bedding/shimming a boyds stock?

[idek]

To start with, I don't know much about bolt action guns. I've owned about 20 firearms over the past 20 years, but just got my first turn-bolt about a month ago.

I got a Savage .223 that came with a cheap non-Accu-stock. I replaced it with a Boyd's walnut stock. I like the stock, but the gun shifts a bit in it. Looking along the barrel channel, sometimes the barrel is free-floated right down the middle. Other times, it appears to touch or almost touch the right side.

I want to address this, but have no experience with this kind of thing. The gun is mostly for longer range plinking (no serious target work or varminting), and I don't necessarily need the absolute best option if it's difficult or expensive.

What are some options I could look into?

 

[Ifishsum]

Glass bedding the stock is the easiest method, at least it is after your first one. That will make sure that your rifle stays in exactly the same spot relative to the stock, and allows you to clearance areas you do not want to contact the stock. I bed Savages to free float the barrel and the rear tang; so far that has not failed to make a rifle shoot for me.

 

[idek]

Thanks for the reply. I've read a little about pillar bedding too. Some places make it sound like pillar bedding matters more with high-recoiling rifles and maybe wouldn't really matter on my .223. Any thoughts on this?

 

[T. O'Heir]

Hi. All of Boyd's stuff requires fitting. It's not drop in kit. You must have the right stock for your rifle too.
Glass bedding the stock is indeed easy to do(buy an Accraglas kit and read the directions on the box), but it will not fix what your issue is now. The stock doesn't fit right. Has high spots that are causing the receiver to move around. Those need to be removed. Relax, it's not a really difficult thing to do. Takes sand paper. NO ROTARY TOOLS.
Pillar bedding is just another technique.
If you have any qualms about doing it yourself, go to a smithy.

 

[dakota.potts]

Having used rotary tools to fit a Boyd's stock, I can confirm how easy it is to mess it up. Sandpaper and files are your best bet.

I did have a hole on my CZ 452 where the stock was too thick for the screw to attach, so I kissed it with a countersink bit until it would fit.

I've not had a true drop-in experience with any Boyd's stock, but they have really only required minor fitting. No more than a few hour's worth in most cases. I've done three.

Properly fitting the stock should meet your goals as T O'Heir mentioned. It seems like the rifle is not fully fitted to the stock which is allowing some flex. Channels (including the barrel channel) tend to be very generously routed, so you may find no bedding necessary after fitment.

 

[Jay24bal]

Why the hate for rotary tools on stock work? I just fit a 1" bull barrel into a Boyds stock designed for a sporter barrel, and used a dremel exclusively until it came time to finish it and smooth out grind lines. If I had to remove that much material with sandpaper and files, maybe my kid could one day shoot it, lol.

I would pillar and glass bed it. If you are only going to do one of them, pillar bed it. But you might as well do both while you have the epoxy out.

I just finished the gun below this past weekend. Savage action, Boyds Pro Varmint stock, 1" bull barrel, pillar and glass bedded (along with a lot of of other tuning and replacement parts).

PICTURES HERE

 

[dakota.potts]

Rotary tools definitely have their place, but it is very easy to remove too much or shape a feature that shouldn't be shaped (not to mention various gouges and other marks you can easily make on accident). People underestimate how much stock a good heavy cutting file can take off in a short amount of time.

EDIT: By the way, that's a very nice rifle. Love the machine work on the bolt and handle. Going from a sporter barrel to a bull barrel, a little power tool assistance is understandable

 

[jmr40]

Honestly, you'd be better off putting it back in the stock it came from the factory with.

 

[tobnpr]

Properly done, you'll be far better off than the tupperware stock.
The good thing about epoxy bedding, is removal of "too much" material isn't really an issue (unless way overdone). IMO, there's more of a risk of not removing enough, and ending up with a skim layer that could crack out.

The barrel channel is more delicate, there are tools for it but just find a wooden dowel (or two) of the appropriate diameter and wrap with sandpaper of the correct grit for the amount of material you're removing. The glue lines, if it's a laminate, are pretty hard- sure chew up router bits...

Anyway, bedding isn't difficult or complicated as long as you're careful-
Careful to mask the stock
Careful to plug the receiver (plumbers putty for me) everywhere needed so epoxy doesn't go where it's not wanted...
Careful to use plenty of release agent!!!

I've posted this link here many times, doesn't need to be followed to the letter- but it's a great article IMO:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/

 

[Clark]

As the man from Florida says, tupperware is terrible.

I bought this 1972 Sav 110 223 two years ago for $240

I put a Boyd's pro varmint stock on it last year..... & other stuff.

This is the first group at 100 yards.