Calling all Break Free CLP users...

[tstr]

I just started using CLP because of the good recomendations here on TFL.

But dog gone if it doesn't leave my gun just sloppy with oil. It's dripping out of the pores. How do you guys deal with that? I mean, every cleaning manual I've ever read says keep the oil coating light.

Don

 

[Ellery Holt]

I can't make suggestion really, because I don't really know how your routine and my routine differ. I can suggest though, that you use compressed air (can or compressor) to blow out the excess.

Best,

 

[AAChang]

Well, Breakfree CLP does tend to "sweat" a little so it's to be expected, if it's a problem wipe it down the next day after cleaning. Otherwise it will go to help to prevent rust.

 

[PUMC_TomG]

My advice is to make sure you use CLP VERY lightly. A tiny bit goes a long way. I usually just add a drop to my finger, and apply it that way. One drop is typically enough a significant area of the slide and frame (on a compact). Your results may vary, but just use small amounts.

 

[Spackler]

Use lightly...and SHAKE WELL.

 

[Hemicuda]

Best I can say... (I'm a LONG tome CLP user) is use less... a TINY bit goes a LONG way...

it is EXCELLENT stuff, but it DOES sweat outta the cracks a bit, no matter what...

like they said before... wipe it down the next day, and chalk the rest up to "rust prevention"...

 

[zanthope]

If you're using aerosol, don't spray it directly on the gun - spray it on a patch or rag or Q-Tip and apply it.

It's meant to be "dabbed" not "splattered."

Shake Well!!!

 

[nnciderr]

By clp are ya'll using the army's clp, which is wd-40? or something else. I've used plain ole wd-40 forever, along with a little hoppe's no.9 when needed. i usually clean the frame and turn it upside down on a rag and let the excess clp drip out while i clean the rest of the gun.

 

[Clayton]

The U.S. military does not and has never issued WD-40.

There are two suppliers of CLP to the U.S. military: Break-Free and Royal Lubricants.

A thin coat on metal surfaces is all that is required.

Most "oil" type lubes tend to "creep" on surfaces, which they were designed to do. You might try Milcomm TW-25B or Wilson Combat/Protec Ultima Lube if it bothers you.

www.milcomm.com
www.proteclubricants.com
www.wilsoncombat.com

www.break-free.com
www.royallube.com

 

[Will Beararms]

WD 40 Warning

Take it from a former salesman for a specialty chemical manufacturer: WD 40 is nothing more than perfumed kerosene. The only time it should be used is to displace water like when a shotgun is dropped into the water while duck hunting.

Use breakfree CLP-------------------sure there are better products out there but it can be found everywhere and it does a great job.

Remember WD in WF 40 equals water displacement.

 

[Clayton]

Very true.

FWIW, I work for a local judge's office, and perform maintenance duties on equipment including emergency generators, etc.

When I started, WD-40 was used on all padlocks, door locks, etc.
No rust, but the insides were so varnished over that they would hardly work. The CAT guy almost voided our warranty when he found out about WD-40 being used on parts of the generator.

 

[Mikul]

I apply CLP with a Q-tip and I've never had any leaks.

 

[don't shoot it's me]

i wipe clp on everything with a patch so it doesn't drip...then i use a grease (super lube) for the slide rails so it stays put....

 

[Big Lou]

As others has stated, I don't like to use the aerosol directly on the gun. I prefer the non-aerosol bottles since I tend to make a mess with the spray cans and usually end up putting on too much.

 

[J.T.King]

I squirt a little on a small rag...

then rub the CLP-soaked rag over the parts. None of the parts are coated enough to "run."

I let them sit for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a clean, dry rag. There is still enough CLP to do its job on the metal with no excess.

On load bearing surfaces, like rails, I use Tetra Gun Grease.

JT

 

[wildboarZ]

I picked up some Eezox - basically the same performance as Breakfree, but turns out dry and clean instead of wet.

 

[Hutch]

Uhhh, shake up the CLP? Damn. I'm halfway thru a quart, and I in a pump-spray bottle, and I was wondering why it keeps getting thicker and thicker. Should I trash it? Or treasure it for it's increased.... ahh... thickness?

 

[Big Lou]

Hutch, CLP (Cleaning, Lubricating, Protecting) is a mixture of solvent, lubricant, and a protective material. Since you haven't been shaking the bottle, you've probably been using mostly the solvent. I suspect it's still fine for lubricating and protection, but it's effectiveness as a cleaner has probably decreased. I'd suggest you buy a new bottle for cleaning, and save that old bottle for final wipe-downs.

I did the same thing the first time I started using CLP. I guess it pays to read the instructions!

 

[Clayton]

Break-Free CLP needs to be shaken, as mentioned above(and on the container), and remains "wet" on the surface.

ROYCO CLP doesn't require shaking, and dries after 24hrs.

FYI-Super Lube doesn't provide any more lubrication compared to Break-Free or ROYCO CLP, according to the ASTM test data.

Again, I would caution against mixing different lubricants and cleaners, as they aren't all compatible and performance may be altered in a negative way.

I use CLP applied to a piece of T-shirt cloth, Q-tip or pipe cleaner depending on the surface.

 

[johnwill]

I had the pleasure (displeasure?) of working on a gun that was "preserved" with WD-40 and stored for a few years. It took some work just to get the parts that were glued together apart, and then a lot of work to clean that gunk out of the gun! Friends don't let friends use WD-40 on their guns!