buying a model 28

[hardworker]

I've got a model 28 I'm looking at, finish is pretty bad. but what concerns me is that the SN in a coupla places is ground off. The one on the heel/butt of the gun is still there but the others are apparently ground off along with the model number. What are the legalities of this?

 

[j357]

Post up some pics. It would be generally hard to grind off the Model number on a 28, given its location, and there would be no reason to grind such for any reason.

 

[SaxonPig]

As long as the serial appears on the frame it is legal. But I would likely pass on such an abused gun. What else was done you don't notice? Why was somebody doing this? The gun may be stolen and the serial on the butt was covered by large stocks and the thief missed it in his efforts to remove all numbers. I want to feel good about a gun purchase and not be looking over my shoulder.

Just saying'...

 

[hardworker]

Don't have any pics. But from what he says its a police trade in. Claims to have the reciept from the store for it

 

[Chesster]

Possibly PD inventory #s ground off????

 

[carguychris]

Possibly PD inventory #s ground off????

That's my thought also.

From the factory, most M28's would have a number in three places: the serial number on the butt, and the model number and a meaningless assembly number inside the yoke cut. Sometimes the serial would be repeated inside the yoke cut in place of the assembly number, but this location is superfluous; the one on the butt is the important number from a legal standpoint.

Police departments would often mark revolvers on the frame above the trigger guard, on the frontstrap, and/or on the backstrap. Perhaps these are the numbers that have been ground off.

It sounds like the gun is probably legal, but from a negotiating standpoint, I would regard the grinding marks as significant damage and pass on this particular gun unless the price is REALLY good- like under $250. IMHO M28's are still common enough that there's no reason to pay a higher price for an example that's been butchered; this is not a prewar .38/44 Outdoorsman we're talking about.

 

[hardworker]

Yeah i've got him down to around your figure as far as price. But it seems legit. The finish on the gun is also rough but i figure it would make a good cheap glovebox or tackle box gun. Might refinish or parkerize if the price isnt too bad

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

The gun may be stolen and the serial on the butt was covered by large stocks and the thief missed it in his efforts to remove all numbers.

That's silly. OP, disregard that.

The serial number is on the bottom of the butt. If you want to refinish it, S&W does a really fine job for around $250. So you'll pay that, plus shipping to and from the factory. That will be ~$150.

As far as making it look good, it depends on where the numbers are that were "ground off." Are you talking about the yoke area of the gun? Or was there a number on the outside of the frame? Because if it's a number that the police department stamped into the exterior of the frame, then no amount of refinishing will fix that.

Still, if you decide to buy the gun, just make sure you get such a killer deal that you can pay the above and still have a bargain. Otherwise just go on gunbroker and buy one already fixed up.

 

[SaxonPig]

Excuse me, but it most certainly is not silly to consider the possibility that a gun with altered or removed stampings might be stolen.

I resent your comment.

 

[James K]

If I were buying that gun as a shooter, no way would I spend money to have S&W or anyone else refinish it. As is, the prices sound good. But if one starts talking about refinishing, the price goes into the range of a gun in much better condition to begin with.

Jim

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

it most certainly is not silly to consider the possibility that a gun with altered or removed stampings might be stolen

Read what carguy said. He's right. You're wrong.

the one on the butt is the important number from a legal standpoint

The possibility of the OP's gun being stolen is no greater than (the possibility) of any other gun (having been stolen).

 

[hardworker]

Well I'm gonna go look at it friday, the weather has me hemmed up today. If it's worth buying, I'll probably be back up here asking about painting it. I think that's the route to take at this point. I don't want a showpiece, just something that won't continue to rust.

 

[Zhillsauditor]

Rust never sleeps. For a revolver with the model number ground off, I'd want it really, really cheap. It is a remarkably bad time to buy handguns. Model 28s I've seen are going for at least $100 more than they were going less than a year ago. Indeed, right now, I'd look for a model 27 instead as the price difference has narrowed considerably and the 27 will most likely hold its value better.

 

[hardworker]

Well around here I've seen 28's in good shape go for 550-660 and I'm getting this one for less than half that

 

[Zhillsauditor]

I bought a 28 6" in good shape last year for $340 OTD. The $550 - 650 range is a temporary inflation, IMO.

Still, I love my N-frames, and would see no reason not to plunk down $250 for a mechanically sound one even during this inflationary period.

 

[hardworker]

I'd like to come buy guns where you live. Even during normal times, I see k-frame magnums going for 500-550 and 28s for 500-600

 

[SaxonPig]

FoghornLeghorn: I read all the comments, thank you. My opinion is based on what little info was offered, not on seeing the gun in person. When I read THIS in the original post "...what concerns me is that the SN in a coupla places is ground off" it raises a red flag.

Perhaps you are not concerned. Maybe you are correct. But your comments and your attitude are boorish.

 

[hardworker]

Just picked it up. Finish isn't hitting on much, but there's no rust. Someone worked it over with a dremel though, most of the markings are gone except for the serial on the butt and "smith and wesson" on the left side of the barrel.

Haven't decided what to do with it yet. Mechanically it doesn't really need anything, maybe some way to lighten the trigger pull

 

[FoghornLeghorn]

Haven't decided what to do with it yet. Mechanically it doesn't really need anything, maybe some way to lighten the trigger pull

You don't really have much choice "what to do with it." You've got a shooter. Personally, I'd love a shooter like that. Leave it in the floor of my farm truck. Take it out when I'm shooting in the rain. Everybody needs a gun like that.

Re the trigger pull. First thing to do is to take it apart and give it a really good cleaning. Oil it and fire it. If you still don't like the trigger pull you can try an aftermarket spring kit.

I can vouch for these guys, having used their products in several guns.

http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/SMITH & WESSON/K, L, & N FRAME/cID3/mID58/dID264

The Wolff Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results.