AR-15 kits
- Thread starter Quartus
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Legionnaire
New member
Cap'n, when I was doing my research, several recommended J & T Distributing. Check them out.
capn'
Figured out a long time ago.........IF, tyou want to build a really sweet piece, you will spend at LEAST as much buying quality parts, as buying a complete assembled piece........Usually MORE.
Tried 6 ways from Sunday to cut costs, and come out ahead.,,the GOOD parts sellers, and components, have figured this out to a "T".
I never found a way to do so.................add to that, the fact you have to buy the correct tools to assemble, and you are DEFINITELY OVER.....................
Figured out a long time ago.........IF, tyou want to build a really sweet piece, you will spend at LEAST as much buying quality parts, as buying a complete assembled piece........Usually MORE.
Tried 6 ways from Sunday to cut costs, and come out ahead.,,the GOOD parts sellers, and components, have figured this out to a "T".
I never found a way to do so.................add to that, the fact you have to buy the correct tools to assemble, and you are DEFINITELY OVER.....................
GeneralChang
New member
I know that Mike Middleton at 281-379-6881 has Eagle Arms ar 15 20 inch a2 sight rifles for about 600. I thought it was a great deal so I snatched one up. Hope this helps
Shoes, you are probably right, but right now I've already got the reciever. Long story. So, now it needs to grow up into a real rifle.
The LAW may consider the receiver to be the gun, but it doesn't shoot worth beans the way it is!
Thanks for the tips, gentlemen. Any more? I'd really like to find a complete kit for my stripped receiver.
The LAW may consider the receiver to be the gun, but it doesn't shoot worth beans the way it is!
Thanks for the tips, gentlemen. Any more? I'd really like to find a complete kit for my stripped receiver.
Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. Duh.
I'm really not into building the latest trick gizmo laden AR. I just want a legal version of the M-16, a reliable shooter with which I can hit well and am very comfortable. I'd be just as happy buying one as building one.
It's an Eagle Arms by Armalite. Spand branking new. Whats the going rate?
I'm really not into building the latest trick gizmo laden AR. I just want a legal version of the M-16, a reliable shooter with which I can hit well and am very comfortable. I'd be just as happy buying one as building one.
It's an Eagle Arms by Armalite. Spand branking new. Whats the going rate?
Just a word of advise. I did the same thing you're thiking of doing.
Allthe mail order companies advertize their barrels as being "match grade". Well that may be, but that also means the chambers will be tighter & they nor the barrel will be chrome-lined.
This translates out to them being finicky about the ammo you feed them. which is a pain in the rear. Mine would feed & extract Federal American Eagle all day long, but any thing else would get stuck in the chamber aftyer firing & wouldn't extract.
You're better off going to www.ar15.com ,selling your lower rec' & buying a new Bushmaster AR-15. Or do what I did switch to the FAL.
Happy Blastin'
Dave
Allthe mail order companies advertize their barrels as being "match grade". Well that may be, but that also means the chambers will be tighter & they nor the barrel will be chrome-lined.
This translates out to them being finicky about the ammo you feed them. which is a pain in the rear. Mine would feed & extract Federal American Eagle all day long, but any thing else would get stuck in the chamber aftyer firing & wouldn't extract.
You're better off going to www.ar15.com ,selling your lower rec' & buying a new Bushmaster AR-15. Or do what I did switch to the FAL.
Happy Blastin'
Dave
I like the Model 1 kit I got a few months ago. It isn't an "M4" forgery and doesn't have a chrome lined barrel (both of which I think are just trendy fads and have little to do with the gun functioning appropriately) This thing shoots just fine and looks great.
Building your own is still a good way to get an inexpensive AR and learn heaps in the process. I had one of those stripped lowers too. Well it wasn't stripped, it was an assembled Colt. I used that with the kit's upper and built another lower on a different stripped lower I had. Add another left over 16" upper from a Bushmaster and:
Two ARs born on the same day in my basement!!
The uppers are already assembled and headspaced (at least those from Model 1 are, I don't know about all companies, ask before ordering)
The whole thing only cost about $680.00, including shipping and that includes the extra $24.00 I spent for an upgraded flashhider.
You can't see the rearing Colt pony because the photo is a little fuzzy and the stamping is a little shallow - the only flaw in the gun as far as I can see.
That's my baby!
Building your own is still a good way to get an inexpensive AR and learn heaps in the process. I had one of those stripped lowers too. Well it wasn't stripped, it was an assembled Colt. I used that with the kit's upper and built another lower on a different stripped lower I had. Add another left over 16" upper from a Bushmaster and:
Two ARs born on the same day in my basement!!
