Bullet lube question

[okiefarmer]

I think it was here, or at least a reference from here to check out White Label Lube. I ordered some last year, just now getting around to ussing it on a batch of 40 S&W 175 pills. Claims to not need a heater, but it takes quite a crank on the top screw to get the band to fill out. I am using the BAC sticks, I believe a mix with X-Lox, beeswax, and carnaube. I utilize the heater at times, but it gets really too soft in a hurry. Have to unplug from time to time. Kind of a PITA really, but I think I'm gonna like the BAC lube in pistol calibers better, seems like the softer material would flow off bullet to barrel much easier. I have found fired projos with lube still in the grooves from lube I was using before.

Does anyone know if their (White Label Lube) regular harder carnauba wax sticks would suffice for pistol as well as the faster rifle pills. I generally cast up and lube a boatload (in my usage anyway) in the winter, and was also curious if the BAC lube would melt out of the grooves on hot summer afternoons. Temp in loading room doesn't get above ambient outside temp, it is insulated, but not cooled yet.

TIA,

Okie out

 

[oldandslow]

of, 11/19/11

Tough question on lubes. When I am stumped I ask the question on www.castboolits.gunloads.com. It seems to be the reference forum for smelting and casting your own lead. They have a subforum devoted to lubes and are quite friendly and helpful.

I have a Lyman 4500 lubrisizer and have used it for 9mm and .45. I finally gave up on the lubrisizer as being too slow and messy. I've gone strictly to pan-lubing- easier and quicker. Good luck.

best wishes- oldandslow

 

[GP100man]

Loobes

I use Carnauba Red for everything , it`s a tad harder & needs heat but does`nt get to lucid under heat I run my loobers at `bout 105f & have no trouble & use the litest touch possible on the pressure screw.

I made a batch of 50/50 & lithy bee ,bought some 50/50 to do some comparisons but can`t bring myself to clean out the CR since it works so good !!!

 

[snuffy]

What you need is a temperature control for that lubrisizer.

It's simply a dimmer switch used to replace a room light switch. That one is assembled into a wall box. It has an on/off feature, pushing straight in on the knob turns it on or off right where it's set. I run it about half open for carnuba red, works great.

 

[CherokeeT]

I use their CR lube for rifle and pistol. Does need a little heat to use in Lyman and Star sizers but not a problem for me. I have some BAC also but haven't tried it yet, and may not since I am very satisfied with the CR.

 

[CrustyFN]

I use the CR lube in 45 auto. Great lube in my opinion. Like the others said it needs some heat but won't get too soft.

 

[Edward429451]

Ah! What to do with a couple of those funky dimmer switches that I took down and tossed in the junk drawer. I took to using the heater even with alox after breaking my 450 linkage trying to lube in a cold basement.

 

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Used BAC for a long time. I like it alot, but it was just a bit too soft for storing lubed bullets. I now use CR and dont have as big a problem.

I use modified Hornady bullet feed dies on both my Hornady progressives and if I don't use CR I find the softer lube gums up the bullets therefore gumming up and not allowing the feed die to operate as it should.

If you have a bunch of BAC, there is a fella (RandyRat, I think is his name) on Castboolits that sells Beeswax. Add some beeswax to the BAC and it will stiffen it up. As for how much to add, well you will have to experiment. Good luck!

 

[sc928porsche]

Egad! Someone is missing a cover plate!!!!!

 

[okiefarmer]

ICH,

That was my main issue, storing boolits. but it is also somewhat sticky to handle when loading. I was mostly concerned about the CR flowing out of the grooves upon firing and doing its deed. I was thinking the softer lube would be better for the slower boolits, and the harder lube, heating up from faster velocities, would melt out of the grooves. I may go to CR for everything too. I do alot of my casting and lubing in the winter, loading too, but try to cast/lube enough for the whole year while it's nasty in the winter and little to do outside on the farm.

 

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Okie, I agree that the softer lube may be better for slower loads. I have just come to like the harder lube, like you said, for storing and handling. Gums up dies less too.

 

[TXGunNut]

I guess I like things a little messy. I use SPG in my Lyman for BP and BP velocity loads on boolits with big grooves. Others I use LLA and tumble lube before and after running thru a Lee sizer.

 

[dahermit]

I was thinking the softer lube would be better for the slower boolits, and the harder lube, heating up from faster velocities, would melt out of the grooves.

A soft lube like NRA Alox-50/50 and others will not melt out of the bullet and deposit in the barrel when fired. If one looks at recovered lead bullets from handguns fired into water or snow (to keep the lube from heating up and running out of the bullet after firing , the bullet is hot after firing), one will find that the lube has not melted...still intact in the lube grooves. Your theory about the lube melting when firing to coat the bore, must not be what happens.

 

[okiefarmer]

Yeah, can see the logic there. But, my barell is warming up after the first couple cylinders full, unless I set it down for a while to shoot something else.

Simple inertia should upset the lube in the groove as the bullet takes off. Ya know, anything at rest tends to stay at rest line.

All else being equal, I think I'm changing to Carnauba Red from White Label. Good people to deal with, and makes good stuff. If the harder lube will perform the same in my pistols and rifles, then like some other threads are up trying to use just one powder for all, I think I'v just decided on one lube for all. Well, 'cept BP.

Thanks

 

[LAH]

You'll like Carnauba Red.