Can I still get my barrel changed?

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ndking1126

New member
I have a Rem 700 ADL chambered in 30-06 and I am considering have it re-barreled, possibly to another caliber.

The only catch is about 12 years ago I used JB Weld to keep the scope base and mounts from coming loose. Call it a childhood indiscretion, call it stupidity, or call it whatever you want, but I had never heard of loctite and I knew I was never going to sell it. I'm not sure why the scope base kept coming loose, but I promise they haven't moved at all since then! The scope has never lost its zero either haha.

But I've never switched out a barrel, so I'm wondering if it still possible for a smith to clamp the action in a way that they scope base and mounts won't be in the way. I have a standard Leupold 1 piece base and Leupold standard 1" scope mounts on this rifle.

Thanks!
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
Action wrenches need clearance for the top of the receiver. No one is going to make a custom wrench for just one job. I think the scope base will have to come off.
 
N

ndking1126

New member
Do you know how to remove it with the jb weld there? I've read it takes a whole lot of heat to break the hold which I don't think I want to do.
 
F

FrankenMauser

New member
I am not a gunsmith.

But, my thoughts:
Any decent smith should be able to lock it down in a mill, drill out the screws, pop the bases off, chase (or re-tap) the threads, and go from there. But if the JB weld got into the barrel threads, you may be still hosed (barrel change still possible, but too expensive to be worthwhile).
And if the bases got epoxied down, that may add expense and complication, too.


Did you JB weld just the screw threads? Or the bases, too?
Cleaned well? Or just slapped on there?
 
S

Slopemeno

New member
Try the easiest route first. Remove the stock and scope, clamp the action in vise with non-marring jaws, and hit it with the heat gun. Using a screwdriver tip that's a very tight fit int he screw slots- turn the screwdriver while you keep the heat on. Ultimately- it's just epoxy with a filler, not magic.
 
R

Roughedge

New member
If they went on they'll come off. May have to take a mill and cut next to the screws so you can get a good grip on the screws. Worst case you drill them out and retap.
 
J

James K

Member In Memoriam
It is fairly easy to make an internal action wrench that fits into the bolt lug raceways and will work as well (some factories hold the receiver that way when putting barrels on).

It sounds like the problem is that you have never replaced a barrel before; there is a lot more to it than just unscrewing one barrel and screwing in another.

Jim
 
N

ndking1126

New member
Thanks for the replies.

When I put the JB Weld on, I scuffed the top of the receiver and the bottom of the scope base just a little then cleaned it thoroughly and applied the JB Weld. As best as I remember, the screws probably went through some of the JB Weld as they were going into the action.

Roughedge, sounds like you are recommending I cut (almost) completely through the scope base? If I use your idea and get rid of large parts of the scope base, I could more easily apply the heat as Slopemeno recommends. That's probably my best bet if I was going to try it on my own.

Jim, you are right.. I don't know all the ins and outs of it, and you guys told me what I needed to know. It's not as easy as a standard barrel change so I can expect more cost. When you add in the cost of the barrel, I'm basically at the cost of a new gun.

There's nothing wrong with it as is, so I'll keep it. I'll bed the action and maybe have a recoil pad installed on it instead. Thanks everyone!
 
J

James K

Member In Memoriam
"When you add in the cost of the barrel, I'm basically at the cost of a new gun."

Yep. And if you consider a good used gun, the cost difference is even less. Unless you have fired that Model 700 a lot more than most owners ever will, I doubt the barrel is worn out. If you want to go to another caliber, a new or good used rifle in that caliber might be a better bet dollarwise.

Jim
 
R

Remington74

New member
If you are going to replace the barrel why be concerned about the amount of heat required to remove the JB welded scope base? If it shoots good and you like the rifle and intend to keep it, just buy another rifle in the chosen caliber.
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
I remember hearing about the internal action wrench and was told they don't support the receiver as much as an external one. They work though.
 
4

4V50 Gary

Staff
BTW, JB Weld files off very quickly. I know from experience.

Was working on a S&W Victory and the center pin for the cylinder was too long. This required shortening so the cylinder was disassembled and the center pin placed into a vise. One swipe of the file and 1/8" came off. What? I examined it more closely and discovered it was lengthened with JB Weld. Since the center pin is different from the modern S&W revolver center pins, a new one had to be made on a lathe. Thank goodness for Hardinge lathes. It took some time, but it was done.
 
T

T. O'Heir

New member
JB Weld is just epoxy with metal in it instead of fibreglass like Acraglas. Comes off with heat, but it's not a great deal of heat. Propane torch should do it without damaging anything.
The issue is the receiver wrench is specific to your ADL's shape. The base needs to come off unle$$ you want to pay to have a cu$tom tool made.
Otherwise, you're limited to changing to calibres that require a long action and the .473" .30-06 bolt face. Lots of those.
 
G

Geezerbiker

New member
JB-Weld breaks down at around 250~300 degrees. I don't think that's hot enough to damage the heat treating. Put it in a 300 degree oven for about 30 minutes and the screws will come right out....

Tony
 
D

dakota.potts

New member
At our shop, we have action wrenches that will go inside the receiver. We re-barrel many Remington 700s, including Remington 700 derivatives such as Surgeon or Defiance actions which have integral rails. If the way you're describing it is what I'm imagining, it's not a problem.
 
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