Choke re-sized...
- Thread starter hogdogs
- Start date
oneounceload
Moderator
Because if it is not done properly, you can very easily screw up your barrel by taking not enough, too much, or the worst case scenario, taking some out off center and now having a gun that does not shoot anywhere near POI/POA
Brent, I like the way you think. My thought is you can do it yourself, or you can take it to a gunsmith and let him use his brake hone and caliper and then you can feel better because he is a "Perfessional". Bottom line is, since I follow your posts, I have to think this is going to occur on a Mossberg pumpgun, so your liability is a replacement barrel, or probably about what you would pay a gunsmith.
knight0334
New member
You can hone out a choke with a break hone.
However if you have a fixed choke you may want to pay strict attention to the inside contour as you perform the task. Some barrel manufacturers have a long taper constriction, some a short taper.
If you have a removable choke, do not hone near the end of the tube the meets up inside near the barrel - you will create a step, which you do not want.
However if you have a fixed choke you may want to pay strict attention to the inside contour as you perform the task. Some barrel manufacturers have a long taper constriction, some a short taper.
If you have a removable choke, do not hone near the end of the tube the meets up inside near the barrel - you will create a step, which you do not want.
Actually, I feel much better that I did it myself... While a failure has happened once or twice, I rarely do more harm than good on a project...
I haven't "farmed out" a repair or project in ferever...
From my redneck repairs to all small appliances and electric tools (all types) to larger appliance repairs to all types, all things fuel fired from small engines to outboards and on up and gun repair/mod are just a few...
As for project, I currently have none. It is regarding the .410 gun cruffster has just took to the field with... I know a brake hone would be too large but it got me thinkin' in case a come across a longer barrel equipped gun deal. I won't pass on a full choke gun just 'cuz I don't like full choke guns for my needs...
Brent
I was just referring to fixed choke barrels... as for cone, I would approach this like a cylinder in a motor, If your crosshatch pattern is consistent, you naturally hone proportionately to an initial shape. oneounceload
Moderator
Brent - by the time you buy the stuff, a smith could already have it done for less in most cases......
knight0334
New member
Go for it then... You'd be doing nothing more than what a smith would do.
Once you're done with the honing stones, I personally would polish the entire bore with a bore mop and some Flitz.
The insides of my bores(and chambers) of all my rifles, shotties, and handguns are all like mirrors. Accuracy for rifled barrels and patterns for smoothbores improved afterwards. And cleaning is much easier without the extra scoring of an unpolished bore.
Once you're done with the honing stones, I personally would polish the entire bore with a bore mop and some Flitz.
The insides of my bores(and chambers) of all my rifles, shotties, and handguns are all like mirrors. Accuracy for rifled barrels and patterns for smoothbores improved afterwards. And cleaning is much easier without the extra scoring of an unpolished bore.
Brent,
My shooting buddy, who has a virtual machine shop in his garage, uses a brake cylinder hone to successfully open chokes as his tool of choice. The ones he did for me pattered well; but, they were screw-ins not barrels. He did full barrels as well -- used a lathe, not a hand drill.
I don't think I'd try it freehand, I don't have your confidence. Is there some way you could make a fixture to keep your drill and barrel reasonably co-axial?
Don't overlook the obvious: don't try it on chromed barrels.
Z
My shooting buddy, who has a virtual machine shop in his garage, uses a brake cylinder hone to successfully open chokes as his tool of choice. The ones he did for me pattered well; but, they were screw-ins not barrels. He did full barrels as well -- used a lathe, not a hand drill.
I don't think I'd try it freehand, I don't have your confidence. Is there some way you could make a fixture to keep your drill and barrel reasonably co-axial?
Don't overlook the obvious: don't try it on chromed barrels.
Z
oneounceload
Moderator
You buy one of the ones I'm fixing to sell, I'll ship it to him!