Another addition to the family

[Coinneach]

On Saturday, I bought a Raven .25. (insert sheepish grin here). To make up for this heinous atrocity, I stopped back in at the shop today.

Ya see, they've been holding something for me. Keeping it well hidden, lest someone else snag it. And keeping an exorbitant price tag on it in case someone happened to stumble upon it.

I now have a .50.

No, not a BMG or AE... a CVA .50 caplock blackpowder. 24" barrel with a bore like the Eesenhoover Tunnel. Set trigger. Gorgeous engraving.

DAMN but it's a beauty. I can't wait for the next range trip.

 

[4V50 Gary]

Congratulations on getting a smoke pole. They're a lot more fun to than modern guns (can you say challenge).

Here's a lazy approach to cleaning. I wipe down my barrel after every 5 shots with denatured alcohol which you can get at paint shops. Don't use rubbing alcohol as it contains water. Denatured alcohol will remove a lot of fouling and dries quickly, thereby precluding any possibility of rust. When you get home or to camp, cleaning is a real breeze.

 

[700PSS Shooter]

Getting accuracy from the frontloader is a lot of fun, and not difficult. I am a roundball shooter and use black powder if at all possible, and a homemade beewax-tallow lube (except in summer). Many variables like patch thickness, ball diameter, lube, charge, etc. When is all clicks it is very satifying. Even a mass produced cheap rifle can get a sub-2" group at 50 yards with the shooter doing their part, and that will take a deer.

When shooting, I cut a number of 1"x1" patches from t-shirt material. As I load, I put one in my mouth. After firing, I use the wet patch to swab the bore. It cleans out fouling, kills any lingering sparks, and since it is not real wet, leaves no moisture, especially as the barrel warms. Just remember one use ONLY!

The lube is very important in keeping the fouling soft.

I then do the standard cleaning routine of hot water, followed by oiling the bore. I use CLP and swab the bore before shooting. I always re-check the barrel the day following cleaning just to make sure there is no rust. Have fun.

Bill

 

[Noban]

Good luck with your CVA. My friend has one and it is very reliable - never a misfire in thousands of rounds.

If you have the model that allows parting the barrel from the breach, cleaning will be a snap. Put the breach end in a bucket of very hot water and simple green. Run patches through the barrel, causing a suction that will draw the water through the nipple. Pump like mad. After about 5 minutes, dry the barrel with a few patches and lay aside. The heated metal will continue to dry itself. After about 10 minutes (while you clean up the rest of the rifle), coat the bore and outside of the barrel with a natural lube, like tallow, beaswax or one of the commercial products. These substances work real well on the wood as well. I think its a real bad idea to use petroleum based products in a front loader as they can cause the powder residue to form a tarry substance that is a real ***** to clean out (personal experience).

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by Noban (edited July 10, 2000).]

 

[Coinneach]

Guys, thanks for the tips, but this is my first BP *rifle*. I also have an 1860 Army that's tremendous fun to shoot (if less so to clean ).

Hmm, what else... rear sight is adjustable for elevation and windage. Front sight is drift-adjustable for windage. 18" heavy octagonal barrel (twist unknown). The barrel wedge comes out a hell of a lot easier than the wedge on my wheelgun. Wood/brass ramrod. Built-up cheekpiece. Rubber buttpad (but that can be fixed).

I've been grinning and giggling ever since I got this beauty home. The range is gonna be smoky and stinky this weekend!

 

[700PSS Shooter]

Your rate of twist will most likely be (with an 18" barrel) 1-28", which is maximized for a conical bullet. I am basing this on the rubber recoil pad and cheekpiece, which makes the rifle sound like a hunting carbine designed for the black powder season in many states.

The next possibility would be 1-48" which is a good compromise for both conical bullet and roundball. My T/C Hawken was 1 in 48" and is accurate with both.

My T/C Renegade with the 1-66" deepcut rifling roundball barrel is more accurate, but with roundballs only. It will not shoot conicals. The difference in accuracy is significant for target shooting, but not for hunting.

With a conical I would start with a 60-70 gr. charge of FFg and work up. With the short barrel, 85-90 gr. will most likely be the max, without blowing a lot of unburnt powder out the bore.

Good shooting.

"I love the smell of black powder in the morning. It smells like history."

[This message has been edited by 700PSS Shooter (edited July 11, 2000).]

 

[Coinneach]

Thanks for the data, 700. I've picked up some .490 roundball and will get some Buffalo minies on the way home, then see what I can see this weekend.

 

[700PSS Shooter]

For the .490 roundballs, start with .015 cotton patches. Never, ever use any synthetic cloth for patches as it will melt and leave a royal mess in the bore.

I prefer Ox-Yoke prelubed. They are yellowish. They will be hard to start, so get a short starter. The tighter, the better. Target roundball shooters will sometimes use a small leather mallet to start the ball. Don't worry, .490 balls and .015 patches are not that bad.

After shooting, retrieve some of the patches. They should have an X pattern on them and not appear burnt or cut. It they are burnt, they are too thin and flame is getting past the ball. It they are cut, they are too tight and possibly too thin.

Good shooting.

Bill