Bedding/Floatin

[mitchell koster]

Bedding and Floating.

I'm about to start reloading ammo for dad's Ruger M77 hawkeye. Its Shooting 3" groups at 100metres with a CRAP nikko stirling 4/32 scope. My question is: Is it worth free floating the barrel and bedding it before i try to start getting good groups with loading?

Thanks for your oppinions.

MK

 

[smoakingun]

which are you wanting to do? bed or free float?

 

[mitchell koster]

Well thats the thing. Should i do both or just free float?

 

[hoghunting]

Is the barrel touching the stock now? Many sporter rifles have some upward pressure from the stock an inch or so from the tip of the forearm.

 

[rickdavis81]

I'd try both. I use devcon to bed. If the forearm is flexible you can reinforce it and make sure it's floated and the stock does not touch the barrel under pressure.

 

[smoakingun]

work up loads first, leave the stock alone. if you can't get the rifle to shoot, then look to the stock (providing the scope isn't moving or something like that) bedding the rifle implies that you intend for the stock to contact the barrel, freefloating is just the opposite. as to which is better, that is a topic for another thread

 

[mitchell koster]

thanks guys.

The barrel is touching the stock. The rifle is a Ruger M77 mk2 Hawkeye (laminate, stainless sporter.)

I think if the loads don't work then i'll start by free floating.

Thanks . Safe hunting all.

MK

 

[brian923]

Bedding the action is the best thing to do. I bed all my rifle when I get them. It ensures that the action and stock stay in the same relationship at all times. Working up a load just to have your stock/action relation change somehow and ultimatly change the harmonics of your rifle will all be for moot. If the stock is constantly changing the harmonics of the action and barrel, you'll never come up with a good load. You'll get super frustrated and waste lots of time and money. I've been there. My suggetion would be to bed the action and free float the barrel. Remember, if its a wood stock, after removing any wood, always reseal it to keep moisture out of it. Resealing any factory stock will also help keep if from warping. After this, shoot some factory ammo and see if it has improved. If so, now work up some loads.

 

[Hoskins]

I free floated my wooden stock WIN MOD 70, it was very easy & I only had to use sand paper, it isn't hard to do. Unfortunately I havent took it to the range yet, but will report results once I do.

 

[imacanuk]

First, get a better scope. Then, after it is properly and securely mounted see if the groups are still bad. Then [assuming they are still bad] free float the barrel using fine sand paper and a wooden dowel. Then [assuming the groups are still bad] get an aftermarket trigger. Then [assuming the groups are STILL bad] bed the rifle. Then [assuming the groups are STILL bad] curse yourself for having bought a Ruger. Then sell it [at a loss].
That is my experience with Rugers. The cycle repeats itself with Ruger owners. You're just at the start of the repeating cycle. Enjoy.

 

[GeauxTide]

I've got two Hawkeye's, a SS Compact and an All Weather. They both shoot mahvelous! As listed above, change the scope a Weaver, Redfield, or Leupold. If it doesn't group, then look to the stock.

 

[a7mmnut]

I've owned several Rugers. To put it simply, they're rough. Only one of four of my M77's ever shot without free floating. I bed when I float--it's the right time, and only reduces stock vibration and increases performance across the board with different bullet weights. The heck of it is, the recoil lugs are angled, which can really screw everything up. I experiment with pieces of brass shim under both angles of the lug after very generously free floating the entire barrel channel. Once I know how much compound I'm shooting for, I let it set up for a few seconds in the lug area while I glass in the rear tang and drill and fill the bottom of the lug slot. When it starts to get really stiff, I mount the rifle and torque the screws as usual. Never had any problems. One old M77R in 7 mag shot three factory ederal 150's into 3/8". It was a true 2 1/2" gun with the same ammo to start. However "results may vary", as they say. Lotsa luck.

PS:

Natchez still has those AETEC scopes for $79--very hard to beat for the $$$.

<7><))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

 

[ndking1126]

Bedding typically means bedding the action, while floating typically means floating the barrel.

Some people will bed the action and the barrel. Or some people will bed the action and about the first 2-3 inches of the barrel (representing the chamber part of the barrel).

I would say bed the action and work up a good load. If you are still not happy, try free floating the barrel. Free floating the barrel usually sees benefit when your barrel starts getting hot and expanding. It doesn't necessarily make the rifle more accurate over all. Might, but might not... each rifle is different.

 

[TXGunNut]

Try tailoring loads and experimenting with barrel fouling. I have a Ruger that won't shoot well clean. It also seems to like a load that I don't use in any other .30-06. I'm not convinced Rugers like a free-floating barrel, no idea why. Mine's not MOA, likely never will but I can live with 1.25-1.5" in a backup hunting rifle.

 

[davem]

Forgive my ignorance but maybe some of you can help me on a few similar points. You always bed the action, okay. You can bed the first few inches of the barrel or the entire barrel. I am interpreting that means each gun is sort of a law unto itself. Now, what about pillar bedding? Do you ONLY put in the pillars or do you include pillars along with bedding the action? And from what I've read, the bolt inside the pillar is not supposed to be in contact with any portion of the inside of the pillar, is that correct?
For those of you that have done a lot of rifles, what has generally worked best, bed only the first few inches of the barrel or the whole barrel?
Devcon- that's the expensive stuff that comes in a large quantity- I forget the exact name.

 

[Hoskins]

For those of you that have done a lot of rifles, what has generally worked best, bed only the first few inches of the barrel or the whole barrel?

This thread may be on the way to being better suited for the "Smitty" thread, but I'm gonna ask another question anyways... why do you bed the barrel, any portion of the barrel, if you are going to free float it? doesn't that defeat the purpose of floating it?

Also, please forgive/excuse my ignorance as well. I've been the shooter & not the "Smitty" for all my life. The closest thing to any smity work is illegal/field expident troubleshooting procedures to get our machine guns back in action when they go down hard.