I purchase a 1981 python. Shoots great and I love it. I shot it few times and cleaning was no problem. Last time I went to shoot I was shooting 38 special and I guess it's some what dirty ammo. I cleaned out barell and there were flakes of lead. So barell is clean but the chambers have rings of dirt I guess right where brass end. My usual way of solvent and brush can't get rid of them. Another problem is that the front of the cylinders have some lead on them. I thought it were scratches because it's shiny but I figured out its lead blowing back in the space between cylinder and barell. Now I am wondering how do I clean that without scratching the gun?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Cleaning colt python
- Thread starter Ultra12
- Start date
Whirlwind06
New member
I use .45 or .40 cal brass brush and CLP to clean the cylinders. I use a brass chore boy and CLP to clean the front of the cylinder.
JT-AR-MG42
New member
I usually get by with a dedicated bore brush that is used for cleaning the chambers only.
Once used in the bore, a brush has been constricted too much for proper chamber cleaning.
A wet patch of solvent left overnight first might help as well.
A bronze toothbrush work the same on cylinder face, again, after a soaking.
Brownell's - sells all of the above as well as bronze chamber brushes.
You can also get better brush life by rinsing the brushes into a cup of hot or boiling water when you are done cleaning to keep solvents from weakening the bristles.
Hope this helps, JT
Once used in the bore, a brush has been constricted too much for proper chamber cleaning.
A wet patch of solvent left overnight first might help as well.
A bronze toothbrush work the same on cylinder face, again, after a soaking.
Brownell's - sells all of the above as well as bronze chamber brushes.
You can also get better brush life by rinsing the brushes into a cup of hot or boiling water when you are done cleaning to keep solvents from weakening the bristles.
Hope this helps, JT
Strafer Gott
New member
I got pretty leaded up shooting 230gr LRN in a 1911. Shooters Choice seemed to loosen it up to where a brass brush could remove it. I used some of that yellow cloth lead remover as well. I'm a lot more careful about lube with lead bullets now.
Dfariswheel
New member
To clean the bore leading, buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.
It removes leading from the bore fast and with no soaking for hours or days.
The kit includes a special cleaning tip specifically to clean leading, copper bullet jacket, and carbon fouling off the critical forcing cone in the rear of the barrel.
This is the best, safest, and fastest way to clean the cone area whether you shoot lead or jacketed bullets.
For chambers, go the fastest, easiest, and most effective way: Buy a couple of bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's.
These are not just over-sized, they're made of much stiffer bristles than bore brushes.
Usually one pass though the chambers will remove all build up, including jacketed bullet fouling:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS-LEAD-REMOVER
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1287/Product/BRONZE-RIFLE-PISTOL-CHAMBER-BRUSHES
For the front of the cylinder, you're better off to leave it alone to prevent damaging the bluing. Clean the cylinder front only if the build up begins to affect cylinder rotation. Trying to make the front look like brand new and unfired will do damage to the finish.
On a blued gun, if you must clean it, buy a jar of Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
Put patches on the front of the cylinder and soak with the Slip 2000.
After about 15 minutes, scrub with a brass "toothbrush".
One treatment will usually remove all the fouling.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23534/Product/SLIP-2000-SOLVENTS
It removes leading from the bore fast and with no soaking for hours or days.
The kit includes a special cleaning tip specifically to clean leading, copper bullet jacket, and carbon fouling off the critical forcing cone in the rear of the barrel.
This is the best, safest, and fastest way to clean the cone area whether you shoot lead or jacketed bullets.
For chambers, go the fastest, easiest, and most effective way: Buy a couple of bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's.
These are not just over-sized, they're made of much stiffer bristles than bore brushes.
Usually one pass though the chambers will remove all build up, including jacketed bullet fouling:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS-LEAD-REMOVER
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1287/Product/BRONZE-RIFLE-PISTOL-CHAMBER-BRUSHES
For the front of the cylinder, you're better off to leave it alone to prevent damaging the bluing. Clean the cylinder front only if the build up begins to affect cylinder rotation. Trying to make the front look like brand new and unfired will do damage to the finish.
On a blued gun, if you must clean it, buy a jar of Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
Put patches on the front of the cylinder and soak with the Slip 2000.
After about 15 minutes, scrub with a brass "toothbrush".
One treatment will usually remove all the fouling.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23534/Product/SLIP-2000-SOLVENTS