Cleaning a blued Colt Python

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RimfireChris

New member
So a good friend of mine just picked up a Colt Python, 6" blued model, :D :D and asked me a lotta questions, most of which I could answer, but one I couldn't, so here it is. Is there anything special about cleaning that deep royal blueing? Specifically, are there any cleaners that should be avoided? It's going to be mostly a safe queen, so the cleanings won't be all that frequent nor vigorous. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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triumph666

New member
keep CLR and rust removers away from it.....like other poster said just gun solvent and gun oil and use nice soft patches
 
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KyJim

New member
Gun solvent and oil.

No stainless steel brushes or Wipe-Away patches.
Click to expand...
+1. Maybe use a nylon brush. For solvent, I use either Hoppes #9 (when cleaning outside or when the wife's not home - :) ) or BreakFree CLP (no odor). Other products are also available. The CLP or Eezox are both good for a light coating on the gun for rust prevention.
 
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old bear

New member
All of the above it great advise and I will only offer one other suggestion remove the grips when cleaning. This will prevent solvents from getting on the grips, and it will allow you to clean the frame area normally covered by the grips.
 
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Standing Wolf

Member in memoriam
Let me add two thoughts, please:

  1. The easiest way I've found to clean the cylinder face is to remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame, (that's what the bolt cap and spring-loaded detent at the front right side of the frame by the trigger guard are for,) soak them a good long while in Hoppe's No. 9, and use a bronze-bristled brush on the face. Bronze is softer than steel, so as long as you use reasonable pressure, you won't harm the bluing. You'll leave a bit of bronze behind on the steel. Remove it with more Hoppe's No. 9 and a Nylon-bristled brush.
  2. The easiest way I've found to clean the cylinder chambers is to remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame and soak them a good long while in Hoppe's No. 9 as above, push soft cotton patches through the chambers to remove the worst of the crud, and trek out to the garage for the variable speed drill. I'm going to drill out the crud? No. I screw a .40 or .45 caliber bronze brush into a four-inch cleaning rod, (you've got a broken or bent one somewhere, I'm sure: we all do,) chuck that into my drill, and use that at moderate speed to attack the accumulated crud. If you use a stainless steel brush, you'll ruin the chambers. Make it bronze. Take your time. This is still considerably faster than doing it by hand with a .38 caliber brush. Once the chambers look clean, switch to a Nylon .40 or .45 caliber brush to remove any bronze from the earlier brush, then follow with more Hoppe's No. 9 and patches.
Nota bene: No, I don't own stock in whoever owns Hoppe's these days. I've just been using it 30-some years without problem, although it should never be used on nickel-plated guns. Using .40 or .45 caliber brushes wears them out. Brushes are cheaper than time. I've always heavily oiled cleaned guns, wiped off the excess, and run dry patches through bores and chambers about a week later: inexplicably, more excess oil and sometimes a trace of crud show up.
 
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stevieboy

New member
Here's an alternative way to clean. I brush my bore and cylinder with a bronze brush without first soaking in solvent or spraying solvent into the chambers. I've discovered that a vigorous brushing with a dry brush will remove 99% of the crud that builds up. The rest will usually come out fairly easily with a few patches soaked in solvent. One way to make the brushing effective is to use a brush that is slightly larger in diameter than the gun's caliber. So, for example, I generally use a .40 cal. brush to brush out my .357s.

I agree with the other posters, most lead removing cloth will also remove blued surfaces. Brownells markets a gun cloth that is rated as safe for blued guns. I've used it successfully on my blued revolvers. However, mine are also older guns that came to me with a fair bit of surface wear so I won't absolutely guarantee that it doesn't remove some blueing. Doesn't appear to to the naked eye, however.
 
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Dfariswheel

New member
An even gentler chamber cleaning method is to buy a couple of bronze chamber cleaning brushes from Brownell's.

These are special extra-stiff, over-size brushes made expressly for cleaning chambers. These work better than using softer bronze bristle over-caliber bore brushes.

Use by hand on a rod.
Just "screw" the brush into the chamber, rotate a turn or two, push all the way through, then pull it back out.
Chamber is clean, and cleaned FAST.
 
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The Shadow

New member
I also endorse the use Brownell's bronze chamber brushes with superb results, also recommended earlier by dfariswheel. The only difference is that I use it in conjunction with Ballistol CLP. If you're not familiar with Ballistol, it was formulated as a ballistic oil, thus the name, for use as an effective cleaner, to dissolve traces of lead, copper, brass, lead, etc. It's safe to use on any gun finish, including Colt's Royal Blue, CCH, nickel, SS, polished chrome, or whatever the finish. It was formulated to protect against rust, and doesn't gum up and harden. Eliminates the need to aggressively scrape or brush the bore. Spray into the barrel and chamber, rotate the gun around so the liquid reaches all parts and let set for 20-30 minutes, allowing it to break down any build up. Now use the bronze brush to remove the residue, followed by some dry clean patches.

Also, there's no need to remove your grips to clean, because Ballistol lubricates, protects and restores exotic wood, ivory, stag, bone, etc. I don't like removing grips unless being fitted for some customs. Also good to help restore, lubricate and protect your leather goods. Go to ballistol.com for more info and to purchase.

Thoroughly wipe down and remove any access oil on the guns exterior surface with clean micro fibre cloths, preparing the gun for a few final application of Renaissance Wax. This wax was formulated by the British Museum over 50 years ago to restore and protect priceless antiques, firearms, paintings and other rare collectibles. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. Used to revitalize and guard against humidity, heat, dust, aging and normal wear. I prefer using my fingers to apply the Ren Wax on the metal and any grip materials, and again recommend using a clean micro fibre rag as a buffing cloth. It's available for purchase on line from Restorer Supplies at restorersupplies.com.

I'd imagine this will give you a little something more to think about.

The Shadow
 
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ClydeFrog

Moderator
Posts, tidbits, Brownells...

I'd agree with most of the member remarks posted thus far.
I'd add that you may want to get or read the Colt Python .357magnum DA revolver owners manual or guide if available from Colt Mtg.
www.Brownells.com can be a great resource too. :)
Flitz, Ballistol, Mpro7/LPX, Eezox or Gunzilla could do very well to clean/protect a Colt Python.
ClydeFrog
 
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