cleaning advice

jimsbowies

New member
I'm about out of my regular cleaning and lube "stuff"and need to purchase more....Cleaning of Colts and Glocks...nothing else...

What are you experts recommending nowadays for both cleaning and lubrication....I shoot alot of factory reloads....FMJ is primary round in all of them...they're all 45's..both the Colts and Glocks...

Any new magic "stuff" out there? Thanks

:confused:
 

cheygriz

New member
MPro 7 is about as good as any of them for cleaning. It's also non-toxic.

For lubrication, I use nothing but Tetra. Used properly, it's dry, doesn't attract dirt, and lubes better than anything I've ever tried.

IMHO, I would advise anyone to avoid any lubricant that remains "wet" after application, and on handguns, at least I see no need for any kind of grease.
 

Rickmeister

New member
My favorite pairings are:

1) Hoppes #9 Nitro Solvent and Hoppes #9 Lubricant, or
2) Break-Free CLP and FP-10.

(For those really hard jobs, Break-Free's Powder Blast removes anything and everything. But it contains two suspected carcinogens, so use it at your own risk.)
 

AndABeer

New member
For stainless guns, I like Simple Green for cleaning. Breakfree for everythiong else.

Bore Snakes for cleaning the barrel work well for me.
 

S.F.S

New member
I have been using G96 Gun Treatment here lately and find that it cleans better than Break-Free CLP. So far it seems to lubricate things pretty well and doesn't seem to attract powder as much as Break-free.
It smells alot better also :D
 

Kermit

New member
My ankles are still healing from jumping on the boresnake bandwagon so hard :D They are easy to use & efficient.

Oh & you can't go wrong w/ MPro 7 & some Militec.
 
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FlyinGN

New member
I use brake cleaner bought from an auto parts store and break free for lubrication after.. The brake cleaner BLASTS away any and all fouling and dirt really nice too. Make sure you do this outside with safety glasses..

Frank
 

enfwago

New member
Another vote for Breakfree CLP. Haven't jumped on the Bore Snake bandwagon yet, but I am thinking about getting one to try out.
 

DenVas

New member
Ran across a new cleaner

I ran across the company, Novum Solutions, at the 2002 SHOT show and decided to give their Blue Wonder gun cleaner a try. A bit of background, I shoot between 7,000 and 12,000 rounds a year in varmint shooting, competition, hunting and just plain popping caps.Therefore, I need a cleaning solution that not only works quickly but one that actually works. I have also been concerned about the health risks of some chemicals used in most of the products that are or have been on the market. What I found is that it seems that Blue Wonder makes the process of removing the plastic sabot residue from black powder shooting, as well as the lead and copper oxide fouling out of our barrels, whether muzzleloaders or cartridge guns, much easier and less time consuming. And this is without the toxic risk of other solvents. When I asked the Novum people about their cleaner they said that the greenish blue tint I saw on my patches was the result of the cleaner being applied to the lead and copper oxide fouling created by the discharge of the firearm. It breaks them down into a harmless residue or chemical composition that can be easily removed. They claim that the cleaner not only removes any fouling residue that has been produced during the firing process, but it also strips all of the oils out of the metal of your firearms. It is because of this complete stripping action that you must re-oil your firearm inside and out prior to storing it so that you can insure its protection from the elements. I am not a chemist or scientist so I am not sure if I understand their molecular break down process explanation, but I do know that my guns are cleaner than they have been in a long time. Their web page is http://www.novumsolutions.com
 

bountyh

Moderator
Acetone for cleaning (which is the ingredient in the brake cleaner spray mentioned above). You can also get a gallon can of acetone at Home Depot for about $12 and put it in a peanut butter jar.

Lube is easy: Tetra gun grease or Wilson Ultima Lube.
 

bountyh

Moderator
A word about the new super "copper attacking" solvent cleaners for bore cleaning.... remember most steel has some copper in it. Stainless does. I was told over time these cleaners gradually cause degradation of the metal on the surface. I don't use them any more.
 

Firepower

New member
Any new magic "stuff" out there?

Hi Jim,
Well, it's not magic, and it's been around since 1988, but recently the formula was improved to meet MIL-L-63460D (Cleaner, Lubricant, & Preservative for weapons and weapons systems).
If I told you that this product would beat them all, I suppose you would smile, and say "...sure...right...", but I'm giving everyone the opportunity to see for themselves, at no charge, that it will.

Go here, http://www.fp10.com and take the "FP-10 Challenge".
It's free and it saves me a lot of typing in trying to convince folks that it does what I say it does. I'll put my FP-10 where my mouth is, anyday, and let it speak for itself...

Best regards,
George
 

bountyh

Moderator
I think FP-10 is good as well but I think it would be giving out incomplete information (IMO) to not mention that some points in a gun simply need to be lubed with a good grease to provide sufficient protection from wear. I always used liquid oils (including FP-10) and after about 20k rounds through my various wheelguns and autos, I saw measurable wear in some places. The worst was at the end of the crane tubes on the wheelguns since wear at that point causes cylinder end shake which changes the barrel cylinder gap. I was also seeing wear at the frame window for the "hand" which caused increase play in lockup. I saw wear on frame rails and slide lug cuts in autos.

I switched to using Tetra Gun grease and Wilson ultima lube on all key points (frame/slide rails, barrel lugs, sears, etc) and basically have seen wear on my guns stop or at least slow to where I can not see it. Grease is not perfect for everybody. In very cold weather, it could affect cycling. I have yet to see any problems in any of the ten handguns I own in about 40k rounds fired. Grease is more expensive and harder to apply, but I now use it exclusively except for parts which can not be lubed with it (and I use liquid oil there).
 

Ledbetter

New member
Acetone

Interesting to read that someone else uses an "alternative" cleaner.

What I use for initial cleaning is paint thinner aka varsol aka Stoddard solvent. Probably cheaper than acetone and one of the ingredients in Ed's Red, I believe. After the solvent removes most of the crud and carbon, I use bore cleaner for the lead, copper, etc.

For shotguns, usually all I need to use is paint thinner and Kroil. Much cheaper than bore solvent. First I put a wet patch over a brush and run it through one way. Repeat. Brush with Kroil and paint thinner. Repeat step one. Dry patch oily patch dry patch and you're done.
 

spleenandideal

New member
CLP for most everyday cleaning.

Tetra lube sparingly on trigger/sear/disconnector parts.

Tetra grease on most high-friction areas...rails, etc.

When needed, Hoppes #9, or Bore shine sparingly.
 

Chief Jones

New member
For Cleaning: Blue Wonder, Prestone Brake Cleaner
Lube: Militec1, Mobil 1, FP10
Grease: Lithium Grease from the auto parts store
 

sm

New member
FP-10 does it all for me, CLP

only time I use CRC Brakleen is when I get to clean someone else's gun - I'm in a hurry and need to blast out that grease,and junk. Once FP-10'd , don't get this buildup, so can CLP with one product. My stuff gets no grease.

Wear and reliability?? How's 2500 rds without cleaning? Just every 500 rds, a drop of FP-10 where needed. Kimber Custom Target, stainless. When I did clean I removed the grips, field stripped, and soaked in FP-10 using a casserole dish, brushed, soaked, dripped dry. Patched the bbl, reassembled.

In ~ 5k rds only one malf. bad factory round-low report, recoil.

My gunsmith could not believe it- "seen guns shot less with more wear due to improper cleaning and lubing "
 
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