My son wants to build his own ar15. He wants the ability to mount a scope, iron sights, a good trigger, and an overall solid gun for around 800 to 1000. This gun will be used mostly for plinking. My brother in law has built 2 and said it wasn't difficult. I have heard others say that you need to be a master gunsmith, or you will end up with a dangerous piece of junk. I would like input as far as part brands and whether or not we should even tackle this. How much will we spend on tools and a set of go. no-go, field gauges? Any input would be very much appreciated.
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Building an Ar15
- Thread starter AL45
- Start date
I most strongly recommend you visit m4carbine.net and search around there before buying anything. They even have a subforum for custom builds.
Technically, an AR15 is easy to build. Just about anyone can put one together with just a few special tools and it will work ... at least for a while. However, it IS a different thing to put one together RIGHT, so that the parts work together longer and under more demanding circumstances.
I built my first AR after some minimal research. As time went by, I did much, much more research and built two more that function significantly better and actually cost less in the long run because they haven't broken anything. And I didn't need any more special tools; I simply learned how to use them better.
Also, for typical civilian use (especially a plinker), there are some parts that don't need to be the best in the business. But every part must still be PROPERLY MADE. Some parts are inexpensive; others are cheap.
However, there are some parts that really should be among the best in the business. The bolt carrier group is a prime example.
Buy from reputable vendors, such as Bravo Company (BCM).
You can get more info about all that on m4carbine.net.
Finally, remember that the federal tax on an AR is based on the lower receiver and anything attached to it. For the most part, building an AR is fun and allows great customization, but it probably won't save you any money. The biggest area I've seen for savings is to buy an assembled lower that is separate from an assembled upper. You'll pay the tax on the lower, not on the entire rifle. Simply put them together when you get them, and you're good to go.
Technically, an AR15 is easy to build. Just about anyone can put one together with just a few special tools and it will work ... at least for a while. However, it IS a different thing to put one together RIGHT, so that the parts work together longer and under more demanding circumstances.
I built my first AR after some minimal research. As time went by, I did much, much more research and built two more that function significantly better and actually cost less in the long run because they haven't broken anything. And I didn't need any more special tools; I simply learned how to use them better.
Also, for typical civilian use (especially a plinker), there are some parts that don't need to be the best in the business. But every part must still be PROPERLY MADE. Some parts are inexpensive; others are cheap.
However, there are some parts that really should be among the best in the business. The bolt carrier group is a prime example.
Buy from reputable vendors, such as Bravo Company (BCM).
You can get more info about all that on m4carbine.net.
Finally, remember that the federal tax on an AR is based on the lower receiver and anything attached to it. For the most part, building an AR is fun and allows great customization, but it probably won't save you any money. The biggest area I've seen for savings is to buy an assembled lower that is separate from an assembled upper. You'll pay the tax on the lower, not on the entire rifle. Simply put them together when you get them, and you're good to go.
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It is fun. Do your research. There are videos showing home assembly. Those methods work, sometimes better than the specialty tool. Generally speaking, buying a pre-made upper with BCG will save time and headache. PSA, BCM are both good venders. There are other good venders.
The key to saving money is no wasted parts. Changing out parts on a store bought gun is a waste of money as the parts changed out are often bottom dollar parts, but you paid $800+ for the gun. In general, home builds should be better parts if you do your homework up front.
The key to saving money is no wasted parts. Changing out parts on a store bought gun is a waste of money as the parts changed out are often bottom dollar parts, but you paid $800+ for the gun. In general, home builds should be better parts if you do your homework up front.
Psa offers barrels from FN, chrome lined and 1:7 usually. CHF or not their barrels shoot great and kits are reasonably priced, time from order to porch is usually a bit under a month. Ar-15.com and the S&W MP15 forums are good for discussion of problems but the other forum is very elitist.
semi_problomatic
New member
It's extremely easy, and I needed no specialized AR tools... But I used a seekins front rail that uses a titanium barrel nut in 1 1/8 so I had to get that wrench head that fit on a torque wrench. The PWS enhanced buffer tube doesn't use a castle nut, so again it needed no special tools.