The uppers are already assembled and headspaced (at least those from Model 1 are, I don't know about all companies, ask before ordering)
The whole thing only cost about $680.00, including shipping and that includes the extra $24.00 I spent for an upgraded flashhider.
You can't see the rearing Colt pony because the photo is a little fuzzy and the stamping is a little shallow - the only flaw in the gun as far as I can see.
That's my baby!
slickpuppy
New member
In the past 10 or 11 years I have built 2 complete ar15 rifles from kits - both from Quality Parts/Bushmaster. Never any problems at all. Also, I have assembled 4 different uppers in the same time frame.
The lower is pretty easy to put together. About the only tool you may need to buy there is a wrench for the stock and buffer assembly and that is pretty cheap - about $20 from BM but you can get them for less I'm sure. Bushmaster has lower build kits available - $65. You will also need the A2 stock kit as well - about $75. I would definitely get the BM parts for the lower. As for the stock/buffer assembly - check around on those.
Before you buy any parts, either buy the military technical manuals from Bushmaster or download them from http://www.ar15.com
For the upper I would just buy one. Bushmasters are headspaced. You will save money on specialty tools that way. BTW, the chrome-lined barrels are what is used in the military rifles and is what comes with most kits - been that way for years - long before everyone jumped on the match barrel bandwagon. They aren't as tight as the non chrome-lined barrels, but I doubt you will see a difference with a bone stock AR. If you were building a match rifle that would be a different story.
It isn't like when I built mine. There was a major cost savings. As mentioned above, the players have it figured out pretty well. If they don't nail you for a complete rifle they will nail you on tools and components.
www.bushmaster.com
The lower is pretty easy to put together. About the only tool you may need to buy there is a wrench for the stock and buffer assembly and that is pretty cheap - about $20 from BM but you can get them for less I'm sure. Bushmaster has lower build kits available - $65. You will also need the A2 stock kit as well - about $75. I would definitely get the BM parts for the lower. As for the stock/buffer assembly - check around on those.
Before you buy any parts, either buy the military technical manuals from Bushmaster or download them from http://www.ar15.com
For the upper I would just buy one. Bushmasters are headspaced. You will save money on specialty tools that way. BTW, the chrome-lined barrels are what is used in the military rifles and is what comes with most kits - been that way for years - long before everyone jumped on the match barrel bandwagon. They aren't as tight as the non chrome-lined barrels, but I doubt you will see a difference with a bone stock AR. If you were building a match rifle that would be a different story.
It isn't like when I built mine. There was a major cost savings. As mentioned above, the players have it figured out pretty well. If they don't nail you for a complete rifle they will nail you on tools and components.
www.bushmaster.com
sleeping dog
New member
Captain,
I finished mine on an Eagle/Armalite stripped lower. I ordered the kit to complete the lower from Armalite, the kit with the 2-stage trigger (buttstock kit $65, other hardware $150 from http://www.armalite.com). Then ordered a complete A2-style upper from http://www.rockriverarms.com, 20" stainless barrel, 1 turn in 8", not chrome-lined. The only "accessory" is a web sling from an M1 Garand, dyed black. For plinking, it seems to shoot all ammo just fine. Even wolf. But I don't shoot fast, so the chamber never heats up to the point where the lacquer on the wolf case could melt and gum up the works. Mostly, I shoot brass-cased ammo.
The only special tool I got was a plate with a cutout for the receiver extension (buffer tube) to put on my torque wrench. I think the tube is put on with about 37 ft-lb, if memory is working.
Regards.
Hey Yorec - nice picture.
I finished mine on an Eagle/Armalite stripped lower. I ordered the kit to complete the lower from Armalite, the kit with the 2-stage trigger (buttstock kit $65, other hardware $150 from http://www.armalite.com). Then ordered a complete A2-style upper from http://www.rockriverarms.com, 20" stainless barrel, 1 turn in 8", not chrome-lined. The only "accessory" is a web sling from an M1 Garand, dyed black. For plinking, it seems to shoot all ammo just fine. Even wolf. But I don't shoot fast, so the chamber never heats up to the point where the lacquer on the wolf case could melt and gum up the works. Mostly, I shoot brass-cased ammo.
The only special tool I got was a plate with a cutout for the receiver extension (buffer tube) to put on my torque wrench. I think the tube is put on with about 37 ft-lb, if memory is working.
Regards.
Hey Yorec - nice picture.
Every so often, I resurrect an old post of mine.
The AR-15 is a wonderfully simple and modular weapon. You really ought to build one yourself.
