Bought a used S&W 686 a few days ago.....went to go shoot it at the range and noticed (the last few days) the cylinder release was finicky.....finally went to load some ammo and now it won't release at all! Not real smart on revolvers so was hoping someone could help me out. I'm really mad that I bought this gun and can't even shoot it. Feel like I just got screwed over. Help!
Bought used S&W 686.....now cylinder won't release....***?
- Thread starter finz50
- Start date
ScottRiqui
New member
Make sure the ejector rod isn't backing itself out. When mine backs out, the gun shoots fine but the cylinder won't eject.
The ejector rod should have left-handed threads, so make sure you're not loosening it further when you check it.
The ejector rod should have left-handed threads, so make sure you're not loosening it further when you check it.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Most likely the ejector rod is unscrewing and binding things up. This is a semi-common happening with Smith & Wesson revolvers.
The easiest way to deal with this is with a business card and a couple of Popsicle sticks.
You use the stick to wedge the ejector rod so that it won't turn and you partially pull the trigger so the cylinder bolt starts to retract. You then slip the business card between the cylinder and frame so that the cylinder bolt can't lock the cylinder.
Then you gently turn the cylinder counter clockwise (I think that's the proper direction) to screw the ejector rod back in. Probably no more than a quarter to half turn.
Once you get the cylinder open, you need three or more empty shell casings.
Put those in the cylinder, then with a PADDED pliers you hold the rod and turn the cylinder to get it good and snug.
Chances are eventually it will do the same thing; that's when you employ a little Loctite to hold everything in place.
The easiest way to deal with this is with a business card and a couple of Popsicle sticks.
You use the stick to wedge the ejector rod so that it won't turn and you partially pull the trigger so the cylinder bolt starts to retract. You then slip the business card between the cylinder and frame so that the cylinder bolt can't lock the cylinder.
Then you gently turn the cylinder counter clockwise (I think that's the proper direction) to screw the ejector rod back in. Probably no more than a quarter to half turn.
Once you get the cylinder open, you need three or more empty shell casings.
Put those in the cylinder, then with a PADDED pliers you hold the rod and turn the cylinder to get it good and snug.
Chances are eventually it will do the same thing; that's when you employ a little Loctite to hold everything in place.
ScottRiqui
New member
Anti-clockwise, as viewed from the end of the cylinder where you insert the cartridges. (Mike's post is correct.)
Yeah, this can be a pain. I actually had this happen with my duty Model 19 when I was on Embassy duty during my stint in the USMC. Good thing it was during my relief when I was checking the weapon back into the safe and not during a very nasty situation where I was actually depending on the gun.
Wish I'd read this post before yesterday. I just sent my new 686 to S&W for warranty repair! I'd noticed the operation of the ejector rod to release the cylinder was a bit finicky but assumed (yeah, I know) this was part of the new weapon working-in thing. Then following a day at the range last Thursday, after disassembling for cleaning, the cylinder wouldn't close. The crane without the cylinder operated just fine, but with the cylinder on it would bind against the rear of the frame and the crane would not fully seat (about 1/32nd out).
Reading this discussion I'm guessing the same thing happened to me, the ejector rod was loosening up a little each time I fired the weapon. It's frustrating b/c I just bought the gun on 28 July.
Reading this discussion I'm guessing the same thing happened to me, the ejector rod was loosening up a little each time I fired the weapon. It's frustrating b/c I just bought the gun on 28 July.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Yep, I know I'm the man. 
Yes, Blue Loctite is fine. It's got good holding properties, but it's not so aggressive that you won't be able to get the parts apart if you need to in the future.
It's weird, but any Smith & Wesson hand ejector revolver of any age can suddenly develop this issue. I don't know if S&W uses anything other than torque at the factory, but if they don't, they should.
Yes, Blue Loctite is fine. It's got good holding properties, but it's not so aggressive that you won't be able to get the parts apart if you need to in the future.
It's weird, but any Smith & Wesson hand ejector revolver of any age can suddenly develop this issue. I don't know if S&W uses anything other than torque at the factory, but if they don't, they should.
Mike Irwin
Staff
The cases in the cylinder support the ejector star when you're tightening the rod.
You don't put fired cases in there and you start trying to tighten the rod you're going to bend the living hell out of the ejector star, the index pins, or both.
You don't put fired cases in there and you start trying to tighten the rod you're going to bend the living hell out of the ejector star, the index pins, or both.
Ejector Rod
My old Taurus Model 65 .357 has had the same issues a couple of times. It is such a close copy of S&W they tend to have same problem it seems. First time it happened, I was really stumped for a while. I'm surprised they don't use a locktite type product at the factory for these type of revolvers.
It can really spook someone who is not familiar with the symptoms.
The above trouble shoot advice above is the best advice I have seen on this.
My old Taurus Model 65 .357 has had the same issues a couple of times. It is such a close copy of S&W they tend to have same problem it seems. First time it happened, I was really stumped for a while. I'm surprised they don't use a locktite type product at the factory for these type of revolvers.
It can really spook someone who is not familiar with the symptoms.
The above trouble shoot advice above is the best advice I have seen on this.