Since you're not reaming a new barrel it should be headspaced from the company who makes it. I used superior barrels and got the bolt headspaced to my barrel.
IIRC all I used as far as tools was a torque wrench and 1 1/8 wrench head for barrel, allen key for my adjustable gas block, pair of vice grips with tape on the jaws for my trigger pins, allen key for my pistol grip...and a flat bladed screwdriver for my hogan sights...and a vice. I bought the AR-15 vice kit, helped with installing the barrel and aligning the gas tube, but I didn't really need it.
I'm not suggesting you go my route, my barrel, rail, and buffer tube pretty much eats your budget... But to save money buy the parts before you buy the tools.
Since you're not reaming a new barrel it should be headspaced from the company who makes it. I used superior barrels and got the bolt headspaced to my barrel.
IIRC all I used as far as tools was a torque wrench and 1 1/8 wrench head for barrel, allen key for my adjustable gas block, pair of vice grips with tape on the jaws for my trigger pins, allen key for my pistol grip...and a flat bladed screwdriver for my hogan sights...and a vice. I bought the AR-15 vice kit, helped with installing the barrel and aligning the gas tube, but I didn't really need it.
I'm not suggesting you go my route, my barrel, rail, and buffer tube pretty much eats your budget... But to save money buy the parts before you buy the tools.
FWIW, G&R Tactical has the Smith & Wesson M&P 15 Sport for $599.00. G&R Tactical is a top-notch dealer who knows his stuff when it comes to ARs. IIRC, he personally checks every rifle before it goes out his door. Unless you really want to put one together, this may be the best way to go. You won't need to spend any money on tools, either.
I'll help you out by pointing you towards your first important buy http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XAIMBCG
You won't find a quality BCG for cheaper.
You won't find a quality BCG for cheaper.
DubC-Hicks
New member
A great, inexpensive way to put together an AR is to get a complete lower from Surplus Ammo for $170, and a complete upper from PSA for $400-$500. I've done 2 like this, and they are great shooters.
I think your son should really decide what he wants to do here. Does he want the gun to shoot now and for little money or does he really want the experience of building the rifle? I've considered building, but only because I already own an AR and if I intend to build one up, it will probably be completely custom with the best parts and a lot of separation of dollars on my part, a project that I want to do just because I can. I've heard a thousand times before and your son should know this, you will save NO MONEY building your gun. Prices have come way down since the last scare. Build one because you want to, not because it's cheaper.
People are badmouthing the NFA polymer lowers, but they sell complete lower units and I'm not buying the bad juju from people who have never used one. Simple physics of aluminum versus polymer tells me that the polymer lower is stronger as long as it is designed correctly (and believe me, today they are). They come stock with a polymer accutrigger group. The trigger pull is nice with no take up or slack and I've heard from many people much better than a stock metal trigger group. I was fortunate enough to stumble on a deal on an upper with mostly Yankee Hill Machine parts. The Diamond Spectre forends are beautiful but expensive to buy on their own. Lots of guys are getting great deals buying bulk parts and building uppers, giving you prices you could never hope to pay on your own. If he wants irons, I recommend sticking with an A3 and throwing on some flip ups.
People are badmouthing the NFA polymer lowers, but they sell complete lower units and I'm not buying the bad juju from people who have never used one. Simple physics of aluminum versus polymer tells me that the polymer lower is stronger as long as it is designed correctly (and believe me, today they are). They come stock with a polymer accutrigger group. The trigger pull is nice with no take up or slack and I've heard from many people much better than a stock metal trigger group. I was fortunate enough to stumble on a deal on an upper with mostly Yankee Hill Machine parts. The Diamond Spectre forends are beautiful but expensive to buy on their own. Lots of guys are getting great deals buying bulk parts and building uppers, giving you prices you could never hope to pay on your own. If he wants irons, I recommend sticking with an A3 and throwing on some flip ups.