Charter Arms trigger sticks

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Carmady

New member
It's an older one from about the 1980s.

Sometimes the hammer will go back about 1/4"-5/16" and the trigger stops, won't go back any further. Shaking it or repetitive pulling on the trigger helps to get it going again.

While dry firing it often seems to stop on the same cylinder (but not always the same cylinder), and very rarely gets through three cylinders without getting stuck.

Any ideas as to what would cause this?
 
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G

g.willikers

New member
The ones from that time period have the most quality control complaints.
From the description it sounds like a problem best looked at by a qualified gunsmith or maybe sent to Charter.
Doubt if it can be assayed or cured from here.
But we can try.
Now, that's assuming the way you're using the trigger isn't causing it.
Some revolvers just plain don't like their triggers being pulled and released real slow.
Does it do this when pulling the trigger and releasing it rapidly double action?
How about when cocking the hammer and releasing it single action?
 
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g.willikers

New member
Not real sure of the dates and such for the "good ones", other than the original company made them in Bridgeport, Conn, without the problems that cropped up later.
Might have been until '84 or so.
There's plenty of info on the web about it.
But try the stuff above and report back.
 
C

Carmady

New member
1) Now, that's assuming the way you're using the trigger isn't causing it.
2) Some revolvers just plain don't like their triggers being pulled and released real slow.
3) Does it do this when pulling the trigger and releasing it rapidly double action?
4) How about when cocking the hammer and releasing it single action?

Thanks. I added the numbers to match my answers.

1) At first, it seemed to ONLY happen when the trigger was pulled, meaning if 6 o'clock is pulling straight back, pulling at 4-5 o'clock would cause it to stick. I think it's progressed a little and isn't as predictable.

2) I haven't been dry firing slow, not at all.

3) Yes.

4) Works 100%, see following post.

The most consistent symptom is the distance of hammer travel prior to stopping, that's right at 5/16", maybe a hair more.
 
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C

Carmady

New member
SA vs DA

SA appears to work 100%.

When it sticks in DA I can keep my finger on the trigger (trigger doesn't come back any further) and manually pull the hammer back about an additional 1/8", but not far enough to cock it.

If I let the hammer down and release the trigger, SA works 100% after being stuck in DA.
 
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MrBorland

New member
Does it only happen during dry fire? What about dry fire with empty cases in the chambers?

I'm not familiar with the working of CA revolvers, but I assume they utilize a star ratchet/hand system to push the cylinder. Take a close look at the condition of the ratchets - if one or more are galled, it could certainly affect the DA pull.

Also, see how much the ratchet can rotate inside the cylinder while holding the cylinder. A (very) little wouldn't be bad, but if there's a lot of slop, it can effectively change the geometry of the ratchet/hand interaction while the trigger's being pulled. This slop can often be taken up by inserting rounds or empty cases, which is why I asked about dry fire with an empty cylinder.
 
C

Carmady

New member
"Does it only happen during dry fire? What about dry fire with empty cases in the chambers?"

I haven't fired it yet, and all dry firing has been with snap-caps.

The ratchet looks very good, the lock-up is very good.

I've removed the grips and cylinder, and the rest of it is now soaking in Ed's Red.
 
L

lee n. field

New member
Charter Arms trigger sticks
Click to expand...

As described, I would send it in to Charter. It will cost, as this if from before the current incarnation of the company. I read very good things about their service of the older guns.
 
L

lee n. field

New member
Fortunately, they are easy to disassemble.
Click to expand...

Unfortunatly, it's a PITA to get the trigger re-installed.

Charter has a video on the process, that makes it look easy. Wish I'd had that, when I disassembled mine.
 
C

Carmady

New member
Thanks for the info and videos. I didn't see the CA factory videos when I searched last night.

I put the cylinder back in and it's a lot better. Hopefully that will do the trick.
 
T

T. O'Heir

New member
Good news is that the model of Charter Arms revolver doesn't matter. Innards are the same. Apparently, neither does when it was made. The current CA will fix old models for a $49.95 charge that covers all shipping, handling, and labor. Plus the cost of any parts.
http://www.charterarms.com/pages/contact-us
"...4-5 o'clock would cause it to stick..." Sounds like worn trigger/sear parts. The manual on Steve's Pages is a poor copy. Hard to read.
 
C

CaptainO

Moderator
Send it back to Charter Arms. For the $50.00 + parts and shipping it wil be well worth the expense. (I have a Stratford Bulldog 3" barreled model chambered for the .44 S&W Special). I would do this so that the gun is brought back to it's original specifications.

You should be "good to go". :)
 
C

Carmady

New member
I let it drip dry over night since it had been submerged in ATF, and this morning it got a good cleaning. While cleaning I noticed some light between the sideplates and the backstrap. There's a screw at the top of the backstrap which is hidden when the grips are installed, and it was loose. I removed the screw, cleaned and dried the adjoining areas as well as I could, applied some blue 242 to the male and female threads, and reinstalled the screw. After it set about an hour the grips and snap-caps were reinstalled, and it cycled 100 times DA with no trace of sticking. Success. Thanks again for all the help, links, and advice.
 
C

CaptainO

Moderator
Glad to hear the it was simply a matter of cleaning. So often a bit of "elbow grease" and/or "chemical coaxing" is all that's needed to rectify a problem.

I am happy that you resolved the situation with a minimum expenditure of time, money and effort.

Take it out and shoot the daylights out of it! :D :cool:
 
C

Carmady

New member
Well, I'm having the same problem with a different gun. Iirc, the gun discussed above was a 80s? Police Undercover, 6-shot .38 on the BD frame. It acted up after my last post (#16), so I sent it back to Charter Arms and they fixed it, and I sold it afterwards. I believe they replaced the cylinder stop.

I was just searching here and found this thread.

I tried to study it some, and it looks like the cylinder is popping back up (getting released prematurely) into the cylinder stop slot/notch, and preventing the hand from advancing the cylinder.

I think there's a connection between the cylinder stop and the trigger, like pulling the trigger lowers the cylinder stop while raising the hand which turns the cylinder. But sometimes the cylinder stop pops back up and jams it DA. SA works 100%, just like before.

I'm not sure if the trigger and cylinder stop come in contact, but that's the only thing that makes sense to me at the moment.

I can't tell much by the exploded view. Any ideas?

Edit: found something good, @0:58 it shows the trigger/cylinder stop relationship, and it looks like pulling the trigger lowers the cylinder stop. That's my guess where the trouble is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZk_eAMGrWk&t=100s
 
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B

Buckeye!

New member
CHARCO marked ones seemed to have problems .. I had a CHARCO 44 spl which ran great .. The Charter 2000 seems to be where they got it straightened out ...
Charters CS is grade A
 
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