Bullet stuck in revolver barrel

[Sevens]

In 20 years of handloading, I finally fired a squib load that stuck a bullet. This part of my story is fodder for the H&R forum where I deserve a flogging, but the part I'd like to address here is the stuck bullet.

Like most moronic a-holes who aren't qualified to fix guns, I made it worse.

It was a Berry's plated 158 grain flat point bullet, stuck in a 6-inch S&W 686 barrel. For anyone who isn't familiar with a plated bullet, it looks like a jacketed bullet but it's not-- it's a lead bullet that has been electroplated with an ultra-thin jacket. It can't handle the speed of a regular jacketed bullet, but also isn't a full exposed lead bullet. It's a compromise bullet.

Here's the part where I made it worse. I was at least smart enough to recognize the squib and saw it lodged in the barrel before firing a follow up shot. Where I foobed things up is that I lightly tapped an aluminum cleaning rod down the muzzle (while protecting the crown) and while it did move the bullet a little closer to the breech end, it crushed the plating and turned a bullet-shaped plated bullet in to a crush wadcutter kinda of looking mess of lead and boogered up plating.

When it stopped making progess toward the breech, I started progressively hitting it harder. I've wailed on it now and it may as well be Excalbur stuck in a boulder.

This SOB seems to be stuck in here for life.

I would love to entertain suggestions on my next best step in removing this little nightmare I have created in one of my most prized possessions.

I'll try to take my flogging like a man. I certainly deserve it, but I'm not looking forward to it. Please wear a condom when you give it to me, and please care enough to add a suggestion along with the ass-chewing.

 

[Wildebees]

Take your revolver to a gunsmith. He'll clamp it in his lathe and drill a nice concentric hole through the bullet from the muzzle. Then he'll use a caliber size wooden dowel stick and tap-tap-tap it out from the muzzle side.

 

[Scorch]

Taking it to a smith is good advice. Most people don't listen to good advice.

1- Lube the bore.
2- Using a hardwood dowel that fits the bore, drive it out with a hammer. Gently.

 

[Alleykat]

Per Scorch, I'd use Kroil for the lube and certainly use a hardwood dowell. Can't imagine that you wouldn't be able to get that bullet out, using that method. I've dealt with a few squibs; never had one (and some have been with plated bullets) that wouldn't come out.

 

[dutchy]

I fully agree with Wildebees.

In my former club someone put 13 bullets in a Python (see my previous post), so your score can be improved.
He got them out homself, exactly the way Wildebees describes. So: see the gunsmith.

If however against common sense you want to drive it out yourself, (with a near caliber wooden dowel), do not lube the bore, it would help.
Lube the backside of the bullet and the barrel, because that's were the bullet's going and were it needs lubing.
But be safe, listen to Wildebees.

 

[dclevinger]

dutchy...that one beats my story. I had a S&W come in with 7 stuck in it. The only reason the guy didn't reload it A SECOND TIME was that the last round was still partially in the cylinder. I took a heck of a lot of work but they all came out.

With a single bullet, Kroil and either a hardwood dowel or brass rod. The key is having the dowel or rod be just smaller than bore diameter. Dump a good dose of Kroil, or some other penetrating oil, let it soak overnight and drive it out.

David

 

[James K]

Please, folks, don't use a wooden dowel to drive out a stuck bullet. All you do is splinter the dowel and then you still have a stuck bullet plus wood splinters in the barrel.

It sounds like the bullet is stuck partway up the barrel, which is a better situation than being jammed at the barrel-cylinder gap. Use a brass rod as close to bore diameter as you can get or (in most cases) you can simply shoot the obstruction out, using a half charge of powder and NO bullet.

Jim

 

[Sevens]

Thanks for the tips so far.

Last night, in a second attempt to move this slug, I sprayed a little PB Blaster in there. First, from the muzzle end, letting it soak about 10 minutes... then from the breech end, letting it soak about 10 minutes. No dice. No PB Blaster made it's way to the other side, and I still couldn't budge the slug.

I thought I might try a primer only bang from the cylinder to "shock" the damn thing even a mm or two forward, just to get it moving again, but haven't gotten that far. How on earth I would make a "half powder only" charge, I have no clue whatsoever.

Wow, you guys are gentle! I thought I'd be hearing all kinds of kicks in the nuts!

 

[VaFisher]

Like above post suggest, take it to someone that knows what they are doing, it will not take long with very minimal charges and may save you some later issues.

