Best way to clean lead fouling?

[ZeusOne]

I just started experimenting with lead bullet reloading, and am experiencing lead fouling problems in the throat and cylinder of my stainless GP100.

I've been using a Hoppes lead remover tool (Lewes?), but am afraid that repeated use might damage the rifling.

How do you clean for this problem?

 

[Brian Busch]

Courtesy of "Gravity" @ 1911 forum:

I wanted to post the best way I have found to remove lead build-up from my firearm barrels for our newer members to the 1911 Family. I am EXTREMELY meticulous about cleaning my firearms and I have honestly tried almost every product you could name. I have spent a lot of money and time over the years and this is what I have found to honestly work the best. I know a lot of us reload for the .45 and those reloads are more than likely lead for cost reasons or SWC bullseye shooting. The best way I have personally found to remove lead from your barrel is this.
Go to Wal-Mart/Kmart and pick up a package of Chore-Boy copper mesh cleaning pads. They are quite cheap. You will want to cut a square piece of one of the pads and wrap it around one of your nylon bore brushes. I have seen people state that you should then use Hoppes or a similiar product on the Chore Boy patch. I have found that keeping the patch and barrel dry works the best. Then simply run the Chore-Boy patch in and out of the barrel and you will have lead chunks/slivers coming out. The copper mesh is very soft and it WILL NOT scratch your barrel. Your barrel is harder than that.
Repeat this until you are satisfied that all the lead is out. Then clean the barrel with the cleaner of your choice such as Hoppes/Breakfree CLP/Outers etc.
As I stated above I have tried almost every cleaner/method and I have found this to work the best on my barrels.

I've been doing this, and it works.

 

[22lovr]

Brian: thanks for that tip!

I have avoided shooting lead rounds through my revolvers simply because I'm concerned about lead buildup and being unable to fully clean it out. There are some awesome lead self-defense loads I'd love to try but have been afraid to. Thanks for that; I know what you're explaining.

 

[ragingbull454]

ZeusOne:

I have a stainless GP100, and had the same problem. I switched from Hoppes #9 solvent to Pro Shot solvent, and wow, what a difference. I use it in all my guns, and it cuts my cleaning time in half. This stuff is amazingly strong. If you use it, it will bring your gp100 back to new. This stuff is amazing. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area, because this stuff will give you a monstrous headache if not.

Good luck.

Any questions, just email me at erick@asus.net.

Erick
'ragingbull454'

 

[johnwill]

DON'T try "shooting it out" by chasing it with jacketed bullets! This appears to remove some of the lead, but it also irons more of it into every crook & cranny, making it practically impossible to get it out! Add to that problem the fact that it can cause much higher chamber pressures, and it's just a bad idea.

 

[D FAR]

I used some SWC last week, what a frigging mess I had when I came hmoe to clean it. The lead was built up in the throat like you wouldn't believe. I scrubed the damn thing for at least and hour and a half. I will NEVER shot plain lead again.

It's not worth the bull**** afterwards.

 

[bountyh]

I winced when I heard about dragging a copper patch through the barrel.... stainless is definitely stronger than copper, but I wouldn't do it. I get stubborn fouling out using a "next size up" (cleaning a .38, use a .40 brush) NYLON bore brush dipped in automotive chrome polish. Must be nylon. Chrome polish is very mild in abrasive, so you can really scrub at it without worry. To get the garbage near the forcing cone end: put some polish on a Q-tip and work it in. Then take the brush off the rod and work it in and out by hand at the cone end. Run patches on a jag and it will be clean. If anything is still in there after that, J+B bore cleaner on a patch will get it. That has some mild abrasives so only use it for really stubborn stuff (like lead).

BTW: chrome polish is the best for getting the burn rings out of a wheel guns cylinder tubes. I put the rod in my hand drill, dip the brush in the polish, and spin it in the tube. About ten seconds usually does it.

 

[Alexis Machine]

Uh, why would you wince at dragging a copper patch through your barrel? What do you do when you shoot jacketed (copper) ammunition through your barrel?

"Cleaning:
Barrel (lead bullets)
Same basic procedure, but do not use solvent in the barrel. Take a loose fitting bronze brush and tightly wrap a 2" square cut from a pure copper mesh scouring pad, around the brush. Run it through the bore, remove the rod and repeat 6 or 8 times. Your bore should be 100% lead-free."

- Bill Wilson, "The 1911 Auto Maintenance Manual"

 

[ZeusOne]

Thanks

for all your comments!

 

[IRock]

Outers makes a little item called Foul-Out. It operates on batteries and a rod goes in the barrel along with a solution. It takes all fouling matter out, either lead or copper. I was amazed the first time I used it on a leaded barrel. I thought it looked clean before I tried it, but you should have seen the lead that came out with the rod. No scrubbing involved and a super clean barrel. I think I paid around sixty dollars, but worth it to me.

 

[straightShot]

IRock:

Does Foul Out work on cylinders?