Any welders here?

Lavan

New member
I don't know where to post this, so I'm putting it here.

Can anyone weld up a 6 inch square and some chains that could be looped over a target frame and shot with a 22?

Wouldn't have to be super durable BIG chain as I don't think a 22LR would cut it.

Probably bolts and washers would be way to attach the square.

Here's the idea.

chain_target.jpg


What would you charge to make and ship something like this to me in CA?

Maybe some other posters would also like one or so.
:confused:
 

MurBob

New member
Pay the shipping and materials and I'll do it for free.

I don't think you need any welding though. Just bolt the chain to the plate and use a hook on the other end.

The chain wraps over whatever and use the hook to attach the chain to itself.

Or even just bolt the chain back to itself for a bit more permanent hold.
 

MurBob

New member
Instead of paying all that shipping and stuff, why not just bolt the chain right to the plate like in the photo?

safetychain2.jpg
 
Instead of paying all that shipping and stuff, why not just bolt the chain right to the plate like in the photo?
You still need a drill press, vice, stop, and some minimal knowledge of metal working to drill those holes. You also need to find decent quality bolts that will hold up to hits of 9mm. I don't think Lowe's carries any. It really isn't a project just anyone can tackle with a normal households tools(hand drill). I wouldn't want to try and drill holes in hardened steel with a hand drill.
 

FITASC

New member
He said it was 22lr in the first post; or did I miss something.

Any decent piece of scrap steel with the thickness you want could be done - I'd ask at scrap and recycle places or even local welding shops.
 

Deltadart

New member
Any Welder Here

I used stainless steel anchor chain shackles, Lowes or Home Depot has them. The chain may be galvanized, which must be removed prior to welding.
 

Hunter Customs

New member
There's really no welding needed.

You can make a hole big enough for the chain to pass through and attach the chain to itself, or make a hole with a slot for the chain like on a pipe gate.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
 
Any decent piece of scrap steel with the thickness you want could be done
Sort of. The softer the metal the thicker it needs to be. Thicker=heavier. Heavier = less reaction when hit. 6 inch square strikes me as a pretty large target for 22lr.
I have had a few of the cheaper 22lr targets found at big box stores. None of them last all that long. 500 rounds of 22lr will do most of them in. I could probably hammer them somewhat flat on an anvil. I wouldn't waste the time making a custom target out of soft steel.
 

FITASC

New member
That's why I use those spinners designed for 44, they don't move much with 22, but I'm covered from 22 to 357
 

Lavan

New member
Think I want to go lighter.

This is for 100 yds. Don't know if you could even tell if it was a THICK piece.
 

driz

New member
Here is the best place hands down for what you want. It's hit and miss but a great resource anyways especially if you ever get into welding . Take a drive down to the local STEEL FAB SHOP. The guys who have the huge hollow building with the massive doors and the huge horizontal lift going across inside. You daily see semi's parked there with loads of flat and angle steel there unloading.
These guys do nothing but cut steel off 20' and longer runs of stock all day long to send to local contractors. They generate a few hundred lbs of scrap and cut offs every single day at least. It sits over by the ancient monster band saw and when they save the longer pieces on the side and pitch everything else in the 55 gallon barrel then when full it goes in the dumpster outside. I'm talking 1/8" at thinnest mild steel and usually up to 3/8". A lot of it is flat stock and the rest is either angle L shaped or I beam as well as thin and thick walled pipe up to around 5 or 6". You never know when you might need some of that pipe too for other projects.
You can almost surely find something that you can use. At most you won't spend over 10 bucks and likely they will just give you a few pieces if thats all you want. Just remember it's hit or miss according to what builders have ordered the last couple days.
All you need to do then is get a regular drill, steel bit and a block of 2x4. Put the plate on it, step on it and drill. No need for any drill press or even a starter punch. Get ya some el cheapo S hooks at the Chinese Tool store stick some cheap chain through and bang the ends shut with a hammer, paint and done.:p:p
The other alternative is the scrap yard. They got it but if you don't have a chop saw or torch to cut it it's usually not worth the hassle. It is a good resource if you do start making a lot of them later on . As with The steel fabricator shop the good old boy places will treat you better.
 

dakota.potts

New member
I was out shooting my .22 today and there was a gentleman with some steel plates out there that he let us take some shots at. There were two sizes, a small square (4 or 6" maybe) and a larger round plate (maybe 8"). Both were pretty thick, 3/8" to 1/2". The smaller plate did not have much of a giveaway when you shot it. You could see it move somewhat if you hit center, but it didn't give much of a sound. The larger plate gave a nice ring that was very audible even with .22.
 
steel bit and a block of 2x4. Put the plate on it, step on it and drill. No need for any drill press or even a starter punch.
"Starter punch" or a "center punch"?
And I could point you to some threads in the shop owner section of the practical machinist forums where people had employees get seriously injured using similar methods even on aluminum. I saw a guy cut the crap out of his hand reaming just a few thousandths with a hand drill.
I've always hear if you yell "Bubba, hold my beer" before you start you won't have any problems though.

I cut sheet metal with an old Craftsman belt drive table saw once and I didn't die, so it must be safe.
 

driz

New member
I should have said in regard to drilling to hold on tight. Truth is drills almost always grab only when they start through the other side. Even then it's almost nill if you use a small drill under 1/4". It's the big hole hogs that will really bite you, meaning the metal piece will start turning rather than the drill or the drill will try to wrap you around it. Wimpy drills aren't much worry there either.
I forgot to mention how best to cut that thick stuff if you don't have a chop saw , band saw or torch; just use your hand 7 1/4" skill saw. Steel cutting disks are about $3.50 at Lowes. The only requirement is that the saw can't have a plastic blade guard because it will melt it. Cutting it this way is slow but gets the job done as does a steel blade in a demo saw or hand jug saw. They all work better than the dreaded hack saw which is really good for about nothing. Just toss on some safety glasses and ear protection with them power tools because he crap does fly and it's loud.
 
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