had to clean and polish things. Many smokers would use cigarette ashes and newspaper on their brass. Worked great but slow. Used toliet paper for almost everything.

dunitall - Non-jell plain tooth paste works pretty well, and will wash up with water if you don't have a fine non-chemical polish. Baking soda is a salt though, and I wouldn't want it to seep between two dissimilar metals.
 
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Hawg

New member
places on the inside where all the parts go that have sticky residue

Using regular gun oil or petroleum based oil leaves a sticky residue but there shouldn't be any on the insides. Residue from bp fouling washes out with water when you use vegetable based lubes.
 

drobs

New member
foolzrushn - Prior service Army Reserves here.

I used Mother's Mag Polish on my Uberti 1873's brass trigger guard and grip frame w/ so so results. It still has that dull finish to me, which I'm not a fan of. Might have to get a can of Brasso.

DUNITALL - careful on the inside of the frame - lots of razor sharp edges in there.
 

maillemaker

New member
Yeah I'm with drobs I bet regular army folks were polishing the -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED- out of things. Irregulars/cavalry may have not cared as much, I don't know.

Personally I regularly polish the brass on my long arms and revolvers every couple of competitions.

I use Mothers metal polish but any of them will do the trick.

Steve

Edit: I can't believe this place censors cuss words.
 

Hawg

New member
I don't think the Army was issuing brass framed Remington revolvers.

Can't issue something that didn't exist but the trigger guards were still brass back then. I don't know about all the northern commanders but a lot of them made troops polish the bluing off of Enfield rifles.
 
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