Case belling question -- newbie.

[Ed Dixon]

Should cases be belled just enough to have virtually the whole bullet perched on the top and then let the seating plug force it down? Or should a case be belled enough to accept the bullet (easily) to the point where the case mouth is near even with the crimping cannelure?

This question was edited from a long frustrated rant about getting an RCBS Cowboy seating/crimping die adjusted to do both operations at once (while instructions seemed to read that jumping back and forth between setting seating plug and crimping die would not constantly set the other out of just-fixed alignment). I finally got some peace of mind when I separated the two (literally) and watched exactly what was happening with a few unprimed, uncharged cases.

This last lesson was learned too late for three "bullets" which were seated too deep for the collet of my bullet puller to reach. Practical advice on disassembling or safely disposing of these would also be greatly appreciated. (Though these questions and difficulties may signal otherwise, I did do a good amount of reading before I started the hands on stuff. Nothing like actually being there instead of just imagining it.)

 

[Mal H]

Cases should be belled just enough to allow the base of the bullet to sit on top of the case. If you "work" the brass too much in the belling procedure, the brass will have a lot shorter reloading life.

Not sure what you mean in paragraph 2.

Sounds like you need to buy an impact bullet puller. It looks like a hammer with a collet on one end of the hammer head which grasps the bullet head. Then you hit the other end hard against a relatively soft surface (e.g., the end of a length of a 4X4 as opposed to hitting a concrete floor). Works well for bullets that were seated in too far. They're available from all reloading supply houses.

 

[Mike Irwin]

If you're using lead bullets, keep adjusting your bell until you don't get any lead shavings when you seat the bullet.

Then you know that you're where you should be.

 

[Ed Dixon]

Mike, yeah, these loads were .45 Colt and all lead. I guess I have to get used to the idea that little "experiments" will be necessary to a degree on an ongoing basis, that is that testing such things with an unprimed, uncharged case(s) and being willing to trash some components now and then might save some teeth gnashing in the future.

 

[Ed Dixon]

Mal, paragraph 2 is just meant to say that I was having a hard time balancing between getting the die to crimp and getting the stem to seat at the same time. The directions were confusing for a first-timer and didn't seem to initially set the die low enough to either seat or crimp. As for the "hammer" bullet puller, the bullets are already too low to get a bite on -- below or almost below the case mouth. I tried using a bullet puller die but the collet couldn't get a purchase on the lead. Thinking about safe disposal if no salvage mission is possible.

 

[Jeeper]

Maybe I have been using the hammer type wrong for 10 years but I thougt the collet went around the rim of the case. They are meant to use inertia and the bullet usually weighs more than the brass for pistol calibers at least. That is how I have always used them and it has always worked.

Edit

Here is a picture of using one
http://www.armeriacellai.com/ezypull/ezypull.htm

 

[labgrade]

Sounds like we're talking about two different types of bullet pullers.

The inertial type (looks like a hammer) grabs the case around the rim & works just as well with a wadcutter (or anything else) seated way below flush with the case mouth. Fixture the case rim, screw on the cap & beat a board till the bullet flies out the end. There's better techniques & we can talk about snapping the wrist, etc. if you need later.

When seating a bullet, worry about cartridge over all length first - the bullet's eating depth. After you have that, back the seating stem out so it doesn't contact the bullet & then set the crimp portion of the die.

Once you have the crimp set, lock down the die's lock ring & with the ram fully up (making contact to crimp) screw the seating stem back down to make firm contact with the bullet & then lock that with its own lock ring.

Far as having to do "littele experiements," just better get darned well used to it. That's what reloading is all about.

 

[Mal H]

What Jeeper and labgrade said regarding the inertial or hammer type of bullet puller. You don't grasp the bullet in it, you grasp the head or rim. That's why it's ideal for the situation you described.

 

[Ed Dixon]

Gotcha. Thanks, folks.