First, get a Marine Corp technical manual for the M-16 for about $6, from Brownell's. Read that and also read the info on ar15.com. They have detailed instructions, too. Then get some tools--Screwdrivers, torque wrench. You might also need to get a military surplus AR-15/M-16 wrench tool for a few more bucks.
I got a stripped lower receiver from someone at ar15.com for about $100. It was made by PWA--"Pacific West Arms" of Milan, Illinois. A little birdie tells me that it is the same company that makes receivers for the folks at Wilson Combat. Lowers are available from Bushmaster, ASA, Olympic Arms, and lots of other sources. Shop around and get one transferred to you through your FFL.
I then got a 16" A2 carbine kit from J & T Distributing . They are a very helpful and pleasant company to deal with. The current price for what I got is $440. The kit is manufactured by some military contractor, reportedly FN, and includes everything to turn the lower into a complete gun. The barrel is already correctly installed on the upper receiver and correctly headspaced. Many kits are available--20", bull-barreled, flattop, as well as genuine Colt M-4 kits.
I then spent an enjoyable afternoon putting my rifle together. You also need to get some magazines, a sling, and perhaps a front sight adjustment tool.
Cost: $6 + $100 + $440 + FFL fees + magazines + accessories + some of your time == Much cheaper than buying one already made. Of course you would have no customer service for the entire gun, but you probably won't need it. The J&T Distributing parts are top-notch and their customer service has been great. After putting the thing together, you would probably have the know-how to service it yourself if the need arose.
Of course, if you start tacking on all sorts of accessories such as optics, flashlights, accessory rails, lasers, and so forth, the cost would go way up. The only accessory I used was the plastic Ergo-Grip because it is much more comfortable than the standard grip.
My completed gun has never malfunctioned and is very accurate.
The AR-15 is a wonderfully simple and modular weapon. You really ought to build one yourself.
First, get a Marine Corp technical manual for the M-16 for about $6, from Brownell's. Read that and also read the info on ar15.com. They have detailed instructions, too. Then get some tools--Screwdrivers, torque wrench. You might also need to get a military surplus AR-15/M-16 wrench tool for a few more bucks.
I got a stripped lower receiver from someone at ar15.com for about $100. It was made by PWA--"Pacific West Arms" of Milan, Illinois. A little birdie tells me that it is the same company that makes receivers for the folks at Wilson Combat. Lowers are available from Bushmaster, ASA, Olympic Arms, and lots of other sources. Shop around and get one transferred to you through your FFL.
I then got a 16" A2 carbine kit from J & T Distributing . They are a very helpful and pleasant company to deal with. The current price for what I got is $440. The kit is manufactured by some military contractor, reportedly FN, and includes everything to turn the lower into a complete gun. The barrel is already correctly installed on the upper receiver and correctly headspaced. Many kits are available--20", bull-barreled, flattop, as well as genuine Colt M-4 kits.
I then spent an enjoyable afternoon putting my rifle together. You also need to get some magazines, a sling, and perhaps a front sight adjustment tool.
Cost: $6 + $100 + $440 + FFL fees + magazines + accessories + some of your time == Much cheaper than buying one already made. Of course you would have no customer service for the entire gun, but you probably won't need it. The J&T Distributing parts are top-notch and their customer service has been great. After putting the thing together, you would probably have the know-how to service it yourself if the need arose.
Of course, if you start tacking on all sorts of accessories such as optics, flashlights, accessory rails, lasers, and so forth, the cost would go way up. The only accessory I used was the plastic Ergo-Grip because it is much more comfortable than the standard grip.
My completed gun has never malfunctioned and is very accurate.
Kit's
The ONLY way to build a really good unit, and mil spec, is to go either Bushie, OR DPMS on the parts...........(Excluding DPMS lowers)
The mosel 1 sales barrel asy's are not mil spec, and the sites are cast,............not forged........( easily distinguished by a straight parting line on the front of the sight ).Forged, are IRREGULAR.......
Also, do not make the mistake of buying a barrel that is threaded, and or, has a bayo lug...............they will be illegal when you install them and build a rifle............Preban reciever, or POST makes no diiference......(IF the Pre was not a complete rifle to begin with.)
A lot of folks are INNOCENTLY runnung around with illegal rigs........but, unfortunately........Ignorance of the laws is not a defense.............
The ONLY way to build a really good unit, and mil spec, is to go either Bushie, OR DPMS on the parts...........(Excluding DPMS lowers)
The mosel 1 sales barrel asy's are not mil spec, and the sites are cast,............not forged........( easily distinguished by a straight parting line on the front of the sight ).Forged, are IRREGULAR.......