 

[Alleykat]

I usually am on the same page with Keenan. I've driven out a few bullets with a dowel. Haven't splintered one yet. Folks, this ain't rocket science. Hopefully, he's using a large enough dowel and a heavy-enough hammer! We ain't talking about pusillanimous pansy licks here!

 

[Nnobby45]

Taking it to a smith is good advice. Most people don't listen to good advice.

I know I didn't.

How could I have know it wasn't that simple and that I should have taken it to a smithie?

To clarify: My bullet bridged the forcing cone and the cylinder leade and I simply tapped it back into the cylinder (and case) with a wooden dowl I always have at the range. Or was it an aluminum primer tube-- being careful not to damage the lands?

Admittedly, it's only happened to me a couple times. Once with no powder charge, once with light charge.

The former was quite easy to remedy, the latter took a little more tapping, but both times the bullet failed to exit the cylinder and stuck in the forcing cone--locking up the cylinder, but keeping the forcing cone and cylinder in alignement so the bullet can be tappped back into the case enough to open the cylinder and solve the problem.

Never had a bullet stick up the barrel, which could be more problematic--especially if you fire another round right after it, since some folks are quick to take advantage of the "2nd strike" capability of the revolver and, if so trained, fire again before realizing they've stuck a bullet in the barrel with the previous shot.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

 

[Casimer]

Please, folks, don't use a wooden dowel to drive out a stuck bullet. All you do is splinter the dowel and then you still have a stuck bullet plus wood splinters in the barrel.

I'd gotten a dowel stuck in a barrel before - its diameter expanded from the force of my hitting it. See my post on 'wood solvent' for the details

 

[Archie]

Oh, why not?

Orchard Supply Hardware - or your local equivilent - should have threaded brass rod stock in varying sizes. I believe 5/16 is the right one for .357 sized bores. They come in 12 and 16 inch lengths. I have a 1/8 inch diameter one for .22s, as well.

Between the material and the threading, it's hard to damage the bore or rifling.

As mentioned, oil the bore and let it penetrate as much as possible.

I remove the cylinder, hold the barrel in my left hand and pound on the rod with a plastic hammer in my right hand. Locking the gun in a vise has a potential of springing the frame. Whatever you do, don't put the hammer spur down on a block of something and pound against it.

Yes, it takes some force. Pound on it.

And I'm not saying anything disparaging about you sticking a bullet in a bore. Guess how I learned to remove them?

 

[Bill DeShivs]

"Pounding" on the gun could bend the frame.
Use quick, sharp taps with a light hammer.
Or better yet, take it to a gunsmith!

 

[orionengnr]

"Pounding" on the gun could bend the frame.

I read the prior post in it's entirety.

If "pounding on it" with a plastic mallet while holding the barrel unsupported in your left hand can bend the frame, then your hands/arms are a mite stronger than mine...or anyone else I know.

As a DIY'er, I would not be afraid to try this method first. If it didn't budge, I think the gunsmith suggestion is an excellent one.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

And I read it in it's entirety, too.
And I also probably have a little more gunsmithing experience than you.
Brute force is usually more damaging than light taps.

 

[tplumeri]

AW, just fire another 357 behind it.
somthings gotta give, right?


disclaimer: this was meant in jest, please dont anybody try it!!

 

[4V50 Gary]

I'd tap it out with a brass rod that is as close a fit to the bore diameter as I could fit it. The other thing I'd do is to find the outer diameter of the barrel and drill a block of hardwood to match. Saw the wood in half and you've got wood jaws for the barrel. This wood jaws will be used to mount the barrel into a vise (without crushing the barrel). Of course, the cylinder will have been removed first. Then I'd start tapping (after overnight soaking). It's not rocket science, but the advantage of letting a 'smith do it is that if he messes up, he replaces the barrel for you (free).

 

[Sevens]

SUCCESS!

Bought a long drill bit and also some clear vinyl hose. This worked VERY well, it centered the drill bit in the bore and it kept the drill bit from coming near any part of the barrel. Used the hose like a sheath and drilled through the center of the bullet.

After that, I plugged the breech end and squirted some PB Blaster in there and let it sit over night.

Today I inserted a threaded brass rod (a piece from the plumbing section of the hardware store, some toilet part) and using a bore guide on the muzzle, I sent this rod down to the bullet. It screwed in to the bullet. Then I tapped it lightly with a mallet until it finally worked itself back down the bore and fell out.

The bullet does indeed look like a jacketed wadcutter... only with a hole through it lengthwise. You can see where it used to be a truncated cone bullet and was crushed in to a wadcutter by yours truly.

Thanks for everyone's advice!