Alloy Frame Longevity
- Thread starter Dobe
- Start date
silver-bullet
New member
For what it's worth, the AVERAGE durability of the alloy frames on the Beretta 92 is over 30,000 rounds. This, according to the rigorous testing the 92 endured during the selection process for the military contract. If you were just relying on factory rounds, you'd have to shoot at least $3,600 worth of ammunition before you'd need to worry about the alloy frame of your pistol. 
alloy frame wear
Have a SIG P220 .45acp that was bought new in 1980. Steel slide, alloy frame. Gun has not been shot much, only about 3,000 rnds, the only wear detectable is on the blued finish of the contact surfaces on the moving parts. And the DA trigger smoothed up a bit, on its own.
Have a SIG P220 .45acp that was bought new in 1980. Steel slide, alloy frame. Gun has not been shot much, only about 3,000 rnds, the only wear detectable is on the blued finish of the contact surfaces on the moving parts. And the DA trigger smoothed up a bit, on its own.
I had concerns over the alloy parts on my Beretta 87T...>
...but moreso from the viewpoint of the durability of the finish than from a functional wear aspect. The finish, a flat black over the alloy, just didn't inspire a lot of confidence. I don't know how it is produced but it seems more akin to a paint than a blue. I have put about 4,000 rounds through the pistol so far and in terms of reliability and general ergonomics I couldn't be happier. It's a great pistol. The alloy finish has deteriorated, but not as much as I had expected. I certainly don't beat the gun but it will pick up marks fairly easily when compared to well-blued steel. I expect that if you were hard on the pistol it wouild look shabby fairly quickly but that shouldn't adversely affect the functioning. In terms of internal wear that has been minimal, limited to the loss of some finish where the rails rub. I ensure the pistol is clean and lubricated.
...but moreso from the viewpoint of the durability of the finish than from a functional wear aspect. The finish, a flat black over the alloy, just didn't inspire a lot of confidence. I don't know how it is produced but it seems more akin to a paint than a blue. I have put about 4,000 rounds through the pistol so far and in terms of reliability and general ergonomics I couldn't be happier. It's a great pistol. The alloy finish has deteriorated, but not as much as I had expected. I certainly don't beat the gun but it will pick up marks fairly easily when compared to well-blued steel. I expect that if you were hard on the pistol it wouild look shabby fairly quickly but that shouldn't adversely affect the functioning. In terms of internal wear that has been minimal, limited to the loss of some finish where the rails rub. I ensure the pistol is clean and lubricated.
The blue stuff on an alloy frame is hard anodizing - an electro-chemical process which colors and hardens the surface of the aluminum and makes it much more wear resistant. It is so durable that it is used on racing bicycle rims and it takes a fair amount of use for the brake pads to visibly wear into it.
Aluminum is not a particularly tough metal, and does not take shock or flexing very well. So well worn alloy framed pistols usually show it by cracking their frame rails first. Most examples I've seen of this were Sigs, but the concept applies all over. Something like a Ruger P89 might never wear out, but look how oversized that frame is.
So, while I no longer own any centerfire alloy framed autos, I did buy a Beretta 87. I figure it is the torsion from muzzle rise that works the slide rails more than anything else, and the extremely light recoil of the 87 slide really isn't going to do much of anything to the rails.
Aluminum is not a particularly tough metal, and does not take shock or flexing very well. So well worn alloy framed pistols usually show it by cracking their frame rails first. Most examples I've seen of this were Sigs, but the concept applies all over. Something like a Ruger P89 might never wear out, but look how oversized that frame is.
So, while I no longer own any centerfire alloy framed autos, I did buy a Beretta 87. I figure it is the torsion from muzzle rise that works the slide rails more than anything else, and the extremely light recoil of the 87 slide really isn't going to do much of anything to the rails.
Thanks. Yes, probably anodized, but it's certainly none too durable...>
...in this case. I've found that even placing the 87T down on a hard surface can mark the fame/barrel shroud.
