Bobbed hammers?

[Deja vu]

I have been pocket caring a revolver for most of my life. I recently went with a larger revolver for a higher capacity. Unfortunate it has a hammer spur. I have tried it with some drawing practice and while it does not catch as often as you would thing it does get caught some times.

Is there a brand of hammer that you would suggest. I am not looking for competition grade stuff here, I just want it to reliably fire the rounds and not snag in my pocket.

Any recommendations?

 

[V-fib]

most smiths will do the job for you with the existing hammer. I had a SP101 3" bbl done and it worked out well. no complaints

 

[AK103K]

If youre comfortable taking the gun apart, its not hard to do it yourself. Ive done a couple with just a file and a hacksaw.

You also don't have to bob the whole thing. Do as much or little as you like.

 

[kymasabe]

Charter Arms makes DAO replacement hammers....if you're playing with a Charter.

 

[Moenie]

I have used Apex hammers on my S&Ws and they were drop in swaps and 100% reliable. I can’t say if they are any better than a stock hammer that is bobbed, but it does allow one to go back to stock configuration if you ever want to.

BTW, contrary to popular belief, a lighter hammer is more reliable in igniting primers than a heavier one.

 

[lee n. field]

Charter Arms makes DAO replacement hammers....if you're playing with a Charter.

5 minute job to swap it out.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

"BTW, contrary to popular belief, a lighter hammer is more reliable in igniting primers than a heavier one."

No, it isn't.

 

[44 AMP]

oh, here we go again....

several threads on this not too long ago, do a search, its a topic that generates some strongly diverse opinions.

https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=610347&highlight=bobbed+hammer

is one

 

[Moenie]

"BTW, contrary to popular belief, a lighter hammer is more reliable in igniting primers than a heavier one."

No, it isn't.

Energy = velocity squared times mass.

My 386 with standard hammer and Wolff spring would not ignite Fiocchi ammo reliably. I switched to a lightweight hammer and now it's 100% reliable with Fiocchi.

Attached before and after pics of my .386

Full disclosure - I don't sell hammers for a living

 

[CCCLVII]

Funny I was just looking for the same thing and here it is on page 1.

 

[ammo.crafter]

hammer bob

Did several bobs on J frames using a Dremel...very slowly, until I got the hammer where I wanted it.

I did change the springs to account for the removed weight as well.

 

[pete2]

Did several bobs on J frames using a Dremel...very slowly, until I got the hammer where I wanted it.

I did change the springs to account for the removed weight as well.

Ammo, did you go with a lighter or heavier hammer spring????

 

[AK103K]

I often wonder if the supposed problems blamed on the bobbed hammers, isnt just people backing the strain screw out, or using lighter springs trying to lighten the trigger.

On the guns I bobbed, I kept the factory spring, and screwed that stain screw in tight, and never had any issues with ignition.

Ive bought a number of S&W revolvers over the years (standard factory hammers) that had triggers that felt really light, but the previous owner had backed the strain screw way out and/or replaced the spring, and the guns had problems with light strikes until the screw was turned back in, and/or a factory spring installed.

Most factory triggers are not at all bad, nor do they need to be lightened. Pretty much every complaint you see about problems, and with any gun (Glocks are especially prone to this), the problem is usually due to "improvements" made, trying to make up for the shooters insecurity and lack of muscle tone and skill.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

The phrase "Get a smaller hammer!" is not exactly popular.

 

[44 AMP]

My 386 with standard hammer and Wolff spring would not ignite Fiocchi ammo reliably.

On the guns I bobbed, I kept the factory spring, and screwed that stain screw in tight, and never had any issues with ignition.

Both cases here changed the gun. When you change the gun, you CHANGE the gun, and any and all changes in performance or reliability are on you.

FWIW, the Strain Screw is not meant to be screwed in tight, OR backed out to "improve" anything. Its meant to have the head flush with the grip frame, neither protruding above or sunk below. It's there so you can release the tension on the spring as part of the disassembly process. Nothing else.

The fact that people can, and do use the strain screw for other reasons doesn't change its intended purpose, or the fact that one shouldn't use it for something it wasn't intended to be used for.

 

[1911_Hardball]

"BTW, contrary to popular belief, a lighter hammer is more reliable in igniting primers than a heavier one."

No, it isn't.

That depends on whether it's a floating firing pin or a fixed firing pin. A floating pin gun will be more reliable as it relies on kinetic energy transfer. A hammer-affixed pin gun relies on momentum so may not be more reliable with a lighter hammer.

 

[dahermit]

That depends on whether it's a floating firing pin or a fixed firing pin. A floating pin gun will be more reliable as it relies on kinetic energy transfer. A hammer-affixed pin gun relies on momentum so may not be more reliable with a lighter hammer.

I though momentum is kinetic energy?

 

[dahermit]

I would not have a double-action revolver with a bobbed hammer...I have five.
This is one:

It is notable that none of the five have ever had a problem setting off primers.

 

[44 AMP]

I though momentum is kinetic energy?

Not exactly. The formulas used to calculate each are slightly different.

 

[Moenie]

Did several bobs on J frames using a Dremel...very slowly, until I got the hammer where I wanted it.

I did change the springs to account for the removed weight as well.

Did you cut off the spur with the dremel or only used to dremel to finish it off? I'm planning to do my King Cobra but was thinking of doing the cut with an angle grinder and then use a couple of jewelry file to finish.