Best scope for under $500 (for FAL)

Zak Smith

New member
I'm looking for a good scope to put on my FAL, for under $500. I will be using the DSA mount, so I'm pretty sure it will be steady enough.

Most of my shooting will be between 80 and 280 yards (longest range nearby), but I'd like it to be able to go out to 500 yards or so.

However, I do want to be able to turn down the power to something appropriate for quick acqusition and aiming on closer moving targets (ie, a deer running at 40 yards). (Of course, by habit, when hunting, I always leave the scoped turned down to the lowest power because close shots have less warning, and I usually have time to turn it up for long shots.)

Other parameters:
1. no need for objective > 40mm.
2. must be rugged, not fragile
3. must stay in adjustment

Right now, my first choice is a Leupold Vari-X III 3.5-10x40mm ($375 @ swfa.com). Is this a good choice?

What are the important differences between the Vari-X II and Vari-X III? Would I be better served by a lower power?

thanks
 

George Hill

Staff Alumnus
The Armoured scope Tasco puts out for around 100 is plenty good for an FAL.
Scopes break and if its on an FAL wich will see duty more harsh than your average rifle (mine certainly does) you'll want a scope that you could easily replace.
Bushnell puts out a 3X9 varible for about 50 bucks thats a good choice as well. The FAL can be quite acurate - but generally it's no tack driver. As such - there is no reason to put "a hundurd dollar saddle on a fifty dollar horse".
 

freestate

New member
I have a Leupold VariXIII 3.5-10x40 and recommend it highly. The VX III has multicoated optics, a one piece main tube, beefier internals and click stop adjustments. The VX II has none of these. Keep in mind too that Leupold is tops in customer service if you ever experience a problem with one of their scopes. This is what I have heard. Personally, I have never experienced any kind of problem with one of their scopes.
 

Zak Smith

New member
Freestate - I am somewhat worried that a 3.5X might be too much magnification for quick close-up (<60 yards) shots.

Have you had any problem with the 3.5-10 in that regard?

For this reason, I am considering a 2.5-8 or even 1.75-6.
 

freestate

New member
Smithz, I don't think it would be a problem with the power turned all the way down. When hunting I usually keep my scopes turned all the way down. Then if I see something at a distance and need extra power I can turn it up. You mentioned the 2.5-8. I also use this and it too would be an excellent choice, maybe better.
 

Zak Smith

New member
I've now got a Vari-X III 2.5-8X on the way from SWFA. I'll let you know how it works out.


Yes, I always keep the power turned down in case of a close shot. There's always time to turn it up if need be.

thanks
 
The Vari III is a better constructed scope. Go to the Leupold website and they'll show you the difference.

I'd definitely go with Leupold.
 

Dr.Rob

Staff Alumnus
George is right.. and by the way I use tasco scopes almost exclusively. I've owned weavers, bushnells, Burris, redfeild, and Leupold and for the money I think Tasco makes a damn good scope. I can't imagine spending 4 times the money and not getting 4 times the scope. Are leupold optics that much better? At 280 yards even a 7 power scope is sufficient for deer sized game. 500 yards is a LONG WAY for a semi auto rifle that has not been accurized to engage a target. You really should have a mil-dot scope for that kind of range. Luckliy tasco makes one for around $300

But generally.. for close up to 300 yards a tasco 3x9x40 is perfect and should run you around $100. DO NOT SKIMP on your Rings, bases and Screws. THESE will more likely fail then your scope. Throw away all alumninum rings and bases you will over tighten srtip bend and break these parts. use steel rings and bases and LOCK it all down with loc-tite. Avid getting solvent on the loctited screws. You will find your rifle will shoot better than you do if its done properly.

Hope it helps,

Dr.Rob
 

freestate

New member
Dr.Rob, I am of the opinion that you generally get what you pay for. Because of this I have never regretted paying more when buying a Leupold. However, I will have to be honest and admit that sometimes I wonder if the Swarovski I own is worth 3 to 4 times the price of the Leupolds. It is really nice, though.
 

jimc

New member
i have a nikon 6.5x20 on a dsa fn scope base using burris signature rings (high) due to the 40mm bell on the scope. new from cabellas runs $4and change, and you can find them at gun shows and also a few of the pawn shops in the ft. fun. the dsa scope mount is as well as the scope on the money. after numerous times of removal for cleaning has yet to lose zero. i am only 15min from where you live. give me a shout and feel free to check this setup out. maybe even if time allows do some range time.
 