Mind you, I've been less than impressed with much of the current blueing on steel handguns, too. It seems that unless you are willing to pay for it, or buy older guns, you often get a distinctly dull and black blueing. It has none of the depth and lustre seen on many older guns. It also doesn't appear to be long wearing. I guess good blueing is an expensive process that is forgone in order to keep prices competitive.
...in this case. I've found that even placing the 87T down on a hard surface can mark the fame/barrel shroud.
Mind you, I've been less than impressed with much of the current blueing on steel handguns, too. It seems that unless you are willing to pay for it, or buy older guns, you often get a distinctly dull and black blueing. It has none of the depth and lustre seen on many older guns. It also doesn't appear to be long wearing. I guess good blueing is an expensive process that is forgone in order to keep prices competitive.
I had an alloy framed Star. The frame held up well enough but certain parts started to loosen, the ejector (I think it is) in particular. But that was a Star and anyhow, there aren't any more Stars. I also had at least two Colt Lightweight Commanders that were perfectly fine but I didn't shoot them to death. I always thought a Colt Lightweight Commander to be just about the perfect carry gun, by the way. The Star was laid out exactly the same but was smaller (and had no grip safety). Colt also had a lightweight Government Model .380 for a while, which was a perfect .380 in my mind. Compared to most other .380's, there was practically no recoil. More like a .22 and I'm not kidding.
Regarding the finish on guns, Colt had and may still have something called Ultimate Blue or words to that effect. It does look great but, as I was reminded, it shows scratches real good. Some guns actually do have a painted finish and some guns that have been used a lot have--none.
Regarding the finish on guns, Colt had and may still have something called Ultimate Blue or words to that effect. It does look great but, as I was reminded, it shows scratches real good. Some guns actually do have a painted finish and some guns that have been used a lot have--none.
Any concern over alloy is justified. Since the steel slide is much harder than the alloy frame, extensive shooting over time will increase wear. Applying a lubricant to the frame rails frequently should reduce friction and retard wear over time.
Curiosity yields evolution...satiety yields extinction.
Curiosity yields evolution...satiety yields extinction.
Sir William
New member
I have three Walther P1s. 1976, 1970 and 1975 dates of manufacture. One has been fed +P 9MMs. No wear or problems yet.
This is true, slides need to flex otherwise they would be to brittle.
Doogle I suspect your Beretta being a .22 is finished with a typeII anodizing process (this is the finish on maglite flashlights and ruger single action grip frames), this is not as tough or durable as typeIII hard anodizing but is generally considered better looking. typeIII is used on most centerfire alloy handguns and rifles and can be done in only 2 colors black and a greenish/gray it will then usually have some sort of teflon coating or clear coat applied over top to improve cosmetics.
typeIII is super tough, Surefire flashlights took a typeIII finished knurled flashlight body and used the knurling to "saw" thru an unfinished aluminum flashlight body, afterwards there were no significant blemishes to the hard anodized finish.
Aluminum has metal fatigue characteristics, which means whatever stress it gets it accumulates it. This is unlike steel, which doesn't have much of a memory. So eventually , AL alloy frames will break or crack.
Also, I find alloy and steel frames scratches easily. Making them look older quicker than plastic frames.
Also, I find alloy and steel frames scratches easily. Making them look older quicker than plastic frames.
The coating for anodized Al is Al2O3 (aluminum oxide) which is much harder than even the hardest steels. However, the oxide is still just a coating and extensive friction over time COULD wear it away. If the coating wears away over time and all that you are left is bare aluminum, frame wear will definitely increase beyond that point.
Curiosity yields evolution...satiety yields extinction.
Sure, aluminum has metal fatigue characteristics. Name me a metal that doesn't.
hpg, thousands? That would be a very low life expectancy indeed. My first gun would have been trashed in a year with that.
Tens of thousands. I believe Ernest Langdon said one of his had over 100K with only changes in springs (and cleanings, of course).
hpg, thousands? That would be a very low life expectancy indeed. My first gun would have been trashed in a year with that.
Tens of thousands. I believe Ernest Langdon said one of his had over 100K with only changes in springs (and cleanings, of course).