Best penetrating oil?

603Country

New member
I'm trying to swap out scopes on a rifle, and the screws in the rings are stuck solid. Scope's been on the rifle for 20 years or so. Sako rings with one screw per side per ring. I got a couple of them loose on the front mount with WD-40 overnight and heat, but the rear mount is super stuck. I put more WD-40 on it again and will wait another 24 hours. What's the best penetrating oil that you guys have used. I'll go get some when I buy a new hex key to replace the one that I snapped off.

Geez. Help me. Thanks.
 

oneoldsap

New member
The only thing WD-40 is good for is spraying down wet ignition systems . Which is what it was designed for ! Kroil is the best , Liquid Wrench or one of the other penetrating oils will work too.
 

Ritz

New member
PBlaster and Kroil both work for me.

My remaining supplies of liquid wrench/WD-40 have been relegated to being used as cutting oil on my mini-mill.
 

Mike / Tx

New member
I've been using Kroil for close to 30yrs in industry and on firearms, there simply isn't much it won't get loose, no matter how tight things are. It might take a day, or two, but it'll get it done.
 

Garycw

New member
I've used eezox not only on guns, but it loosens rusty bolts better than PB blaster. So it must penetrate pretty well
 

Capt Rick Hiott

New member
,,,,,"I use Kroil and avoid anything with acetone in it."

Why do you say that Clark?

Have any of you guys tried Transmisson fluid thinned a little with Acetone.


Google it....................
 

603Country

New member
Well, I tried all your suggestions and the two screws are still stuck. Worse than that is one of the screw heads stripped out. Damn. I guess drilling the stripped out one is the only way to go. If anybody has the next round of suggestions, I'm listening. Guess I have to find a gunsmith.
 

hoghunting

New member
Are they allen head screws or flat head screws? If they are allen head you should be able to fit a torx driver into the hole. For screws that don't want to move I put the rifle in a gun vice, use a tight fitting bit in the screwdriver and tap the top of the handle with a 2' length of 2"x4" while turning the screwdriver.

If that doesn't work mount the bit in a drill press, force the bit into the screw and turn the chuck by hand. Good luck.
 

Clark

New member
Capt Rick Hiott
Senior Member

Join Date: August 30, 2010
Posts: 153
,,,,,"I use Kroil and avoid anything with acetone in it."

Why do you say that Clark?

Have any of you guys tried Transmisson fluid thinned a little with Acetone.

It smells like my mother's finger nail polish remover in the 1950s.
 

HiBC

New member
I suggest that if you like this scope be very thoughtful about heat and exactly where your penetrating oil might creep.If it finds its way to any mechanical joint ,threads,or screws on the scope you may contaminate the inside.

I would lose the heat idea.Old lenses were laminated with balsam.You never know where newer scope may use superglue or equivalent.

How are you applying the oil?If on the heads,it may not have a path to the threads.Are the threads blind holes,so you do not have access from the bottom end?You might try the ring gap,where it is split.Maybe a thin hypodermic needle,or use an oil wet thread like dental floss,or? just figure a means to make a controlled application that makes it to the screw threads,but does not run down the tube.
Kroil is pretty good stuff.KW Knock-R-Loose is pretty good.I have not used it,but some say wintergreen oil.
Some O-rings and seals dissolve in acetone.

On the "Now I have to find a Gunsmith"....

I'm smiling as I say this,and hindsight is 20-20.Have you ever wondered why Gunsmiths can seem crotchety?Look at you over the top of their glasses,or even squinty eyed?I know one named Carl would probably ask you why you didn't bring it in before you lost the screw head?
I'm not trying to be a jerk,just an observation on Gunsmiths.
 
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603Country

New member
for the record, I was very careful that no penetrating oil went anywhere other than where I wanted it. I put it on and around the head of the screw, in the gap where the top and bottom rings didn't quite meet, and later I put it on the bottom of the screw. Anywhere oil went other than that was wiped up immediately with paper towels. I sure didn't want any on the wooden stock of the Sako. The wood is terrific.

The top of the screw has the hex (7/32). I'll try the torx approach, since I can't do much worse now. If that doesn't work, I suppose I'll just drill the screw out myself. I don't want to get old Carl upset, and if it comes to drilling out the screw or screws, I doubt there's much a smith can do that I can't.

Probably have to order new mounts/rings when I get finished with these. Dang.

The other option is to just leave the scope on the rifle. Nothing wrong with it. I just wanted to replace the Leupold VariX-III with the new VX-3 with the Varmint Hunter Reticle (both are 4.5-14x40). I plan to send the older scope off for reticle replacement, with Leupold's TMR reticle. I had it put in my 6.5-20x50 just recently and I really do like it.
 

Rifletom

New member
603C,
Good luck getting that stinking screw out; those things can rile a guy. BTW, what model is your Sako? I have an Finnbear, circa '67-68 that is really nice. And its the most accurate hunting rifle I own. So, I have a pretty good idea why you want to be extra careful. Keep us informed.
 

Don P

New member
Hope the screw comes out. Most likely culprit is steel screw cast/pot/aluminum rings = dissimilar metal corrosion which will lock things up tighter than a bulls butt in December in Alaska.
I'll suggest either silver or gold never-sieze on the new screw threads when installing the new scope.
 
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