Also, do not make the mistake of buying a barrel that is threaded, and or, has a bayo lug...............they will be illegal when you install them and build a rifle............Preban reciever, or POST makes no diiference......(IF the Pre was not a complete rifle to begin with.)
A lot of folks are INNOCENTLY runnung around with illegal rigs........but, unfortunately........Ignorance of the laws is not a defense.............
captainHoek,
Until about 2 years ago I'd never even seen the innards of an AR. On a whim I bought 2 ASA lowers from a friend. At the same time I ordered a 20" A2 kit from Model 1 Sales. I requested the NM sights option with this one. Also ordered the JT trigger upgrade. The kit went together just fine, no problems.
A few months later I ordered a 16" CAR kit from M&A. Got the flattop upper so I could mount a scope. Same deal. No problems with assembly.
Both kits have Wilson barrels (non-chromed), 1-9 twist.
Since then I've fired approx. 1500 rounds through them and must say that these are two very reliable and accurate little rifles. In fact, they are the 2 most accurate rifles I own. The CAR with a Tasco 3x9 mildot scope consistently shoots Sierra 52gr. match bullets between 3/4 and 5/8 inch at 100 yds. (5 shot groups). The other one, with irons, will stay between 3/4 and 1 inch with the Sierra 52's and less than 1-1/4 with the IMI 62gr. SCBT.
IN fact, last weekend, I used the 20" in an NRA highpower match in Joplin MO. This was a "shorty course" at 100 yds using the proper scaled targets, MR-31, SR-21, and SR-1. I scored a 745 x 800 (93.1%). This is Expert Class, just a few points shy of the Master Class range. I know this rifle will do MUCH better as I blew the sitting stage with a bad sight change. For comparison, my BEST score with a .30 caliber was with my M1-A. Same range, same targets, a 420 x 500 (84%.. low edge of Sharpshooter).
As far as reliability goes, the 2 or 3 jams I've experienced have always been traced to a bad magazine or a bulged case (over crimped).
If you think I'm happy with my M&A and Model 1 Sales AR kits, you are right......... I recommend them wholeheartedly.
Best to all,
Swampy
Until about 2 years ago I'd never even seen the innards of an AR. On a whim I bought 2 ASA lowers from a friend. At the same time I ordered a 20" A2 kit from Model 1 Sales. I requested the NM sights option with this one. Also ordered the JT trigger upgrade. The kit went together just fine, no problems.
A few months later I ordered a 16" CAR kit from M&A. Got the flattop upper so I could mount a scope. Same deal. No problems with assembly.
Both kits have Wilson barrels (non-chromed), 1-9 twist.
Since then I've fired approx. 1500 rounds through them and must say that these are two very reliable and accurate little rifles. In fact, they are the 2 most accurate rifles I own. The CAR with a Tasco 3x9 mildot scope consistently shoots Sierra 52gr. match bullets between 3/4 and 5/8 inch at 100 yds. (5 shot groups). The other one, with irons, will stay between 3/4 and 1 inch with the Sierra 52's and less than 1-1/4 with the IMI 62gr. SCBT.
IN fact, last weekend, I used the 20" in an NRA highpower match in Joplin MO. This was a "shorty course" at 100 yds using the proper scaled targets, MR-31, SR-21, and SR-1. I scored a 745 x 800 (93.1%). This is Expert Class, just a few points shy of the Master Class range. I know this rifle will do MUCH better as I blew the sitting stage with a bad sight change. For comparison, my BEST score with a .30 caliber was with my M1-A. Same range, same targets, a 420 x 500 (84%.. low edge of Sharpshooter).
As far as reliability goes, the 2 or 3 jams I've experienced have always been traced to a bad magazine or a bulged case (over crimped).
If you think I'm happy with my M&A and Model 1 Sales AR kits, you are right......... I recommend them wholeheartedly.
Best to all,
Swampy
Steve Smith
New member
What you really want for a barrel...
is perhaps one with a "Wylde chamber." Bill Wylde, riflesmith extroidinaire, developed an AR chamber that's tighter than a Mil-Spec chamber and looser than a match chamber. May HP shooters use them because they provide a good amount of accuracy and reliability.
Rock River's Wilson barrels are cut with a Wylde chamber cutter.
is perhaps one with a "Wylde chamber." Bill Wylde, riflesmith extroidinaire, developed an AR chamber that's tighter than a Mil-Spec chamber and looser than a match chamber. May HP shooters use them because they provide a good amount of accuracy and reliability.
Rock River's Wilson barrels are cut with a Wylde chamber cutter.