Anyone Using Reduced Power Springs From Wolff in S&W J Frame (5 shot Chief's Spcl)?

[Powder_Burn]

I am interested in installing a reduced power spring kit for my little Scandium .357 since the double action trigger pull is extremely heavy (360PD). However, this is my concealed carry gun and I am concerned that I could get light strikes that could cause a misfire. Normally I carry with .357 Speer Short-Barrel Gold Dots.

Anyone out there having good or bad luck using a 12,13,14, or 15 lb springs? How big of a difference does it make and is it still reliable?

Thanks in advance!

Reference:
http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolver/SmithWesson_RvNF.html#S&WJ

"This pak contains 1 each 8 pound reduced power hammer spring and 1 each 13, 14 and 15 pound reduced power rebound springs allowing adjustment for lighter and smoother trigger and hammer action."

 

[Majic]

The number one thing to compromise reliability in a J-frame is to use weaker mainsprings. You can install a weaker rebound spring, but beware using one so weak that you can outrun the trigger as this is your CCW. Just have the action polished so you will have a smooth pull and keep the stock springs.

 

[tlm225]

I just installed a set of Wolf springs in my wife's J-frame model 34 (.22 cal). We had a 50% fail to fire rate with the reduced rate mainspring but that may have been caused by it being a rimfire. We are still using the 13# rebound spring with success. Although the trigger return is noticeably slower it doesn't "stick". This pistol is used only for target shooting, not self defense.

 

[Mike Irwin]

Yep, in my 042.

No problems so far in over 500 rounds fired.

 

[Jim Watson]

My 642 is reliable with a reduced mainspring, my old M38 requires a full power spring for good ignition. If you change the springs you must do enough shooting to demonstrate reliability, each gun is an individual and you will not get a definitive answer on the internet.

 

[mtnbkr]

Like Jim said, each gun is an individual. I would start with a lighter rebound spring (start with the 14 or 15lb models), some light polishing (also a bit of light grease on the internals), and lots of dryfiring. If it's still too heavy, then try a slightly lighter hammer spring, but make sure it's still reliable.

Chris

 

[HSMITH]

I agree with Majic. Keep the full power springs.

 

[CraigJS]

If possible only change one of the springs at a time.. I have a M85 Taurus that I first changed the trigger spring (lighter) tested it. 100% on over 150 rounds. Then I added a reduced power hammer spring and tested it. 80-90% in over 150 rounds, bye-bye lighter (stock reinstalled) hammer spring.. I've shot over 500 rounds since, 100% again.

 

[Mike in VA]

I put a set in my wifes 317 (8 shot .22). I used the 13# spring - it lightened up the trigger nicely, and have had no trouble with light strikes. I got a set if 3 trigger springs (12, 13, 15 # IIRC) and a reduced strength hammer spring for about $8 from Brownell's. I had never done anything like it before, took me about 1.5 hours.

 

[Mike Irwin]

Changing the rebound spring will NOT cause problems with light primer strikes. It can cause problems with trigger reset.

Changing the main spring may cause light primer strikes, but it will have a surprisingly limited effect on overall felt/perceived trigger pull. For that, you need to lighten the rebound slide spring.

 

[Powder_Burn]

Just wanted to update everyone on this post. Had a gunsmith install the Brownell's Pro Spring kit (made by Wolff) and I used the 13lb Rebound Spring and the Reduced Power Hammer Spring that came in the kit. My 360PD now shoots better than ever and I have not had a problem with light strikes in Winchester and Hornady ammo.

 

[El Paso Joe]

Wolf springs

I have installed reduced mainspring and rebound springs in both my M60 and 640 with no ill effects. After slicking up the internals, the trigger pull is a lot better. The only misfire was with a funky set of handloads in .38 (2 out of a couple hundred) but never with any of the factory loads I use when I CCW.

 

[MADISON]

"J" frame

I can nooot tell you about a "J" frame gun but, I always get the "kit" with multi-weights. You then have an option. If one does not pop primers then you move to the next strongest spring.

 

[M1911]

I've got reduced powern rebound springs (which I have further cut a couple coils off of) in my 642, 60, and 317. I've also polished the rebound slides and very, very lightly polished the frame in this area. I won't go anywhere near the hammer and sear with my limited skills. No misfires. YMMV.

 

[Yankee Doodle]

Before I retired, we were not permitted to alter the actions of our issue .38 revolvers in any way. IN ANY WAY. My first range instructor taught us the following rules to live by. Thought I would pass them on. This seems as good a time as any:

1. If the trigger pull is too heavy, practice until you are used to it. If you alter the piece, and it malfunctions, your widow will have no one to sue.

2. You can double the stopping power of any caliber firearm by pulling the trigger again. In a self defense situation, this is not only legal, but advisable.

3. A back-up gun is faster than any reload. You have to practice with it as well.

Make what you will of them, but they work for me.

Y.D.

 

[MR.G]

I have the Wolf 11 lb. rebound springs and standard power mainsprings in all of my S&W revolvers. Have used the reduced power mainsprings without any problems, but I like the full power mainsprings. I also polish the internals when installing reduced power springs. If there is too much drag the trigger won't return properly. Changing the coil mainspring on the J frame doesn't seem to help the trigger pull very much. A swap to a Power Rib mainspring in the larger frame S&W revolvers makes a big difference.