Zak Smith

New member
Hey all. Here's an update. After some wrangling with DSA about a backordered item, I got everything assembled today:

Leupold Vari-XIII 2.5-8x36mm ($375), on
Leupold medium cross-slot rings ($60), on the
DSA SA58 scope mount ($95).

I will probably at some time replace these rings with something more heavy-duty in matte finish. I didn't feel like spending the extra $100 to get the Mark4 or Badger rings right now.

Assembly:

I had some trouble sliding the DSA mount on the receiver (Imbel) with the plates connected (loosened as far as possible). I ended up having to remove all the plates completely, place the mount on the recvr, and replacing the plates and screws. This is a pain in the butt with short fingers, but worked.

Assembly of the rest was without excitement.

The scope has optimum eye relief between 4.7" and 3.7". I mounted the scope so its rear edge was about 5/8" forward of the very rear edge of the weaver rail (or 1 5/8" forward of the iron sight when in its lowest position).

Then I spent about an hour trying to get the $%^& cross-hairs perfectly vertical. I still don't think it's on. Yes, I'm a perfectionist.

By this time, it was too late to drive out to the range, so I'll have to wait for tomorrow.

Sometime next week, I'm going to drop it off at the gunsmith (Proline in Fort Collins) to have the muzzle brake installed (DSA 3-hole).

Should I have him cut an inch or two off the barrel before he solders on the brake? It'd be awful long if I just stuck the brake on (overall length something like 43"). The length of barrel (from muzzle to front edge of recvr is 19 5/8").

Another thing I noticed is that this rifle is REALLY HEAVY! According to my super-scientific bathroom-scale method, it's up to 12.5 lbs with a full mag. I'm going to have to start lifting weights or something.

-z
 

George Hill

Staff Alumnus
You know - I had a very telling conversation with Gale McMillan at SHOT...
He told me and Rich that most of these scope companies all use the same glass... and same coatings...

So why pay more? Tasco - Simmons... Use till they are broke and get another one.
 

Zak Smith

New member
My dad has a few various Leupold Vari-X's (II and III) which have been used on his rifles for about as long as I've been alive, and they've never lost their zero, or malfunctioned. I'm willing to pay extra so I never have to replace it.

regards
-z
 

George Hill

Staff Alumnus
You've never dropped your rifle or while rapelling get slammed against the rock face or just lean your rifle up against a truck to then have it fall over with a sickening cracking sound... or... or...
Many things can bust up your scope. Optics are the most delicate part of the rifle... and ANY scope can have a massive failure.
This is why Jeff Cooper is trying to get someone the build a SOLID FIXED scope with adjustments to be made in the base.

Scopes can fail - and for most scoped rifles - should the scope fail, the gun no longer has any sights... Until replacement can be installed and sighted in.
Why pay the same price for a scope that you payed for the rifle its on?
Why spend hundreds of dollars more for the same lenses in that expensive "high end" scope that you could buy for 1/2 the price?
There is no need to do that. There are only a few companies that actually grind lenses... These few companies sell lenses to the companies that build scopes.
Its the Lens... the Glass that makes the scope work. Everthing else is just fluff.
There are few scopes that I consider worth the extra money. Things like a good BDC and an illuminated recticle are wonderful... and worth the money - if your a sniper. I aint a sniper... I dont need those features. I just need a regular ol scope. So why pay for those features?
I'ld rather pay for practice and learn my balistics. You become a better marksman that way - and you'll know where to hold over instead of dialing in numbers.
 

freestate

New member
George, there's a heck of a lot more to a scope than just glass. I would rather buy from a company that puts that glass in a scope that is made from quality materials with tight tolerances. You really think a scope made in China is going to be made to the same level of quality as one made here in the USA?
 

dlrector

New member
Personally, I can't imagine wanting any scope on an FAL other than a SUIT. This was Commonwealth issue. 4X, tritium lit. Fast to use, durable. These go for around $200. Mind you, to import them, they've had the tritium vials removed, but you can get battery powered LED unit to replace it. Plus, it "looks" right because they were issue.
 

gunmart

New member
i just got in bauch and lomb 4x12 elite 300 scopes in on a sloseout.there reg $499 .i got them on closeout for sale for $250.

[This message has been edited by gunmart (edited May 08, 2000).]
 

Nyterunner

New member
The IOR Valdada 4x scope with the illuminated Dragunov reticle (tritium) is INCREDIBLY tough and extremely well-made. I've got one on my FAL (DSA) and am COMPLETELY satisfied. You can't break it, and the optics are some of the best I've seen. You won't regret buying one of these! Price for quality is great, too. Around 350-400 bucks when I got mine.

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I don't CARE about pretty....I just want dangerous.
 
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